Roughbarked, or any one else for that matter, have you ever propagated Syncarpia Glomulifera (Turpentine)? If so what is the pre-treatment for seed? Is it the same as for hakea? I am assuming it is.
Where are you Longy? I’ve forgotten
++++++++++++++++++++++++
Maclean. Nth NSW coast.
Still raining. Strong wind blew over a variegated fig in a heavy cement pot. Broke the saucer. Bugger.
Crikey. Big falls now. I think this one could flood across the road. Da fun begins….
Sorry Anne, wrong thread there.
The plant isn’t mentioned in my propagation book.
Longy said:
Sorry Anne, wrong thread there.
The plant isn’t mentioned in my propagation book.
It used to be known as Syncarpia Laurifolia or something like that. Commonly called the Turpentine Tree
AnneS said:
Roughbarked, or any one else for that matter, have you ever propagated Syncarpia Glomulifera (Turpentine)? If so what is the pre-treatment for seed? Is it the same as for hakea? I am assuming it is.
When i read this title it sounded like a disease.
It has been classed as an environmental pest in Hawaii and other pacific islands.
http://www.hear.org/species/syncarpia_glomulifera/
like all Myrtaceae, the seed is easy to grow.
First get it out of the capsules and it will be able to be treated in the same fasion as Eucalypt or Callistemon seed.
Place some fruit that is mature in a paper bag and leave in a warm dry spot until there is a lot of seed falling out of the capsules. Sow this on top of the soil in individual pots and thin or sow in a mother pot and transplant.
Transplanting of all Myrtaceae is difficult but not impossible. Just be careful not to give the seedlings J roots as you transplant and keep the water up. Surprisingly most of Australia’s Myrtaceae species absoulutely will not germinate nor get through one day without copious amounts of water, yet manage to survive quite well on very little water once established.As with most seed the rule of thumb is to plant no deeper than the thickness of the seed.
So very fine seed needs to be sown on top of the mix with just enough of a sprinkle of dirt on top to hold in place.. or simply press it into the top of the mix.
Sensibly it does make sense to water these pots from he bottom up.. remembering also to drain them between waterings.
Damping off does affect Myrtaceae seedlings as easily as other plants.
bubba louie said:
AnneS said:
Roughbarked, or any one else for that matter, have you ever propagated Syncarpia Glomulifera (Turpentine)? If so what is the pre-treatment for seed? Is it the same as for hakea? I am assuming it is.
When i read this title it sounded like a disease.
That’s what I thought too :)
roughbarked said:
It has been classed as an environmental pest in Hawaii and other pacific islands.http://www.hear.org/species/syncarpia_glomulifera/
like all Myrtaceae, the seed is easy to grow.
First get it out of the capsules and it will be able to be treated in the same fasion as Eucalypt or Callistemon seed.Place some fruit that is mature in a paper bag and leave in a warm dry spot until there is a lot of seed falling out of the capsules. Sow this on top of the soil in individual pots and thin or sow in a mother pot and transplant.
Transplanting of all Myrtaceae is difficult but not impossible. Just be careful not to give the seedlings J roots as you transplant and keep the water up. Surprisingly most of Australia’s Myrtaceae species absoulutely will not germinate nor get through one day without copious amounts of water, yet manage to survive quite well on very little water once established.
I have pre-treated hakea successfully on numerous occasions so will follow the same procedure. I was contemplating direct sowing of the seed….any thoughts on whether that would be successful or not?
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
It has been classed as an environmental pest in Hawaii and other pacific islands.http://www.hear.org/species/syncarpia_glomulifera/
like all Myrtaceae, the seed is easy to grow.
First get it out of the capsules and it will be able to be treated in the same fasion as Eucalypt or Callistemon seed.Place some fruit that is mature in a paper bag and leave in a warm dry spot until there is a lot of seed falling out of the capsules. Sow this on top of the soil in individual pots and thin or sow in a mother pot and transplant.
Transplanting of all Myrtaceae is difficult but not impossible. Just be careful not to give the seedlings J roots as you transplant and keep the water up. Surprisingly most of Australia’s Myrtaceae species absoulutely will not germinate nor get through one day without copious amounts of water, yet manage to survive quite well on very little water once established.I have pre-treated hakea successfully on numerous occasions so will follow the same procedure. I was contemplating direct sowing of the seed….any thoughts on whether that would be successful or not?
What pre-treating of Hakea did you need to do?
Same dealie.. put in a paper bag and allow to dry.. the pods open naturally and the seed is easily flicked out with a thumbnail. Place this as any seed with a wing would land.. with the heavy part down.. just on top of the soil and a sprinkle of dust to hold it down.. and it will germinate in situ at this time of year as it does not need high tempertaures but does require moisture.
roughbarked said:
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
It has been classed as an environmental pest in Hawaii and other pacific islands.http://www.hear.org/species/syncarpia_glomulifera/
like all Myrtaceae, the seed is easy to grow.
First get it out of the capsules and it will be able to be treated in the same fasion as Eucalypt or Callistemon seed.Place some fruit that is mature in a paper bag and leave in a warm dry spot until there is a lot of seed falling out of the capsules. Sow this on top of the soil in individual pots and thin or sow in a mother pot and transplant.
Transplanting of all Myrtaceae is difficult but not impossible. Just be careful not to give the seedlings J roots as you transplant and keep the water up. Surprisingly most of Australia’s Myrtaceae species absoulutely will not germinate nor get through one day without copious amounts of water, yet manage to survive quite well on very little water once established.I have pre-treated hakea successfully on numerous occasions so will follow the same procedure. I was contemplating direct sowing of the seed….any thoughts on whether that would be successful or not?
What pre-treating of Hakea did you need to do?
Same dealie.. put in a paper bag and allow to dry.. the pods open naturally and the seed is easily flicked out with a thumbnail. Place this as any seed with a wing would land.. with the heavy part down.. just on top of the soil and a sprinkle of dust to hold it down.. and it will germinate in situ at this time of year as it does not need high tempertaures but does require moisture.
Actually I just put them on a tray and put them in the oven on a very low heat….just a bit quicker than the paper bag and I had good germination when I sowed the seed. Unfortunately on one occasion the 30 or so seedlings that I had growing dried out too much while I was away for a time, and died. Hoping for better luck with the current lot I have on the go.
Would like to give direct sowing a go my next lot.
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
AnneS said:I have pre-treated hakea successfully on numerous occasions so will follow the same procedure. I was contemplating direct sowing of the seed….any thoughts on whether that would be successful or not?
What pre-treating of Hakea did you need to do?
Same dealie.. put in a paper bag and allow to dry.. the pods open naturally and the seed is easily flicked out with a thumbnail. Place this as any seed with a wing would land.. with the heavy part down.. just on top of the soil and a sprinkle of dust to hold it down.. and it will germinate in situ at this time of year as it does not need high tempertaures but does require moisture.
Actually I just put them on a tray and put them in the oven on a very low heat….just a bit quicker than the paper bag and I had good germination when I sowed the seed. Unfortunately on one occasion the 30 or so seedlings that I had growing dried out too much while I was away for a time, and died. Hoping for better luck with the current lot I have on the go.
Would like to give direct sowing a go my next lot.
yes.. direct sowing works fine.. and .. you need less water. It is easier to keep a seedling alive where it found a place to put down roots than one which you broke roots trying to transplant to the site.
I have carried out direct seeding trials with both the NP&WS and Greening of Australia as well as Landcare groups.
In all situations as long as there was ample moisture provided, things worked perectly.
Far better results than from planting seedlings laboriously by hand or feeding them into the rip line from he back of a machine..
roughbarked said:
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:What pre-treating of Hakea did you need to do?
Same dealie.. put in a paper bag and allow to dry.. the pods open naturally and the seed is easily flicked out with a thumbnail. Place this as any seed with a wing would land.. with the heavy part down.. just on top of the soil and a sprinkle of dust to hold it down.. and it will germinate in situ at this time of year as it does not need high tempertaures but does require moisture.
Actually I just put them on a tray and put them in the oven on a very low heat….just a bit quicker than the paper bag and I had good germination when I sowed the seed. Unfortunately on one occasion the 30 or so seedlings that I had growing dried out too much while I was away for a time, and died. Hoping for better luck with the current lot I have on the go.
Would like to give direct sowing a go my next lot.
yes.. direct sowing works fine.. and .. you need less water. It is easier to keep a seedling alive where it found a place to put down roots than one which you broke roots trying to transplant to the site.
I have carried out direct seeding trials with both the NP&WS and Greening of Australia as well as Landcare groups.
Seed directly sown works best.. with Australian natives.
In all situations as long as there was ample moisture provided, things worked perectly.
Far better results than from planting seedlings laboriously by hand or feeding them into the rip line from he back of a machine..
Hmm I think it was 1991 when our little Greening of Australia group won an Australia day award.. for what we did with a few handfuls of seed. We called ourselves GAGA
OK so I can grow seeds into trees but I cannot get a sentence typed without a typo somewhere?
Bluddy’ell
I think it was me who invented the phrase “it’s my keyboard which makes the smelling pistakes!”
roughbarked said:
OK so I can grow seeds into trees but I cannot get a sentence typed without a typo somewhere?Bluddy’ell
I think it was me who invented the phrase “it’s my keyboard which makes the smelling pistakes!”
lol
With many natives.. smoke can assist germination. A bit tricky to set up as it actually means smoke in water vapour. However it does work in assisting germination of difficult species.
Some require heat to either remove them from their capsules.. unless you have a beak like a mix between pliers/end nippers…, or to actually help crack or soften the seed coat as in the case of Acacia species. This can be achieved with fire or more easily with hot water.. which solves two birds with the one stone.. um.. yeah.. you know what I meant.
Eremophila seeds .. now there’s a different proposition.
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
OK so I can grow seeds into trees but I cannot get a sentence typed without a typo somewhere?Bluddy’ell
I think it was me who invented the phrase “it’s my keyboard which makes the smelling pistakes!”
lol
yeah I know. funny but true. ;)
I just googled it when I thought about it and found millions of entries.. but when I first did it.. google didn’t exist .. and searches in Alta vista told me I was the one who first said it.You are in or near Nowra .. Is that correct AnneS?
Have you tried propagating the wild raspberry that grows up in Kangaroo Valley?
roughbarked said:
You are in or near Nowra .. Is that correct AnneS?Have you tried propagating the wild raspberry that grows up in Kangaroo Valley?
Yes near Nowra, and no I haven’t tried the wild raspberry. Come to think of it have never heard of it. I’ll have to check it out. Is it similar to a hardenbergia?
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
You are in or near Nowra .. Is that correct AnneS?Have you tried propagating the wild raspberry that grows up in Kangaroo Valley?
Yes near Nowra, and no I haven’t tried the wild raspberry. Come to think of it have never heard of it. I’ll have to check it out. Is it similar to a hardenbergia?
Actually just googled it. Looks good. I wonder where I can get hold of some…there is a wholesale native nursery near here. Might see if they have it at all. Would you believe though that we have just ordered some raspberries from diggers :)
AnneS said:
roughbarked said:
You are in or near Nowra .. Is that correct AnneS?Have you tried propagating the wild raspberry that grows up in Kangaroo Valley?
Yes near Nowra, and no I haven’t tried the wild raspberry. Come to think of it have never heard of it. I’ll have to check it out. Is it similar to a hardenbergia?
Look it is years since I was there back in the late 70’s but off the top of my head there are three species it could have been that I was eating there.. Rubus hillii, Rubus parvifolius and Rubus rosifolius.
All are propagatable via root divisions or cuttings, though of course seed will also work.roughbarked said:
As with most seed the rule of thumb is to plant no deeper than the thickness of the seed.So very fine seed needs to be sown on top of the mix with just enough of a sprinkle of dirt on top to hold in place.. or simply press it into the top of the mix.
Sensibly it does make sense to water these pots from he bottom up.. remembering also to drain them between waterings.
Damping off does affect Myrtaceae seedlings as easily as other plants.
So is it easier to grow them (natives) from cuttings? I have a melaleuca (I think ‘fulgens’) that we have been trying to make grow from cuttings. No success as yet and we have tried at least 10 times. The mother plant has grown too tall in the wrong spot. I am slowly reducing it’s height but I don’t want to lose the whole tree so I’m pruning carefully. It’s just the flower colour that makes it important to keep.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Annes.
pomolo said:
roughbarked said:
As with most seed the rule of thumb is to plant no deeper than the thickness of the seed.So very fine seed needs to be sown on top of the mix with just enough of a sprinkle of dirt on top to hold in place.. or simply press it into the top of the mix.
Sensibly it does make sense to water these pots from he bottom up.. remembering also to drain them between waterings.
Damping off does affect Myrtaceae seedlings as easily as other plants.
So is it easier to grow them (natives) from cuttings? I have a melaleuca (I think ‘fulgens’) that we have been trying to make grow from cuttings. No success as yet and we have tried at least 10 times. The mother plant has grown too tall in the wrong spot. I am slowly reducing it’s height but I don’t want to lose the whole tree so I’m pruning carefully. It’s just the flower colour that makes it important to keep.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Annes
Melaleuca fulgens is pretty when in bloom yes. Though I believe Melaleuca coccinea to be a stronger grower. Most of the melaleucas can be hacked right back and regrow easily. However this does not apply so easily to all of them.I occasionally cut a Melaleuca hedge back to get all the woody stuff out and It keeps on keeping on, in fact I can see at least one plant that needs the same treatment again.
Now as for propagation of Melaleuca.. grown from seed as easily as any of the Mytaceae family, the only problem being they are as tiny as miniature pins and needles so care needs to be exercised when transplanting them. As for cuttings, all plants will grow from a cutting if you get the conditions correct. The best wood to use for cuttings is the very soft growing tips. Keep them wet and in partial sun at first, then when they aren’t dead yet.., then you can move them into stronger sun just keep the water up until the cutting starts to grow.
This won’t work with the woody parts of the plant as easily though some species will strike with woodier cuttings.
pomolo said:
roughbarked said:
As with most seed the rule of thumb is to plant no deeper than the thickness of the seed.So very fine seed needs to be sown on top of the mix with just enough of a sprinkle of dirt on top to hold in place.. or simply press it into the top of the mix.
Sensibly it does make sense to water these pots from he bottom up.. remembering also to drain them between waterings.
Damping off does affect Myrtaceae seedlings as easily as other plants.
So is it easier to grow them (natives) from cuttings? I have a melaleuca (I think ‘fulgens’) that we have been trying to make grow from cuttings. No success as yet and we have tried at least 10 times. The mother plant has grown too tall in the wrong spot. I am slowly reducing it’s height but I don’t want to lose the whole tree so I’m pruning carefully. It’s just the flower colour that makes it important to keep.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Annes.
Not a problem cause it’s all related. I have successfully taken cuttings of callistemon, but nothing else so I would be interested to know too
roughbarked said:
pomolo said:
roughbarked said:
As with most seed the rule of thumb is to plant no deeper than the thickness of the seed.So very fine seed needs to be sown on top of the mix with just enough of a sprinkle of dirt on top to hold in place.. or simply press it into the top of the mix.
Sensibly it does make sense to water these pots from he bottom up.. remembering also to drain them between waterings.
Damping off does affect Myrtaceae seedlings as easily as other plants.
So is it easier to grow them (natives) from cuttings? I have a melaleuca (I think ‘fulgens’) that we have been trying to make grow from cuttings. No success as yet and we have tried at least 10 times. The mother plant has grown too tall in the wrong spot. I am slowly reducing it’s height but I don’t want to lose the whole tree so I’m pruning carefully. It’s just the flower colour that makes it important to keep.
Sorry for the hi-jacking Annes
Melaleuca fulgens is pretty when in bloom yes. Though I believe Melaleuca coccinea to be a stronger grower. Most of the melaleucas can be hacked right back and regrow easily. However this does not apply so easily to all of them.I occasionally cut a Melaleuca hedge back to get all the woody stuff out and It keeps on keeping on, in fact I can see at least one plant that needs the same treatment again.
Now as for propagation of Melaleuca.. grown from seed as easily as any of the Mytaceae family, the only problem being they are as tiny as miniature pins and needles so care needs to be exercised when transplanting them. As for cuttings, all plants will grow from a cutting if you get the conditions correct. The best wood to use for cuttings is the very soft growing tips. Keep them wet and in partial sun at first, then when they aren’t dead yet.., then you can move them into stronger sun just keep the water up until the cutting starts to grow.
This won’t work with the woody parts of the plant as easily though some species will strike with woodier cuttings.
Thanks for that. I will try all methods now.