Because…
bluegreen said:
Because…
It’s time :)
Happy Potter said:
bluegreen said:
Because…
It’s time :)
It is time to have finished grafting of many things but there are still a couple of weeks for slower to sprout trees like apples.
listening to the ABC this morning, live from the Roma St Gardens in Brisbane… sounds like a wonderful place. Might have to try and get down there when I’m next in town…
The rose bushes think the season is turning. I picked two red roses today. The other bushes are starting to make leaves. I’d better finish off the couple I didn’t finish pruning!
seems like an early spring season where I am too, but as always there is usually a cold blast just before the warm weather is in for sure.
Nothing like spring with frosts almost every morning.
I was late planting my broad beans but they are powering on. My snow peas have been trying all through the frosts and the pods got a bit damaged but they are powering away now.
And now I have put seeds in for 11 types of tomatoes and stowed them in the Little Greenhouse. This year I intend to grow tigerella, Periforme abruzzese, violet jasper, brown berry, brandy wine,black krim, Tommy toe, ananas noir, mortgage lifter, rouge de marmande, and grosse lisse. I’ve dumped in all the old seed I have been hoarding. Time for buying some fresh stuff next year. I should probably see about getting the seeds for capsicum and chillis sorted too.
Was up there pruning this
when I was told to bugger off and find my own spot.
and even long after I’d given up ‘cause it was a bit dark to be hanging out of trees with sharp stuff in hand, it was hanging out of the tree reminding me to bugger off.
Ha! Gorgeous!
not your traditional arboreal reptile… cracking shot though.
painmaster said:
not your traditional arboreal reptile… cracking shot though.
:) They often tree up during winter.
roughbarked said:
painmaster said:
not your traditional arboreal reptile… cracking shot though.
:) They often tree up during winter.
I learn something new!
painmaster said:
roughbarked said:
painmaster said:
not your traditional arboreal reptile… cracking shot though.
:) They often tree up during winter.
I learn something new!
:) pleased to be of assistance.
Good god, the gardening Australia grafting rubbish tonight.
Anyone following that advice is bound to fail.
roughbarked said:
Good god, the gardening Australia grafting rubbish tonight.
Anyone following that advice is bound to fail.
I watched that with some anticipation. Perhaps I should have used more trepidation?
Wasn’t that impressed with the philosopher and his thoughts of a garden either…
painmaster said:
roughbarked said:
Good god, the gardening Australia grafting rubbish tonight.
Anyone following that advice is bound to fail.
I watched that with some anticipation. Perhaps I should have used more trepidation?
Wasn’t that impressed with the philosopher and his thoughts of a garden either…
He did cover a few grafting methods but he really should have used someone else’s hands and tools to display the methodology and techniques and actual skill. He was using blunt knife with lack of skill and technique. He barged/blundered along and did it anyway like a news reader continually repeating pronunciation errors without repairing them.
Truthfully it id look like someone had once told him about a handful of grafting methods at some uni course but had never explained to him that his interpretation was all wrong.
roughbarked said:
painmaster said:
roughbarked said:
Good god, the gardening Australia grafting rubbish tonight.
Anyone following that advice is bound to fail.
I watched that with some anticipation. Perhaps I should have used more trepidation?
Wasn’t that impressed with the philosopher and his thoughts of a garden either…
He did cover a few grafting methods but he really should have used someone else’s hands and tools to display the methodology and techniques and actual skill. He was using blunt knife with lack of skill and technique. He barged/blundered along and did it anyway like a news reader continually repeating pronunciation errors without repairing them.
Truthfully it id look like someone had once told him about a handful of grafting methods at some uni course but had never explained to him that his interpretation was all wrong.
On behalf of the other three members of this forum, I reckon all of us would love to see you showing off some of your grafting skills one day…
painmaster said:
roughbarked said:
painmaster said:I watched that with some anticipation. Perhaps I should have used more trepidation?
Wasn’t that impressed with the philosopher and his thoughts of a garden either…
He did cover a few grafting methods but he really should have used someone else’s hands and tools to display the methodology and techniques and actual skill. He was using blunt knife with lack of skill and technique. He barged/blundered along and did it anyway like a news reader continually repeating pronunciation errors without repairing them.
Truthfully it id look like someone had once told him about a handful of grafting methods at some uni course but had never explained to him that his interpretation was all wrong.
On behalf of the other three members of this forum, I reckon all of us would love to see you showing off some of your grafting skills one day…
We’d better hurry that up, the doctards reckon it won’t be much longer.
single whip and tongue
This is a whip and tongue graft.. tie it up properly and it will callous together and be growing by spring. I do these in July, August and September if the trees are late starters.
This and other budding/grafting methods can also be carried out on non deciduous plants as well as deciduous plants by a method known as green grafting.. Nothing is different apart from the fact that the material is green and growing rather than dormant at the time.
This is particularly important with evergreen trees such as citrus.
Double whip and tongue
I mucked this one up a bit because I tried to recut a single whip as a double whip to show it. However if tied properly this will still work.
The idea of the double whip is to seal the ends of the graft cut under the bark. Done properly it gives a greater surface area of connection and less attrition. It shouldn’t be required other than in rough conditions where the bud-wood doesn’t match so well and the speed requirements sometimes need a rougher hand. What it is good for.. is tricky grafts that need as much contact of surface area as possible. It does work better where wind is going to cause problems.
Tying properly is another thing and probably the most important. Not sure if I have this all set to public viewing but try this out.https://www.flickr.com/photos/roughbarked/albums/72157624848810727
There was an old Italian who told me this:
The farmer treated the grafter like royalty:
Gave him the table and the food and the wine. The tyer was given a bottle of water where he sat under a tree. After a while the person tying the grafts got sick of this. So, every second graft, he moved the graft after he tied it.
The next year when they came back.. The farmer said “whata da fucka you do?
The grafter said. “don’t know, I did everything propely, ask the tyer.” When the farmer questioned h,. he said “ We both did what we thought was our job but you gave the grafter the table and the wine.. after lunch each day, he was pissed.”
So after that, the grafter had to sit under the tree and drink water too.
When grafting or budding, it is important to make each cut with a single swipe of a sharp knife. No buggerising around with a blunt knife making double and triple attempts at a clean cut. Matching the cuts is important in that you do need to align the cambium layers accurately.
When assembling the parts of each and every grafting or budding operation, one needs to pay attention to not bruising the material by again making clean, smooth matching cuts so that things slide together like they want to fit like a glove.
It does not matter that the scion matches the stock perfectly, this is only a desirable though it is also not only an aesthetic, it does matter that at least one section of the cambium matches. It matters even more if both sections do.
What matters most:
The cambiums need to align correctly.
The cuts need to be smooth and accurate.
One needs to cut so that the whole bud section is intact.
One needs to do everything correctly when using secateurs and knife in order to not bruise or damage the budwood/scionwood.
One needs to tie the tape like a watchmaker keeps a hairspring he is working on..flat, round and concentric.
Yight and fitting corectly, tie from the bottom up so tha each overlap sends the water downwards. Do not tie it backwards or double tie unless the need to leave buds out obviates this.
roughbarked said:
When grafting or budding, it is important to make each cut with a single swipe of a sharp knife. No buggerising around with a blunt knife making double and triple attempts at a clean cut. Matching the cuts is important in that you do need to align the cambium layers accurately.When assembling the parts of each and every grafting or budding operation, one needs to pay attention to not bruising the material by again making clean, smooth matching cuts so that things slide together like they want to fit like a glove.
It does not matter that the scion matches the stock perfectly, this is only a desirable though it is also not only an aesthetic, it does matter that at least one section of the cambium matches. It matters even more if both sections do.
What matters most:
The cambiums need to align correctly.
The cuts need to be smooth and accurate.
One needs to cut so that the whole bud section is intact.
One needs to do everything correctly when using secateurs and knife in order to not bruise or damage the budwood/scionwood.
One needs to tie the tape like a watchmaker keeps a hairspring he is working on..flat, round and concentric.
Yight and fitting corectly, tie from the bottom up so tha each overlap sends the water downwards. Do not tie it backwards or double tie unless the need to leave buds out obviates this.
Hope you can decipher my typing in the dark.
Go back to iView and see how the presenter showed Australian gardeners how to graft. Watch hm botching his cuts with the wrong knife which was blunt. Watch him shoving a T bud into a cut that should have told him, this tree isn’t ready for this method. Shoving a badly cut bud into a tight bark with minimal sap flow and not only expecting it to go in without bruising, let alone not knowing that it will never work, also showing it on TV. The serious shit is that he said, this will work.
No.
Even further. you do not cut the budwood/scion wood complete with bad bruising by secateurs.
and I do mean that he did nothing that suggested he knew anything about grafting other than having seen someone do it while he was looking up porn on his iPhone.
In this, it is visble that though I didn’t get both cambiums to match, There has been a match up one side and across the top.
This will still work and become a strong leading branch if all competition from the rootstock is kept at bay until it establishes itself as the leader.
roughbarked said:
In this, it is visble that though I didn’t get both cambiums to match, There has been a match up one side and across the top.
This will still work and become a strong leading branch if all competition from the rootstock is kept at bay until it establishes itself as the leader.
OOps, wrong photo, fixed.
roughbarked said:
This will still work and become a strong leading branch if all competition from the rootstock is kept at bay until it establishes itself as the leader.
After all, even if you do buy a grafted tree rather than doing it yourself or indeed after having a grafter in to work your trees over.. maintenance is everything.
A flimsy graft or bud has been put on a hopefully strong rootstock. One needs to keep the tree healthy and reduce but not destroy the rootstock growth while also reducing wind and sun effect upon the desired grafted leading branch.
Once you have a leader then you can force the rootstock into subliminal dormancy.
painmaster said:
On behalf of the other three members of this forum, I reckon all of us would love to see you showing off some of your grafting skills one day…
For this part, I’d have to get someone else to hold the camera or photograph other professionals at work. Some of my photos previously linked do show the hands of that old Italian bloke, mentioned and pictured.
Then:
The fact of primary importance about T budding is the aspect of freshness.. it is to be noted that done properly, the need for accurate tying of the graft is renedered to the position of not so crucial. By freshness, the bark needs to lift easily, exposing slippery wood underneath. If the bark is tight and you have to work at tearing it off.. Forget trying to do T buds or indeed, any grafting.
In the pursuit of covering the whole issue:
In the case of T budding, though some species can handle leaving the wood under the bark of the bud, these can also be chip budded rather than bothering with doing a T bud,. The main purpose of any grafting method is to get a good union.
Therefore when T budding, a bud selected to slide into such fresh sap flowing rootstock, should be the same. ie: fresh sap flowing well enough to slip the sliced bud section off the wood of the bud stick used.
Very informative roughbarked.
How do I say this? How is your health? Your comment suggests you don’t expect to be around much longer :(
bluegreen said:
Very informative roughbarked.How do I say this? How is your health? Your comment suggests you don’t expect to be around much longer :(
Health is currently not the best. Hope I can turn it around.
roughbarked said:
bluegreen said:
Very informative roughbarked.How do I say this? How is your health? Your comment suggests you don’t expect to be around much longer :(
Health is currently not the best. Hope I can turn it around.
I hope so too.
roughbarked said:
painmaster said:
roughbarked said:He did cover a few grafting methods but he really should have used someone else’s hands and tools to display the methodology and techniques and actual skill. He was using blunt knife with lack of skill and technique. He barged/blundered along and did it anyway like a news reader continually repeating pronunciation errors without repairing them.
Truthfully it id look like someone had once told him about a handful of grafting methods at some uni course but had never explained to him that his interpretation was all wrong.
On behalf of the other three members of this forum, I reckon all of us would love to see you showing off some of your grafting skills one day…
We’d better hurry that up, the doctards reckon it won’t be much longer.
single whip and tongue
This is a whip and tongue graft.. tie it up properly and it will callous together and be growing by spring. I do these in July, August and September if the trees are late starters.
This and other budding/grafting methods can also be carried out on non deciduous plants as well as deciduous plants by a method known as green grafting.. Nothing is different apart from the fact that the material is green and growing rather than dormant at the time.
This is particularly important with evergreen trees such as citrus.
nice one.
roughbarked said:
roughbarked said:
When grafting or budding, it is important to make each cut with a single swipe of a sharp knife. No buggerising around with a blunt knife making double and triple attempts at a clean cut. Matching the cuts is important in that you do need to align the cambium layers accurately.When assembling the parts of each and every grafting or budding operation, one needs to pay attention to not bruising the material by again making clean, smooth matching cuts so that things slide together like they want to fit like a glove.
It does not matter that the scion matches the stock perfectly, this is only a desirable though it is also not only an aesthetic, it does matter that at least one section of the cambium matches. It matters even more if both sections do.
What matters most:
The cambiums need to align correctly.
The cuts need to be smooth and accurate.
One needs to cut so that the whole bud section is intact.
One needs to do everything correctly when using secateurs and knife in order to not bruise or damage the budwood/scionwood.
One needs to tie the tape like a watchmaker keeps a hairspring he is working on..flat, round and concentric.
Yight and fitting corectly, tie from the bottom up so tha each overlap sends the water downwards. Do not tie it backwards or double tie unless the need to leave buds out obviates this.
Hope you can decipher my typing in the dark.
I’ve got a light on…
roughbarked said:
bluegreen said:
Very informative roughbarked.How do I say this? How is your health? Your comment suggests you don’t expect to be around much longer :(
Health is currently not the best. Hope I can turn it around.
Thanks Roughy and sorry to hear you are not the best. None of us are as young as we once were… Hopefully you’ll be with us for a little while longer.
