its time to plant these in temperate areas – you’ve got until july to finish.

i found that strawbs grow here in the shade of the citrus trees – so i will be extending my crop of tiogas and hokowasis to the shady side of the trees. i think they need lots of organic matter but i’m not sure of their more specific fertiliser needs. they love seaweed folient spray.

this is my raspberry jungle. i’ve never done anything with them and they have never produced any fruit. a few questions.
- can i transplant them now?
- do i need roots or can i just plant last year canes in the soil?

any hints much appreciated. thanks

are rasberries sold as bare rooted plants? I would transplant them mid winter if so, with roots. But I suppose you could try striking some cuttings now?

pepe said:

its time to plant these in temperate areas – you’ve got until july to finish.

i found that strawbs grow here in the shade of the citrus trees – so i will be extending my crop of tiogas and hokowasis to the shady side of the trees. i think they need lots of organic matter but i’m not sure of their more specific fertiliser needs. they love seaweed folient spray.

this is my raspberry jungle. i’ve never done anything with them and they have never produced any fruit. a few questions.
- can i transplant them now?
- do i need roots or can i just plant last year canes in the soil?

any hints much appreciated. thanks

yes .. strawbs can grow in shade but fruiting is another matter. Any organic matter will help strawbs.. they munch it rapidly. Cow sheep and horse manure are particular faves. They really do need a bed in the open that is raised and nutrient rich.

I once had a drum of Maxicrop seaweed multiple concentrate.. yes it was like glue almost.. It actually lasted me twenty years before the bottom rotted out and I had to make use of the last of it by removing it to other containers.. It cost me $54 in 1978 and lasted until around 2000.

Anyway.. when it was new and full, my toddler son.. who by then was approx two and maybe a half.. rocked the drum by standing next to it and pushing the top.. when I had left the cap off. This resulted in a small amount of splashing from the sloshing can.. and yes he was strong for his age.. and his diet of watermelon, oranges, passionfruit and tomatoes(well, that’s what grew where I hosed his nappies).. Anyway.. at that spot.. the strawbs actually grew fourfold compared to their further away cousins.

Raspberries

the old canes are useless and must be cleared away. The second year canes are where you get the fruit. Thus.. this must be considered when pruning.. remove all except those which have just finished their first year of growth, and remove these after they have finished fruiting . the roots are what you need to transplant.. unless you are willing to attempt to grow from cuttings which are not transplantable untill they grow roots.

bluegreen said:

are rasberries sold as bare rooted plants? I would transplant them mid winter if so, with roots. But I suppose you could try striking some cuttings now?

Cuttings generally do not work in winter unless you can supply bottom heat.

Cuttings work in spring. Especially if you apply heat and moisture to the bases of the cuttings.. in a friable medium for a few weeks before you wish to plant them out.

This is the time to plant raspberries.. as was said.. “we have until July”. No. Raspberries are not available in the superstore that shades the sky.. as bare rooted. However nurseries do wholesale them bare rooted. yes.

the old canes are useless and must be cleared away. The second year canes are where you get the fruit. Thus.. this must be considered when pruning.. remove all except those which have just finished their first year of growth, and remove these after they have finished fruiting .
—
last year’s growth with roots ??
pepe does a head spin. give me a day and i’ll see what i can find.
yes i will clear the rest away if i can.
no flowers anywhere that i can see, altho they flowered in summer – just didn’t fruit.
the stems are purple – are there varieties ? – or are raspberries just one type?

i’m confident with strawbs – i tried in full sun and they were FRAZZLED in the heat.
so the shade of citrus will be ok for fruiting – or as ok as it can be in a semidesert.
i bought 7×20 ltr maxicrop for $70 each in 1975. i’m still using it.

i’ll look for bare rooted vines in the nursery BG – but this is an exercise in tidying up the wild raspberry corner. i will plant them on a neighbours fence – where they will never get out of control again – whilst i’m still kicking. hopefully.

roughbarked said:

pepe said:

its time to plant these in temperate areas – you’ve got until july to finish.

i found that strawbs grow here in the shade of the citrus trees – so i will be extending my crop of tiogas and hokowasis to the shady side of the trees. i think they need lots of organic matter but i’m not sure of their more specific fertiliser needs. they love seaweed folient spray.

this is my raspberry jungle. i’ve never done anything with them and they have never produced any fruit. a few questions.
- can i transplant them now?
- do i need roots or can i just plant last year canes in the soil?

any hints much appreciated. thanks

yes .. strawbs can grow in shade but fruiting is another matter. Any organic matter will help strawbs.. they munch it rapidly. Cow sheep and horse manure are particular faves. They really do need a bed in the open that is raised and nutrient rich.

I once had a drum of Maxicrop seaweed multiple concentrate.. yes it was like glue almost.. It actually lasted me twenty years before the bottom rotted out and I had to make use of the last of it by removing it to other containers.. It cost me $54 in 1978 and lasted until around 2000.

Anyway.. when it was new and full, my toddler son.. who by then was approx two and maybe a half.. rocked the drum by standing next to it and pushing the top.. when I had left the cap off. This resulted in a small amount of splashing from the sloshing can.. and yes he was strong for his age.. and his diet of watermelon, oranges, passionfruit and tomatoes(well, that’s what grew where I hosed his nappies).. Anyway.. at that spot.. the strawbs actually grew fourfold compared to their further away cousins.

Raspberries

the old canes are useless and must be cleared away. The second year canes are where you get the fruit. Thus.. this must be considered when pruning.. remove all except those which have just finished their first year of growth, and remove these after they have finished fruiting . the roots are what you need to transplant.. unless you are willing to attempt to grow from cuttings which are not transplantable untill they grow roots.

Would your raspberry info be true for q’land low chill berries as well RB? I have my first plant in the ground. It’s been in 10mths and we had berrier from it last year. Since then it has 4/5 new canes but I haven’t touched the original one. Do I cut it away?

a couple new thoughts
- raspberries need water – that’s why mine haven’t fruited. so they can’t go on the neighbours fence – zero water.
can you plant strawbs and rasps in land that just had a spud crop i wonder ?
- and its a windy site too – but that wouldn’t matter – would it ?

bbl

somehow i don’t think these are good examples of rooted one year old growth – ie plantable raspberry canes – but these are my first examples

hopefully i can get better canes as i clean up.

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

Raspberries

the old canes are useless and must be cleared away. The second year canes are where you get the fruit. Thus.. this must be considered when pruning.. remove all except those which have just finished their first year of growth, and remove these after they have finished fruiting . the roots are what you need to transplant.. unless you are willing to attempt to grow from cuttings which are not transplantable untill they grow roots.

Would your raspberry info be true for q’land low chill berries as well RB? I have my first plant in the ground. It’s been in 10mths and we had berrier from it last year. Since then it has 4/5 new canes but I haven’t touched the original one. Do I cut it away?

The same advice applies everywhere. Raspberries will fruit only on second year canes. They may fruit in both spring and late summer early autumn.

Third year canes should be removed to allow the new growth a chance to get light and to reduce the harbouring of disease.

roughbarked said:

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

Raspberries

the old canes are useless and must be cleared away. The second year canes are where you get the fruit. Thus.. this must be considered when pruning.. remove all except those which have just finished their first year of growth, and remove these after they have finished fruiting . the roots are what you need to transplant.. unless you are willing to attempt to grow from cuttings which are not transplantable untill they grow roots.

Would your raspberry info be true for q’land low chill berries as well RB? I have my first plant in the ground. It’s been in 10mths and we had berrier from it last year. Since then it has 4/5 new canes but I haven’t touched the original one. Do I cut it away?

The same advice applies everywhere. Raspberries will fruit only on second year canes. They may fruit in both spring and late summer early autumn.

Third year canes should be removed to allow the new growth a chance to get light and to reduce the harbouring of disease.

Many thanks for that RB.

i had to google raspberry and even there the info is indicative only

- there are varieties including the autumn flowering ‘heritage’ for warmer districts
- certified root stock are available from nurseries
- they don’t like western sun and therefore my proposed locale is unfortunate – being the western wall of the shed.

mine survived in direct competition with budlejas – no water – record drought.
umm – no thorns but i wonder what variety i’ve got.

i have to remove the existing raspberry jungle so i will proceed as planned.

these are the first canes i have planted out. i’m presuming they are second year canes ready for fruiting – but i’m unsure

pepe said:

these are the first canes i have planted out. i’m presuming they are second year canes ready for fruiting – but i’m unsure

I hope you keep telling us about your raspberries, Pepe. I’m learning from you because I don’t know anything about them.

pomolo said:

pepe said:

these are the first canes i have planted out. i’m presuming they are second year canes ready for fruiting – but i’m unsure

I hope you keep telling us about your raspberries, Pepe. I’m learning from you because I don’t know anything about them.

We’ve ordered some from diggers…so I will learning too. Then again suppose I could just ask me mum. She used to grow them in an old bathtub….but she lives in a colder climate than I do…her raspberries were fantastic. She gave me some canes… but I took too long to get them in the ground and they died. :(

AnneS said:

pomolo said:

pepe said:

these are the first canes i have planted out. i’m presuming they are second year canes ready for fruiting – but i’m unsure

I hope you keep telling us about your raspberries, Pepe. I’m learning from you because I don’t know anything about them.

We’ve ordered some from diggers…so I will learning too. Then again suppose I could just ask me mum. She used to grow them in an old bathtub….but she lives in a colder climate than I do…her raspberries were fantastic. She gave me some canes… but I took too long to get them in the ground and they died. :(

Life long dream of mine………to grow raspberries

Did she get much out of just one bathtub Anne?

I’ll be interested in this thread too, I have 2 surviving raspberry canes from ones I planted last year.

I grew mine on the eastern side of a western fence.. and they did well.

orchid40 said:

I’ll be interested in this thread too, I have 2 surviving raspberry canes from ones I planted last year.

you, me and pomolo are all interested amateurs – now we need some experts.

yes RB – the east facing side of a fence would be best.
however its best for everything – so my east facing fences are crowded. i have grown successful sweetpeas, pumpkin and spuds on the west facing fence i’m forced to plant the raspberries on.

i’m going to dig an irrigation trench along the length of the raspberry trellis and fill it with pigeon poo. so fertility, water and sun should be abundant. just a wee problem of wind left.

ok raspberry fans – here’s what i’m doing -

1st photo from left – 2nd year canes – 2nd yr canes with roots – 1st year canes with roots
2nd photo – 1st yr canes closeup
3rd photo – 2nd year canes with roots (these are the ones i’m planting in the hope they will produce fruit this year ???)

questions
- am i right about the above?
- can i plant the first year rooted canes for next year’s root stock ?
- can i use the second year canes without roots for cuttings ?
thanks

i’ve been googling – and the raspberry canes you buy/plant spend most their energy growing upwards and sideways with branches in their first year. you nip off the top at trellis level and then tie the branches along the trellis line – these branches produce the berries in the second year. it sounds simple but its actually a bush and pete c. talks about packaging large quantities of branches together and you’re spose to plant 3 canes per hole.

with that in mind i have left the last third of the jungle where it was against the north and east facing fences. i trimmed the deadwood and strung the branches along the fence. now if i fertilise and water – these established brambles are my best chance of getting fruit this year.

pepe said:

i’ve been googling – and the raspberry canes you buy/plant spend most their energy growing upwards and sideways with branches in their first year. you nip off the top at trellis level and then tie the branches along the trellis line – these branches produce the berries in the second year. it sounds simple but its actually a bush and pete c. talks about packaging large quantities of branches together and you’re spose to plant 3 canes per hole.

with that in mind i have left the last third of the jungle where it was against the north and east facing fences. i trimmed the deadwood and strung the branches along the fence. now if i fertilise and water – these established brambles are my best chance of getting fruit this year.

OK. I got that. I bought my plant (one cane) in flower last year. We had about a dozen berries off that. Now there are about 6 extra canes and succers breaking the surface of the soil about 30cm from the original plant. What do you reckon I should do with them Pepe?

pepe said:

i’ve been googling – and the raspberry canes you buy/plant spend most their energy growing upwards and sideways with branches in their first year. you nip off the top at trellis level and then tie the branches along the trellis line – these branches produce the berries in the second year. it sounds simple but its actually a bush and pete c. talks about packaging large quantities of branches together and you’re spose to plant 3 canes per hole.

with that in mind i have left the last third of the jungle where it was against the north and east facing fences. i trimmed the deadwood and strung the branches along the fence. now if i fertilise and water – these established brambles are my best chance of getting fruit this year.

Sounds good.. ;)

OK. I got that. I bought my plant (one cane) in flower last year. We had about a dozen berries off that. Now there are about 6 extra canes and succers breaking the surface of the soil about 30cm from the original plant. What do you reckon I should do with them Pepe?
——-
g’day pomolo.
i found my mother plant in the middle of the jungle and i have left it with about four, nice, thick, green canes pointing upwards. i suggest you do the same with any shoots directly off the original root.

with suckers your choice is to dig them up and place them against the fenceline or just tie their long runners back to the fence/trellis.

remember tho’ i actually am just learning like you.

pepe said:

OK. I got that. I bought my plant (one cane) in flower last year. We had about a dozen berries off that. Now there are about 6 extra canes and succers breaking the surface of the soil about 30cm from the original plant. What do you reckon I should do with them Pepe?
——-
g’day pomolo.
i found my mother plant in the middle of the jungle and i have left it with about four, nice, thick, green canes pointing upwards. i suggest you do the same with any shoots directly off the original root.

with suckers your choice is to dig them up and place them against the fenceline or just tie their long runners back to the fence/trellis.

remember tho’ i actually am just learning like you.

I’ll have to build a fence becuse mine are planted out in the open. I know you’re only learning too but RB has just given you 10/10 so that’s good enough for me.

I’ll have to build a fence becuse mine are planted out in the open. I know you’re only learning too but RB has just given you 10/10 so that’s good enough for me.
—-
without a trellis you get a jungle – that much i know LOL.
ask mr p for two posts and 3 wires strung between them – height 1 metre.

I plan to get some raspberry canes this spring. But I’m confsed about the ‘ whats a cane and whats a sucker ‘ thing ? I read that suckers have to be cut off.
How do you tell between the good canes and the suckers??

I have this visual of my planned raspberry patch, with coloured ribbons tied on to the trellis. Green for first year, red for 2 nd…

Happy Potter said:

I plan to get some raspberry canes this spring. But I’m confsed about the ‘ whats a cane and whats a sucker ‘ thing ? I read that suckers have to be cut off.
How do you tell between the good canes and the suckers?? I have this visual of my planned raspberry patch, with coloured ribbons tied on to the trellis. Green for first year, red for 2 nd…

canes and suckers are the same only the sucker is growing and the cane has been pulled out to transplant. read this whilst having your drink LOL

http://permaculturesouthernhighlands.info/journal/raspberry.htm

pepe said:

I’ll have to build a fence becuse mine are planted out in the open. I know you’re only learning too but RB has just given you 10/10 so that’s good enough for me.
—-
without a trellis you get a jungle – that much i know LOL.
ask mr p for two posts and 3 wires strung between them – height 1 metre.

Your word is law thanks Pep.

Happy Potter said:

I plan to get some raspberry canes this spring. But I’m confsed about the ‘ whats a cane and whats a sucker ‘ thing ? I read that suckers have to be cut off.
How do you tell between the good canes and the suckers??

I have this visual of my planned raspberry patch, with coloured ribbons tied on to the trellis. Green for first year, red for 2 nd…

Now that’s a thought. I might try the ribbons.

pepe said:

Happy Potter said:

I plan to get some raspberry canes this spring. But I’m confsed about the ‘ whats a cane and whats a sucker ‘ thing ? I read that suckers have to be cut off.
How do you tell between the good canes and the suckers?? I have this visual of my planned raspberry patch, with coloured ribbons tied on to the trellis. Green for first year, red for 2 nd…

canes and suckers are the same only the sucker is growing and the cane has been pulled out to transplant. read this whilst having your drink LOL

http://permaculturesouthernhighlands.info/journal/raspberry.htm

Thanks for that site Peps , it has lots of info thats’s not on other sites.
The glass of red is going down very nicely :)

pepe said:

Happy Potter said:

I plan to get some raspberry canes this spring. But I’m confsed about the ‘ whats a cane and whats a sucker ‘ thing ? I read that suckers have to be cut off.
How do you tell between the good canes and the suckers?? I have this visual of my planned raspberry patch, with coloured ribbons tied on to the trellis. Green for first year, red for 2 nd…

canes and suckers are the same only the sucker is growing and the cane has been pulled out to transplant. read this whilst having your drink LOL

http://permaculturesouthernhighlands.info/journal/raspberry.htm

Having read that I know we have to have posts and wires. I might try planting the suckers because I can. Hopefully it will save me having to buy more plants.

Having read that I know we have to have posts and wires. I might try planting the suckers because I can. Hopefully it will save me having to buy more plants.
——————————-
i’ve managed to end up with about 60 plants. 30 existing and 30 newly planted.

its simple (i think) to tell 1st from 2nd from 3rd year canes. third year canes are brown and dead. second year canes are thick (as in pencil or finger), green and robust. first year canes are green and string thin.

its true that first year canes grow long (say 2 metres) and they bend over allowing their tip to grow into the ground. if you pull that tip out it has roots, but the metre of cane attached to it has all its leaves upside down – i.e. growing downwards .

pepe said:

Having read that I know we have to have posts and wires. I might try planting the suckers because I can. Hopefully it will save me having to buy more plants.
——————————-
i’ve managed to end up with about 60 plants. 30 existing and 30 newly planted.

its simple (i think) to tell 1st from 2nd from 3rd year canes. third year canes are brown and dead. second year canes are thick (as in pencil or finger), green and robust. first year canes are green and string thin.

its true that first year canes grow long (say 2 metres) and they bend over allowing their tip to grow into the ground. if you pull that tip out it has roots, but the metre of cane attached to it has all its leaves upside down – i.e. growing downwards .

My suckers seem to be coming from the roots of the mother plant. If I take those plants and re plant elsewhere I wonder if more suckers will grow again. I am trying to keep the plant neat and uncluttered so the suckers do need to be removed. What do you reckon Pepe or Roughbarked?

My suckers seem to be coming from the roots of the mother plant. If I take those plants and re plant elsewhere I wonder if more suckers will grow again. I am trying to keep the plant neat and uncluttered so the suckers do need to be removed. What do you reckon Pepe or Roughbarked?
—————
i have just cleared up an area of about 4m square – all of it emanating from a single raspberry planted about 4 years old. as far as i could tell it has not spread by root – only by long branches arching over and reshooting in the soil.
you might have a different variety pomolo.

pepe said:

My suckers seem to be coming from the roots of the mother plant. If I take those plants and re plant elsewhere I wonder if more suckers will grow again. I am trying to keep the plant neat and uncluttered so the suckers do need to be removed. What do you reckon Pepe or Roughbarked?
—————
i have just cleared up an area of about 4m square – all of it emanating from a single raspberry planted about 4 years old. as far as i could tell it has not spread by root – only by long branches arching over and reshooting in the soil.
you might have a different variety pomolo.

Mine has to be different because it’s a low chill type for out sub tropical climate. I’ve only had it for a year and all canes are coming from the original plant. The suckers, on the other hand, don’t have canes as yet. Maybe they will happen soon. I will just keep watch and take steps as I see fit.

this is how my raspberry corner looks at the end of pruning.
it once covered the ground – so long canes have been woven amongst the fence.
i haven’t grown successful raspberries before so any advice welcome

oh – i had a bonfire last night – that’s my biochar for this year’s spuds (self hijacking now)

pepe said:

this is how my raspberry corner looks at the end of pruning.
it once covered the ground – so long canes have been woven amongst the fence.
i haven’t grown successful raspberries before so any advice welcome

oh – i had a bonfire last night – that’s my biochar for this year’s spuds (self hijacking now)

Oh that looks great now. Heaps cleaner. Will the chooks bother the growing canes ?

Oh that looks great now. Heaps cleaner. Will the chooks bother the growing canes ?
—————-
nope the growing canes are ok
- the fruit is not safe i bet – i haven’t had any fruit yet myself.