The inability of my present camera to do what I want has made me wonder. If you were to design a best possible camera for your needs, what would it be like?

Limitations of my present camera are:

• heavy
• big time delay between pressing button and taking photo
• won’t focus at night (even though during the autofocus process the subject momentarily appears sharp).
• won’t time-expose for longer than 1 second
• at night, want the autofocus light left on during photograph – camera switches it off
• dozens of useless fricking modes
• (also an extreme annoyance is switching between wrong photography modes when on “auto”)
• will focus to 0.1 mm precision on something small only at a distance of < 2 cm or > 2 metres, not in between.
• etc.

Some approaches to an ideal camera might include.

• Catadioptric optics for large aperture minimum weight. (big reflector + small lens).
• Fresnel lens for minimum weight and minimum chromatic dispersion.
• Simultaneous UV and IR illumination at night with low-light adaptation for fast full colour night images that don’t disturb the subject.
• Strapped to head with motion sensor to take multiple zoom photos only while the head it still.
• Sound recording separate to photos but synchronisable to them.
• Auto-delete of bad shots and unwanted parts of sound recording.
• Trail cam type sensor to detect heat at night and movement during the day.
• Simultaneous active and passive focus.
• Fast. Time between activation and photograph measured in milliseconds.
• Auto-correct colours after photo taken.
• Tiny internal gyroscope combines with Registax stacking to eliminate camera motion for long exposures.
• Infinite depth of field is the default, dispenses with focus problems completely.
• Auto-detect subject movement and adjust by shortening exposure time.
• Cost < $100.

What’s your ideal camera?

mollwollfumble said:

The inability of my present camera to do what I want has made me wonder. If you were to design a best possible camera for your needs, what would it be like?

Limitations of my present camera are:

• heavy
• big time delay between pressing button and taking photo
• won’t focus at night (even though during the autofocus process the subject momentarily appears sharp).
• won’t time-expose for longer than 1 second
• at night, want the autofocus light left on during photograph – camera switches it off
• dozens of useless fricking modes
• (also an extreme annoyance is switching between wrong photography modes when on “auto”)
• will focus to 0.1 mm precision on something small only at a distance of < 2 cm or > 2 metres, not in between.
• etc.

Some approaches to an ideal camera might include.

• Catadioptric optics for large aperture minimum weight. (big reflector + small lens).
• Fresnel lens for minimum weight and minimum chromatic dispersion.
• Simultaneous UV and IR illumination at night with low-light adaptation for fast full colour night images that don’t disturb the subject.
• Strapped to head with motion sensor to take multiple zoom photos only while the head it still.
• Sound recording separate to photos but synchronisable to them.
• Auto-delete of bad shots and unwanted parts of sound recording.
• Trail cam type sensor to detect heat at night and movement during the day.
• Simultaneous active and passive focus.
• Fast. Time between activation and photograph measured in milliseconds.
• Auto-correct colours after photo taken.
• Tiny internal gyroscope combines with Registax stacking to eliminate camera motion for long exposures.
• Infinite depth of field is the default, dispenses with focus problems completely.
• Auto-detect subject movement and adjust by shortening exposure time.
• Cost < $100.

What’s your ideal camera?

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 forr $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

roughbarked said:

mollwollfumble said:

The inability of my present camera to do what I want has made me wonder. If you were to design a best possible camera for your needs, what would it be like?

Limitations of my present camera are:

• heavy
• big time delay between pressing button and taking photo
• won’t focus at night (even though during the autofocus process the subject momentarily appears sharp).
• won’t time-expose for longer than 1 second
• at night, want the autofocus light left on during photograph – camera switches it off
• dozens of useless fricking modes
• (also an extreme annoyance is switching between wrong photography modes when on “auto”)
• will focus to 0.1 mm precision on something small only at a distance of < 2 cm or > 2 metres, not in between.
• etc.

Some approaches to an ideal camera might include.

• Catadioptric optics for large aperture minimum weight. (big reflector + small lens).
• Fresnel lens for minimum weight and minimum chromatic dispersion.
• Simultaneous UV and IR illumination at night with low-light adaptation for fast full colour night images that don’t disturb the subject.
• Strapped to head with motion sensor to take multiple zoom photos only while the head it still.
• Sound recording separate to photos but synchronisable to them.
• Auto-delete of bad shots and unwanted parts of sound recording.
• Trail cam type sensor to detect heat at night and movement during the day.
• Simultaneous active and passive focus.
• Fast. Time between activation and photograph measured in milliseconds.
• Auto-correct colours after photo taken.
• Tiny internal gyroscope combines with Registax stacking to eliminate camera motion for long exposures.
• Infinite depth of field is the default, dispenses with focus problems completely.
• Auto-detect subject movement and adjust by shortening exposure time.
• Cost < $100.

What’s your ideal camera?

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 for $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

I don’t necessarily want all of those in one camera.

Olympus TG-1 main selling point:

• Waterproof to 12 metres, shock-proof and freeze-proof

Definitely need that to add to ideal camera specs. I like the low light, high megapixel, fast autofocus and GPS tagging capabilities.
Will it autofocus perfectly all the time in low light?

“The new Olympus Tough TG-1 is a rugged little digital camera that boasts the brightest zoom lens of any tough camera which at f/2.0 delivers stunning photos in low-light conditions. Couple that with a 12 megapixel BSI-CMOS sensor and you have really high-quality images from a camera you can take just about anywhere. New A-GPS technology delivers fast satellite acquisition and improved location tagging that travellers will appreciate. New iHS technology enables fast autofocus, quick response time and sequential shooting speeds. Waterproof to 12 metres, shock-proof and freeze-proof, the Olympus TG-1 is fantastic for people who demand exceptional performance when capturing their outdoor adventures.”

My ideal camera would be one whose pictures automatically match my human eye view in terms of brightness, contrast and colour.

Or at least one that has enough easily adjustable settings to enable me to achieve the same.

Bubblecar said:

My ideal camera would be one whose pictures automatically match my human eye view in terms of brightness, contrast and colour.

Or at least one that has enough easily adjustable settings to enable me to achieve the same.

That’s good! That’s doable.

I have one photo of a pale blue sky taken with an old camera that came out dark green.

I’d include match the human eye in depth of focus as well, rather than the very narrow depth of field of many cameras.

Would you agree with that?

Moll, you might find there’s a custom firmware upgrade (read ‘hack’) available for your current camera that will allow you to change it to your liking. Google is your friend.

Rule 303 said:

Moll, you might find there’s a custom firmware upgrade (read ‘hack’) available for your current camera that will allow you to change it to your liking. Google is your friend.

I like it, most of the time. I won it as a prize so didn’t select it myself.

The greatest annoyance is switching back and forth between modes every second or so when on auto. I can’t take the shot while it’s switching.

mollwollfumble said:

Bubblecar said:

My ideal camera would be one whose pictures automatically match my human eye view in terms of brightness, contrast and colour.

Or at least one that has enough easily adjustable settings to enable me to achieve the same.

That’s good! That’s doable.

I have one photo of a pale blue sky taken with an old camera that came out dark green.

I’d include match the human eye in depth of focus as well, rather than the very narrow depth of field of many cameras.

Would you agree with that?

Yeah, that too :)

The Olympus TG1 is getting a bit dated now. I have the current model, the TG5. This camera is very tough and can go underwater. We use it for rockpooling and such. It can shoot in RAW mode and is small and light enough to carry around to take happy snaps.

For serious photography I like to use a Canon DSLR in aperture or full manual mode. I hate automatic modes in cameras, they never get the image output settings to my liking. I like to shoot in RAW mode and then process the image data as required. One great advantage of a DSLR is the ability to change lenses to suit whatever you are trying to shoot. I always carry at least three different lenses. Another big advantage is the ability to use remote flash.

Bubblecar said:

Yeah, that too :)

:)

> Catadioptric optics for large aperture minimum weight. (big reflector + small lens).

From wikipedia

These lenses use some form of the cassegrain design which greatly reduces the physical length of the optical assembly, partly by folding the optical path, but mostly through the telephoto effect of the convex secondary mirror which multiplies the focal length many times (up to 4 to 5 times).This creates lenses with focal lengths from 250 mm up to and beyond 1000 mm that are much shorter and compact than their long-focus or telephoto counterparts. Moreover, chromatic aberration, a major problem with long refractive lenses, and off-axis aberration, a major problem with reflective telescopes, is almost completely eliminated by the catadioptric system, making the image they produce suitable to fill the large focal plane of a camera.

This is the optical system for the Pan-Starrs telescope, with 2 mirrors M1 & M2 and 3 lenses L1, L2 and L3 and three filters.

It’s a superb design for a super-lightweight, short, telephoto lens that gathers a lot of light very quickly so is great for night viewing, and for super-slo-mo during the day.

My present camera may have something like an 83 x optical zoom, which is nearly good enough.

mollwollfumble said:

My present camera may have something like an 83 x optical zoom, which is nearly good enough.

I keep telling you that my original TG-1 is a completely astounding camera that has provided 99.9% of the images I have posted here since this time in 2014.

mollwollfumble said:

My present camera may have something like an 83 x optical zoom, which is nearly good enough.

That seems like an awfully big zoom range.

(although I haven’t really looked at this stuff for 30 or 40years or so)

The Rev Dodgson said:

mollwollfumble said:

My present camera may have something like an 83 x optical zoom, which is nearly good enough.

That seems like an awfully big zoom range.

(although I haven’t really looked at this stuff for 30 or 40years or so)

The digicams make it way simpler. if you can translate.

For Canon cameras only

Canon Hacker’s Development Kit

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Features
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Downloads

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Cameras
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_1.4.0_User_Manual
http://zenoshrdlu.com/stick/stick.html
Script Writing – CHDK Forum
https://chdk.setepontos.com/index.php/board,7
http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_Dummies_Guide_2nd_Edition

Olympus Camera
A hacker’s dream: Olympus debuts hackable Micro Four Thirds camera at Japan Hackathon!
https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2015/01/10/a-hackers-dream-olympus-open-platform-micro-four-thirds-camera-debut-japan

For Canon EOS cameras
https://magiclantern.fm/

Nikon Cameras
Talking to the Masterminds Behind the Nikon Hacker Project
https://www.thephoblographer.com/2013/08/04/talking-to-the-masterminds-behind-the-nikon-hacker-project/
https://nikonhacker.com/

Android cameras
https://developer.android.com/training/camera/cameradirect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONqtui8OXkk

Samsung Cameras
https://developer.samsung.com/galaxy/camera/guide

Kick start project Idea

all those ideas listed above

modular camera hardware for easy replaceable up-gradable bits
mirror and mirror less designs
interchangeable CCD sensors, full frame 36 × 24mm, Four Thirds – 17.3 × 13mm , APS-H – 28.1 × 18.7mm, APS-C – 23.6 × 15.8mm (varies), One Inch – 9 × 12mm
opensource camera SDK software
remote control through blue tooth devices and its own IR remote
assign any button to any feature, long and short presses etc
long exposures
multiple exposures
night star mode,
astrophotography mode
lens adapters for common lenses

Adapters for telescopes
software for remote viewing/ remote controlling the camera

astrophotography programming

I’d look to Kickstarter Mollwollfumble,

design the camera then look for funding on kickstarter

use off the shelve bits for the camera where possible, like the CCD sensors.

add a light sensor, light meter

With interchangeable sensors, astronomers could put in their own designs.

The cpu, gpu modules could be interchangeable on a smaller scale like those in computer boards.

Longer battery life
Water proof
Water proof rear screen
High definition high resolution 4K rear screen
Rotatable pop-up flash
Programmable long exposures
Programmable Focus points
Programmable Flash
Programmable variable Flash temperature warm light white light cool light
User-replaceable front elements UV filters that work nicely with lens
Geolocation
Generic Raw profiles
Better interfaces user design GUIs SDK
What you see is what you get in color

Shatter proof rear screen

Dual lens dual CCDs for 3D capture

What you see is what you get in color
RAW profile information, the photo looks precisely the same in any image program on import as it looks on the back of the camera.

SDK for the astrophotogrphy module
SDK for the image processor engine

variable and fully programmable power saving settings
low shutter speed warning
setting minimum shutter speed
12 vdc and usb power inputs
rechargeable batteries can be recharged in camera while using camera

Rotatable pop-up flash is also fully tillable for wall/ ceiling bounce

wifi triggering
and bluetooth 4 100 meter triggering

Tau.Neutrino said:

• Adapters for telescopes
• software for remote viewing/ remote controlling the camera
• astrophotography programming
• I’d look to Kickstarter Mollwollfumble
• design the camera then look for funding on kickstarter
• use off the shelve bits for the camera where possible, like the CCD sensors
• add a light sensor, light meter
• With interchangeable sensors, astronomers could put in their own designs
• The cpu, gpu modules could be interchangeable on a smaller scale like those in computer boards.
  

Those are all good ideas. The “interchangeable sensors” would allow use of I,R,G,B,U five band sensors in place of the normal R,G,B, or narrowband such as 630 nm, the forbidden line of Oxygen in the Sun.

OMG, this opens up a whole raft of possibilities, such as use of a grism for selecting wavelengths to photograph. Or use of wavelengths specifically sensitive to chlorophyll and related chemicals (in use by remote sensing satellites). Or selecting linearly or circularly polarised filters to cut down reflections. As well as other normal camera filters.

I grit my teeth over the possibility of using the camera for hyperspectral imaging – a step too far, perhaps? Perhaps not, there are already hyperspectral cameras light enough to be operated from quadcopters. http://www.bayspec.com/spectroscopy/oci-uav-hyperspectral-camera/

And that leads my thought train in another direction, software. There is already software for mobile phones that stitches images into a 360 degree panorama. My software could build on that to turn a pair of 360 degree panoramas from two (or more) slightly different locations to get a full 3-D colour image. In exactly the same way that the brain uses the two images from the eyes to determine distance, but with much higher accuracy.

Or mount the camera on a car with a magnet and, as the car moves the camera projects a radar-like, but in full colour, 3-D map of the surrounding obstacles and vehicles. And calculates and displays relative speed differences such as +- 4 km/hr between your vehicle and others.

How many models of “ideal camera” still remains an open question. Is a telescope the same camera as a microscope as a slo-mo?

mollwollfumble said:

Tau.Neutrino said:

• Adapters for telescopes
• software for remote viewing/ remote controlling the camera
• astrophotography programming
• I’d look to Kickstarter Mollwollfumble
• design the camera then look for funding on kickstarter
• use off the shelve bits for the camera where possible, like the CCD sensors
• add a light sensor, light meter
• With interchangeable sensors, astronomers could put in their own designs
• The cpu, gpu modules could be interchangeable on a smaller scale like those in computer boards.
  

Those are all good ideas. The “interchangeable sensors” would allow use of I,R,G,B,U five band sensors in place of the normal R,G,B, or narrowband such as 630 nm, the forbidden line of Oxygen in the Sun.

OMG, this opens up a whole raft of possibilities, such as use of a grism for selecting wavelengths to photograph. Or use of wavelengths specifically sensitive to chlorophyll and related chemicals (in use by remote sensing satellites). Or selecting linearly or circularly polarised filters to cut down reflections. As well as other normal camera filters.

I grit my teeth over the possibility of using the camera for hyperspectral imaging – a step too far, perhaps? Perhaps not, there are already hyperspectral cameras light enough to be operated from quadcopters. http://www.bayspec.com/spectroscopy/oci-uav-hyperspectral-camera/

And that leads my thought train in another direction, software. There is already software for mobile phones that stitches images into a 360 degree panorama. My software could build on that to turn a pair of 360 degree panoramas from two (or more) slightly different locations to get a full 3-D colour image. In exactly the same way that the brain uses the two images from the eyes to determine distance, but with much higher accuracy.

Or mount the camera on a car with a magnet and, as the car moves the camera projects a radar-like, but in full colour, 3-D map of the surrounding obstacles and vehicles. And calculates and displays relative speed differences such as +- 4 km/hr between your vehicle and others.

How many models of “ideal camera” still remains an open question. Is a telescope the same camera as a microscope as a slo-mo?

> I keep telling you that my original TG-1 is a completely astounding camera that has provided 99.9% of the images I have posted here since this time in 2014.

I am keeping your offer very much in mind. I appreciate it, and I’ll think it over for a yay or nay while I’m interstate this week.

> How many models of “ideal camera” still remains an open question. Is a telescope the same camera as a microscope as a slo-mo?

Keeping 3-D still in mind, this type of microscope camera seems very popular. Possibly a step too far.

Confocal microscopy is an optical imaging technique for increasing optical resolution and contrast of a micrograph by means of using a spatial pinhole to block out-of-focus light in image formation. Capturing multiple two-dimensional images at different depths in a sample enables the reconstruction of three-dimensional structures (a process known as optical sectioning) within an object. This technique is used extensively in the scientific and industrial communities and typical applications are in life sciences, semiconductor inspection and materials science.

For example:

Rear 4k HD camera screens could be color calibrated along with color calibrating the main monitor

There are color calibration devices that can do this

Datacolor Spyder 5 Express $169.00

https://www.digidirect.com.au/accessories/colour_calibration/datacolor_spyder_5_express

look around for better prices

a modular design for a lens module could see additional lens modules added side by side

this would allow for Dual 3D lens or for a standard + mirco lens etc

each Lens module has its own cpu gpu modules

https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/how-to-calibrate-your-monitor/

Datacolor SpyderCUBE RAW Calibration Tool

roughbarked said:

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 for $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

Yes please. Quote accepted. I’ll buy it. $100 plus postage.

I’ll make that $140 plus postage if you drop in a few large pieces of potch.

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 for $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

Yes please. Quote accepted. I’ll buy it. $100 plus postage.

I’ll make that $140 plus postage if you drop in a few large pieces of potch.

This brings me around to the thought of what an “ideal” anything is. What would be an “ideal horse” for instance? For me, it comes down to four simple things:

• maximum range of abilities
• best possible default setting
• customisable
• maximum usable lifespan

For me, “customisable” means removing unwanted abilities from the user interface to make it as simple as possible, simplifying an aircraft cockpit for example.

Here is what I mean by range and default. In each range I put the default option first.

• Speed: high to low. With low speed result computed from stacked high speed images with sub-pixel registration, giving auto image stabilisation at all shutter speeds.

• Telephoto: low to high. With panorama from stacked images with sub-pixel registration. Optical + digital zoom.

• Focal depth: high to low. David Attenborough demonstrated a special lens system with exceedingly large focal depth

• Focal distance: infinity to microscope. Ability to see tiny objects at all distances

• Colour: human sight or mechanical colour. Also with Irfanview-like auto-colour correct. See below.

• Electromagnetic spectrum: RGB, near IR, thermal IR, near UV, hyperspectral

• Autofocus: wide or centred. Using a combination of both active and passive focussing

• Video frame rate: 24 / s, ranging from much faster to much slower

• Light source: on camera and semi-detachable. Semi-detachable when used as microscope and to avoid red-eye

• Night sight: full colour or monochrome. Monochrome gives an image three times as bright

• Support: handheld vs fixed mount vs non-fixed mount. The “mount” options are taken by button on remote. Non-fixed (like GoPro) retains image stabilisation

• Polarisation: none, circular and orientable

• Magnet wedge: zero to 45 degrees. Adjust orientation for remote mount

• Price: low to high. Dependent on lens size

• Lens size 50 mm, 5 mm, 400 mm. Small for microscope, catadioptric large for telescope or night

• “Best in time” and “zoom in”. Keep taking images while the button is pressed and auto-delete all but the best one

• Fully articulated LCD display like Nikon Coolpix.

Other thoughts.
There are some things that I personally can do without, but others may consider such omissions impossible. I personally can do without:

• viewfinder, flash, tripod, self-timer, autobracket, fisheye, filters, modes, manual focus, redeye

Each of these already has an inbuilt workaround. Human sight and onboard light source together replace flash. Image stabilisation with light weight and magnet attachment together replace tripod. Remote control eliminates self-timer. Human sight and multistacking together eliminates autobracket. Panorama processing replaces fisheye lens. Human sight eliminates some filters such as neutral density gradient and others can be applied by post processing. The combination of active and passive focussing replaces manual focus. Human sight eliminates some modes such as snow and fireworks and reduces redeye; multistacking replaces sports mode.

Include:

• Inbuilt automatic dark field and flat field
• Chip cooling for thermal infrared and for minimising dark field: heat pipe, peltier or evaporation
• 3-D mode, binocular vs continuous
• GPS for image tagging
• Geiger counter mode: click vs time exposure
• Waterproof

Human sight has several components.

• A nonlinear mapping between incoming light and image brightness brightens dark areas and eliminates saturation.
• Colour bands match those of the human eye so, for instance, reflections off water surfaces are reduced.
• Wide depth of focus.
• Wide field of view.
• Possibly monochrome night sight to gather more light. The human eye has more night-vision cells.
• Possibly different resolutions for r, g and b. The human eye has very few blue-sensitive cells.
• Removal of spectral range overlap between r and g (to avoid duplication)
• Possibly higher resolution in centre of image.

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 for $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

Yes please. Quote accepted. I’ll buy it. $100 plus postage.

I’ll make that $140 plus postage if you drop in a few large pieces of potch.

I hope you are aware that I was joking. You are closer to a cash converter than me. It could be different if I could find a similar camera at a similar price. Not sure about the red colour though. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Olympus-Tough-TG-2-12mp-Camera-Red-perfect-condition-with-box-and-accessories/192703831751?hash=item2cde0b1ec7:g:T1UAAOSwdrpb1M13

roughbarked said:

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

You want a lot for $100 but I’ll sell my Olympus TG-1 for $100. It has some scratches on it but it is still worth more than that to me.

Yes please. Quote accepted. I’ll buy it. $100 plus postage.

I’ll make that $140 plus postage if you drop in a few large pieces of potch.

I hope you are aware that I was joking. You are closer to a cash converter than me. It could be different if I could find a similar camera at a similar price. Not sure about the red colour though. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Olympus-Tough-TG-2-12mp-Camera-Red-perfect-condition-with-box-and-accessories/192703831751?hash=item2cde0b1ec7:g:T1UAAOSwdrpb1M13

Yep. I was aware you were joking.

But it was worth a try though, wasn’t it?

Has the advantage over my present camera of fitting in a pocket, I only have one clothing item with a pocket large enough. BTW, my camera is 60 x optical zoom, I was wrong when I said 85 x.

If I had more enthusiasm, it would be a good exercise for me to write the software for getting 3-D images out of a binocular pair of 2-D images, and doing it at super-fast speed. And displaying those 3-D images.

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

mollwollfumble said:

Yes please. Quote accepted. I’ll buy it. $100 plus postage.

I’ll make that $140 plus postage if you drop in a few large pieces of potch.

I hope you are aware that I was joking. You are closer to a cash converter than me. It could be different if I could find a similar camera at a similar price. Not sure about the red colour though. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Olympus-Tough-TG-2-12mp-Camera-Red-perfect-condition-with-box-and-accessories/192703831751?hash=item2cde0b1ec7:g:T1UAAOSwdrpb1M13

Yep. I was aware you were joking.

But it was worth a try though, wasn’t it?

Has the advantage over my present camera of fitting in a pocket, I only have one clothing item with a pocket large enough. BTW, my camera is 60 x optical zoom, I was wrong when I said 85 x.

If I had more enthusiasm, it would be a good exercise for me to write the software for getting 3-D images out of a binocular pair of 2-D images, and doing it at super-fast speed. And displaying those 3-D images.

Sure it was. I was lucky or at least I thought I was, to pick mine up for $200 some four years ago. I also have a Nikon D80 but I mainly use the Olympus because it can do much of what the DSLR can do. I do miss the viewfinder but the lenses cannot get dirty, the sensor also cannot get dirty. Nothing protrudes to potentially break.

It has taken some remarkable photos.

and Flickr had a problem while I was making this post so the other photos will have to wait until they fix it. Bad Panda.

It also has many features that I have barely looked at. Such as effects.

roughbarked said:

It also has many features that I have barely looked at. Such as effects.

Bloody beautiful.

I’ve split up my (and your) ideas on an ideal camera into six cartoons. To appear later.

Good Scientist cartoon 575 to 581. Seven different ideas about what constitutes and ideal camera.