What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.
Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.
Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
I’m no expert, but it could have been a bomb or anti-tank shell.
On the plus aide it’s not the tractor which was my initial thought at the thread title.
You appear to have had what Dick Johnson referred to as an electrical problem, in that a piece of exploding engine knocked the battery terminal off.
Woodie said:
It Bruck. Conrod let go after big-end seizure, I reckon. Not piston broke.
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
Considering all your mechanical problems, it seems you are trying to do too much with too little.
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
Looks a bit cleaner anyway.
I’d give the mowing away for the afternoon.
PermeateFree said:
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
Considering all your mechanical problems, it seems you are trying to do too much with too little.
The motor on the pump is fixed. new fuel pipe. Now goes just like a bought one. ‘cept there’s now very little water in the creek waterhole I pump from. Emptied it out I did. Lowest it’s been in 17 years since I’ve been here.
Woodie said:
PermeateFree said:
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed? Or do I need a new zero turn ride on?
Considering all your mechanical problems, it seems you are trying to do too much with too little.
The motor on the pump is fixed. new fuel pipe. Now goes just like a bought one. ‘cept there’s now very little water in the creek waterhole I pump from. Emptied it out I did. Lowest it’s been in 17 years since I’ve been here.
Time to do a bore…
can’t see a drop of oil.
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
It Bruck. Conrod let go after big-end seizure, I reckon. Not piston broke.
Yep. I’ve actually watched the conrod come out the side of the block once. poof! job done.
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
It Bruck. Conrod let go after big-end seizure, I reckon. Not piston broke.
Yep. I’ve actually watched the conrod come out the side of the block once. poof! job done.
2 or 4 stroke?
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
It Bruck. Conrod let go after big-end seizure, I reckon. Not piston broke.
Yep. I’ve actually watched the conrod come out the side of the block once. poof! job done.
I believe that the user manuals refer to that as a ‘zero-percentage recovery situation’.
captain_spalding said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:It Bruck. Conrod let go after big-end seizure, I reckon. Not piston broke.
Yep. I’ve actually watched the conrod come out the side of the block once. poof! job done.
I believe that the user manuals refer to that as a ‘zero-percentage recovery situation’.
Yes.
transition said:
can’t see a drop of oil.
That’s the side, not the base. There is oil in it.
So….. is it easy enough to change the motor on these things?
Such as this one?
The mountings appear to be the same, and positioning of the throttle and choke cables, and other connectors, power to the starter motor etc appear to be the same.
Or…………………..
it’s a whole new mower.Woodie said:
So….. is it easy enough to change the motor on these things?Such as this one?
The mountings appear to be the same, and positioning of the throttle and choke cables, and other connectors, power to the starter motor etc appear to be the same.
Or…………………..
it’s a whole new mower.
If you know anything at all about mechanics and have the tools, not hard to change the motor at all.
Woodie said:
transition said:
can’t see a drop of oil.That’s the side, not the base. There is oil in it.
okay, B&S motor or something else?
transition said:
Woodie said:
transition said:
can’t see a drop of oil.That’s the side, not the base. There is oil in it.
okay, B&S motor or something else?
Looks B&S probably.
transition said:
Woodie said:
transition said:
can’t see a drop of oil.That’s the side, not the base. There is oil in it.
okay, B&S motor or something else?
common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
Woodie said:
What happened to my motor? It got KABOOM! Got a big hole in it.Can it be fixed?
Yes it can – by buying a completely new engine.
I blew up a B&S engine on a ride on. I got someone else to replace it with a B&S Intek engine.
Only issue was around fitting the muffler and fuel tank into the available space.
it’s munted woodie, It put a leg out of bed big time
transition said:
transition said:
Woodie said:That’s the side, not the base. There is oil in it.
okay, B&S motor or something else?
common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
Ian said:
I blew up a B&S engine on a ride on. I got someone else to replace it with a B&S Intek engine.
Only issue was around fitting the muffler and fuel tank into the available space.
I like your thinking, Mr Ian. Will be visiting Mr Mower Man in town in the morning to see what can be done. (where I got it from in the first place about 7 years ago, it was 2nd hand then. Husqvarna zero turn it is. 19.5 hp B & S motor 42” cut.)
Woodie said:
transition said:
transition said:okay, B&S motor or something else?
common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
And I can vouch for this: it made a very loud ouch sound when it failed. I heard from where I was…
Woodie said:
transition said:
transition said:okay, B&S motor or something else?
common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
Look. To be fair I will admit that in the instance of when I as opal claim holder and operator, when I heard the generator motor change tune, I headed for the ladder and when I got to the top of the ladder which meant my head was above ground and looking at the last place I recalled the generator sitting, POOF! out the side of the block came the conrod. Clearly separated at the big end because that was what was stickimg out the side of the block.
It was a borrowed genset. B&S motor. It had been recently renovated so it was in reality a warranty issue. It Just so happened that Murphy was watching over me on that trip.
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
transition said:common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
And I can vouch for this: it made a very loud ouch sound when it failed. I heard from where I was…
I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
Woodie said:It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
And I can vouch for this: it made a very loud ouch sound when it failed. I heard from where I was…
I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:And I can vouch for this: it made a very loud ouch sound when it failed. I heard from where I was…
I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
I’m no fan of B&S. Yes I am aware that people do get good work from them particularly if they follow manufacturers instructions.
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:And I can vouch for this: it made a very loud ouch sound when it failed. I heard from where I was…
I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
Husqvarna put Kawasaki motors on them now.
Woodie said:
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
Husqvarna put Kawasaki motors on them now.
I still recall when a friend pulled up on his brand new Kwaka 650 twin fourstroke, I had to look. When I saw the three rifles, I knew what was going on.
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:I’ve tried very diplomatically I would have presumed to not actually mention that this is why Honda have a better reputation but there you go.
One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
I’m no fan of B&S. Yes I am aware that people do get good work from them particularly if they follow manufacturers instructions.
The original Ride On (tractor style) I bought 16 years ago has a B & S and that is still going strong. It got treated pretty rough. The mower deck rusted out around the back. Like you’d opened it up with one of them old can openers.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:One would presume Husqvana would put a reliable motor onto their products. But it’s done a bit of work. It’s a late-model B&S OHV motor. Not one of their intermediate non-hard-Al-bore SV motors.
I’m no fan of B&S. Yes I am aware that people do get good work from them particularly if they follow manufacturers instructions.
The original Ride On (tractor style) I bought 16 years ago has a B & S and that is still going strong. It got treated pretty rough. The mower deck rusted out around the back. Like you’d opened it up with one of them old can openers.
The thing is, you have what is basically a stationary engine mounted on wheels.
Woodie said:
transition said:
transition said:okay, B&S motor or something else?
common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:I’m no fan of B&S. Yes I am aware that people do get good work from them particularly if they follow manufacturers instructions.
The original Ride On (tractor style) I bought 16 years ago has a B & S and that is still going strong. It got treated pretty rough. The mower deck rusted out around the back. Like you’d opened it up with one of them old can openers.
The thing is, you have what is basically a stationary engine mounted on wheels.
So is a car, if you want to look at it that way. :) :)
transition said:
Woodie said:
transition said:common thing, people run them low on oil, hardly change oil too(and filter gets neglected), wears out bore/piston etc, then they burn oil fast, run dry or too low, ending in serious failure.
It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
transition said:
don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :).
Nope adjusted nothing. Although it did have some rough going at times.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:The original Ride On (tractor style) I bought 16 years ago has a B & S and that is still going strong. It got treated pretty rough. The mower deck rusted out around the back. Like you’d opened it up with one of them old can openers.
The thing is, you have what is basically a stationary engine mounted on wheels.
So is a car, if you want to look at it that way. :) :)
You know that I am not.
roughbarked said:
transition said:
Woodie said:It was not low on oil, the oil and filters were changed about 6 months ago. It is about 10 years old. B & S motor.
don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
Woodie said:
transition said:don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :).
Nope adjusted nothing. Although it did have some rough going at times.
Don’t freak out about nothing. The conrod has forked the block. This shyte is the stuff that happens to the best of us if we entrust B&S engines to do shit they were never iintentioned to do.
Honda made a big name for themselves on Australian farms for a very real reason. B&S were made for American export conditions and you all know what that means.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
transition said:don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
$790 – $1300 (depending on motor) and hope that it goes on nice and easily without hassles, or $6000 for a new mower and remove all doubt.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
transition said:don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
Changing the motor is no big prob if you know how to but even then you only pay the mechanic for doing his job.
New motor? not really necessary there are thousands of good motors waiting for someone who knows how and wants to hear their tune.
Woodie said:
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
$790 – $1300 (depending on motor) and hope that it goes on nice and easily without hassles, or $6000 for a new mower and remove all doubt.
I’ve got a good 11HP Honda my wife would willingly have me take it off the slasher and send it to you, if you paid the freight. However, I am not my wife.
roughbarked said:
Honda made a big name for themselves on Australian farms for a very real reason. B&S were made for American export conditions and you all know what that means.
Honda AFAIK, only make push mowers. Not zero turn mowers or their motors (that I can find, anyway). The Honda place in town only does push mowers.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:Honda made a big name for themselves on Australian farms for a very real reason. B&S were made for American export conditions and you all know what that means.
Honda AFAIK, only make push mowers. Not zero turn mowers or their motors (that I can find, anyway). The Honda place in town only does push mowers.
Honda make everything mate, If you’ll allow me to call you that.
I have a slasher that has an 11hp engine. I also have a greenkeepers mower that has a Villiers two stroke powerhouse that is at best 19cc. The fuel tank is a coffee cup.
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:
Woodie said:I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
$790 – $1300 (depending on motor) and hope that it goes on nice and easily without hassles, or $6000 for a new mower and remove all doubt.
I’ve got a good 11HP Honda my wife would willingly have me take it off the slasher and send it to you, if you paid the freight. However, I am not my wife.
Currently has 19.5 HP on it. 11 hp won’t cut it, so to speak. Looking for 18 – 20 hp replacement.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
transition said:don’t tell me, you adjusted the governor to get through the six foot high marshmallows :). I did that with a push mower, a two-stroke (borrowed it from dad) it eventually vibrated to bits, couldn’t keep the carby bolted on, and the disc the blades hang on eventually cracked all the way around and fell off. Many other problems too, it aged 20 years in about one season.
worn out, mate, probably let go from the big end, snapped the rod or whatever.
Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
New (cheap) motor. The rest of the beast is OK…
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:Honda made a big name for themselves on Australian farms for a very real reason. B&S were made for American export conditions and you all know what that means.
Honda AFAIK, only make push mowers. Not zero turn mowers or their motors (that I can find, anyway). The Honda place in town only does push mowers.
Honda make everything mate, If you’ll allow me to call you that.
I have a slasher that has an 11hp engine. I also have a greenkeepers mower that has a Villiers two stroke powerhouse that is at best 19cc. The fuel tank is a coffee cup.
What I am saying that if there is a market for a motor, Honda will be in there. The Villiers equivalent is what Honda put in your whippersnipper. It is after all from a watchmaker’s point of view, in the gearing.
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:$790 – $1300 (depending on motor) and hope that it goes on nice and easily without hassles, or $6000 for a new mower and remove all doubt.
I’ve got a good 11HP Honda my wife would willingly have me take it off the slasher and send it to you, if you paid the freight. However, I am not my wife.
Currently has 19.5 HP on it. 11 hp won’t cut it, so to speak. Looking for 18 – 20 hp replacement.
Doesn’t matter, get any motor other than a B&S replacement. You may be forced to buy a long motor but you won’t look back.
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:Well the rod obviously poked a hole in the block. END OF STORY.
I know the motor is kerstuffed, kernackered and kernucked. It has ceased to be. It is an ex motor.
But what do I do about it? New motor or new mower?
New (cheap) motor. The rest of the beast is OK…
Second hand could last forever, even if it is also a B&S engine.
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:
roughbarked said:Honda made a big name for themselves on Australian farms for a very real reason. B&S were made for American export conditions and you all know what that means.
Honda AFAIK, only make push mowers. Not zero turn mowers or their motors (that I can find, anyway). The Honda place in town only does push mowers.
Honda make everything mate, If you’ll allow me to call you that.
I have a slasher that has an 11hp engine. I also have a greenkeepers mower that has a Villiers two stroke powerhouse that is at best 19cc. The fuel tank is a coffee cup.
Does it have the same mounting pattern as this? A shaft diameter of 25.4mm and length of 80 mm? Can you find me a honda motor that does?

Woodie said:
roughbarked said:
Woodie said:Honda AFAIK, only make push mowers. Not zero turn mowers or their motors (that I can find, anyway). The Honda place in town only does push mowers.
Honda make everything mate, If you’ll allow me to call you that.
I have a slasher that has an 11hp engine. I also have a greenkeepers mower that has a Villiers two stroke powerhouse that is at best 19cc. The fuel tank is a coffee cup.
Does it have the same mounting pattern as this? A shaft diameter of 25.4mm and length of 80 mm? Can you find me a honda motor that does?
I don’t think that is actually up to me to configure for you. We don’t yet have a contract.
It is why I suggested you ask your mechanic.
Motors and shaft considerations are usually universal changeovers, If you know how to see it.
Well, after careful consideration, some measurin’ and more measurin’ and a cuppla one-eyed alignments with outstretched thumbs, and mouth wetted finger held in the breeze to determine ambient wind direction, an executive decision has been made.
and it’s this oneand it’s on special too. :) Pay only $675. :)
…… and on other busted news…………………
Mr Tractor Company have agreed to supply a new power steering hydraulic pump.
Woodie said:
Well, after careful consideration, some measurin’ and more measurin’ and a cuppla one-eyed alignments with outstretched thumbs, and mouth wetted finger held in the breeze to determine ambient wind direction, an executive decision has been made. and it’s this oneand it’s on special too. :) Pay only $675. :)
should bolt straight in.
Woodie said:
…… and on other busted news…………………Mr Tractor Company have agreed to supply a new power steering hydraulic pump.
Is that where the leak is coming from?
Are they going to fix it, or do you have to?
JudgeMental said:
Woodie said:
Well, after careful consideration, some measurin’ and more measurin’ and a cuppla one-eyed alignments with outstretched thumbs, and mouth wetted finger held in the breeze to determine ambient wind direction, an executive decision has been made. and it’s this oneand it’s on special too. :) Pay only $675. :)
should bolt straight in.
and cables (throttle/Choke) and starter motor connections etc all look to be in similar or same config.
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
…… and on other busted news…………………Mr Tractor Company have agreed to supply a new power steering hydraulic pump.
Is that where the leak is coming from?
Are they going to fix it, or do you have to?
It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
Woodie said:
JudgeMental said:
Woodie said:
Well, after careful consideration, some measurin’ and more measurin’ and a cuppla one-eyed alignments with outstretched thumbs, and mouth wetted finger held in the breeze to determine ambient wind direction, an executive decision has been made. and it’s this oneand it’s on special too. :) Pay only $675. :)
should bolt straight in.
and cables (throttle/Choke) and starter motor connections etc all look to be in similar or same config.
Mr Mower Man in town quoted me approx $2K to fit and replace with a B & S motor. They’d done one just the week before, they said.
Woodie said:
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
…… and on other busted news…………………Mr Tractor Company have agreed to supply a new power steering hydraulic pump.
Is that where the leak is coming from?
Are they going to fix it, or do you have to?
It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
You could have got that vintage Massey, it would be cuter and more reliable.
AwesomeO said:
Woodie said:
Michael V said:Is that where the leak is coming from?
Are they going to fix it, or do you have to?
It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
You could have got that vintage Massey, it would be cuter and more reliable.
Wah…. the one you start with a shotgun shell?
Woodie said:
AwesomeO said:
Woodie said:It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
You could have got that vintage Massey, it would be cuter and more reliable.
Wah…. the one you start with a shotgun shell?
Yours sounds like it stands to be shot.
>>PTO shaft rotation Anti-clockwise (from PTO side)
Does that matter with your mower?
Woodie said:
Michael V said:
Woodie said:
…… and on other busted news…………………Mr Tractor Company have agreed to supply a new power steering hydraulic pump.
Is that where the leak is coming from?
Are they going to fix it, or do you have to?
It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
Bloody.
Peak Warming Man said:
>>PTO shaft rotation Anti-clockwise (from PTO side)Does that matter with your mower?
I’m taking it that all motors have the same shaft rotation. Otherwise the thing will go backwards when I want forwards, and put the grass back, rather than cut it.
Oh…. and all you tractory lot…. should the rear wheels have bolts to hold them on? (pic is looking from the inside) Also the different depth/length of the bolts coming through. Can’t easily tell what’s on the outer side, as I’d have to take the rear wheel ballast weights off to find out.
Woodie said:
Oh…. and all you tractory lot…. should the rear wheels have bolts to hold them on? (pic is looking from the inside) Also the different depth/length of the bolts coming through. Can’t easily tell what’s on the outer side, as I’d have to take the rear wheel ballast weights off to find out.
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Dear oh fucking dear. That’s degraceful. And that’s just the stuff you can see. This company got a headquarters? I know you are smart enough to keep all your paperwork and piccies for a potential lemon law claim, albeit probably not applicable to tractors.
Woodie said:
Oh…. and all you tractory lot…. should the rear wheels have bolts to hold them on? (pic is looking from the inside) Also the different depth/length of the bolts coming through. Can’t easily tell what’s on the outer side, as I’d have to take the rear wheel ballast weights off to find out.
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The housing might be threaded but there’s something not right there, and it’s got a grease nipple, ooohh.
Woodie said:
AwesomeO said:
Woodie said:It’s leaking into the engine sump. The hydraulic pumps run off a cam from the motor, not a belt, like the alternator or fan. There are TWO hydraulic pumps that work off the single cam. One for the steering, and one for the FEL, Rear lifter and aux hydraulics. That’s where that oil trail across the paddock came from. From the sump overflow, after it’s filling the sump with hydraulic oil. They’ve agree to provide the part, and I’m quoting Australian Consumer Guarantee law to get them to pay for fitting it too.
The wheels falling off problem has yet to have a solution.
You could have got that vintage Massey, it would be cuter and more reliable.
Wah…. the one you start with a shotgun shell?
coffman starter, and they might look like a shotgun cartridge but they aren’t.
Peak Warming Man said:
Woodie said:
Oh…. and all you tractory lot…. should the rear wheels have bolts to hold them on? (pic is looking from the inside) Also the different depth/length of the bolts coming through. Can’t easily tell what’s on the outer side, as I’d have to take the rear wheel ballast weights off to find out.
![]()
The housing might be threaded but there’s something not right there, and it’s got a grease nipple, ooohh.
you want to play with it, that mammal thing, I won’t tell.
got a hub, possibly not part of the axle, i’m not sure.
FIGJAM…… again!!
Have new motor, will mow! Goes just like a bought one. :) VROOOOOOOOM…. does big donut in driveway VROOOOOOMMMM….
Hope I tightened all them bolts up tight enough………….