I have an antique Australian Red Cedar desk that I use as a dining table. It was signed by its maker in pencil under the top “J Cochrane October 16 1886”. It was commissioned by the NSW Police Department in December 1886 – and stamped with a Crown, and “P DEC 1886. I rescued it from a rubbish consignment in 1978.

It had no drawers and was coming apart but wasn’t rickety. About 20 years ago I had the table dismantled and re-assembled properly by a skilled artisan furniture-maker. It was not refinished at that time and still has the patina of its entire history. She also made a pair of cedar dovetailed drawers specially compartmentalised for cutlery, placemats etc. Modern glue was used to prevent any joint on the table coming apart again.

Unfortunately the runners on the drawers (and in the table) have now worn considerably and need repair. The runners in the table are very difficult to get to, but not impossible to reach by hand. I only have a couple of millimetres to work with vertically, maybe less, because of the fit of the drawer front in its opening.

My skills:

Impatience
Inability to cut squarely
Can use a very big hammer on rock successfully

I have some tools that I am not skilled at using well. eg:

Chisels, saws, plane, belt sander, orbital sander, electric drill, angle grinder, hammers etc.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

The question:

Can any of you woodworkers recommend a simple repair (preferably one in keeping with the table’s age)?

Photos.

Sounds like a problem that will require a skilled person there in person, to assess exactly what needs to be done.

Photos might help :)

Bubblecar said:

Sounds like a problem that will require a skilled person there in person, to assess exactly what needs to be done.

Photos might help :)

…as Sibeen suggested.

I want photos so I can drool over red cedar old furniture.

Photos? Impossible. Our camera has a dodgy battery ($199 to replace). Mrs V’s mobile doesn’t take low-light photos.

The runners have become grooved and gouged, where wood has worked on wood for the last 20-odd years.

ruby said:

I want photos so I can drool over red cedar old furniture.

:)

Yeah. I do love this table. I’ll see what I can do with Mrs V’s phone in the light tomorrow.

:)

Bubblecar said:

Sounds like a problem that will require a skilled person there in person, to assess exactly what needs to be done.

Photos might help :)

Local men’s shed men perhaps

Cymek said:

Bubblecar said:

Sounds like a problem that will require a skilled person there in person, to assess exactly what needs to be done.

Photos might help :)

Local men’s shed men perhaps

I think it will have to be me that fixes it. Local men’s shed is 75 km away, and the cars are not big enough inside to transport it.

Michael V said:

Cymek said:

Bubblecar said:

Sounds like a problem that will require a skilled person there in person, to assess exactly what needs to be done.

Photos might help :)

Local men’s shed men perhaps

I think it will have to be me that fixes it. Local men’s shed is 75 km away, and the cars are not big enough inside to transport it.

Fair point, unless you push it there and make a documentary about it.

A man and his table, more than a journey a life experience.
Starring Brian Brown as Michael V, defrosted for your convenience

Cymek said:

Michael V said:

Cymek said:

Local men’s shed men perhaps

I think it will have to be me that fixes it. Local men’s shed is 75 km away, and the cars are not big enough inside to transport it.

Fair point, unless you push it there and make a documentary about it.

A man and his table, more than a journey a life experience.
Starring Brian Brown as Michael V, defrosted for your convenience

LOL

:)

Do you know how the old runners are attached? Are they glued, or nail or screwed in?

Is the bottom of the table removable, so you can get a bit more space to get at the drawer runners?

If possible I’d be looking at plastic draw runners as a replacement.

Have you tried duct tape?

party_pants said:

Do you know how the old runners are attached? Are they glued, or nail or screwed in?

Is the bottom of the table removable, so you can get a bit more space to get at the drawer runners?

If possible I’d be looking at plastic draw runners as a replacement.

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Divine Angel said:

Have you tried duct tape?

Um, no. I haven’t tried anything yet. How would that work?

Michael V said:

party_pants said:

Do you know how the old runners are attached? Are they glued, or nail or screwed in?

Is the bottom of the table removable, so you can get a bit more space to get at the drawer runners?

If possible I’d be looking at plastic draw runners as a replacement.

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Turn table upside down. Very gently tap away at old runners with a chisel to remove. Be patient. Cut new runners to size, Position carefully and pre-drill all your holes. Glue and screw.

party_pants said:

Michael V said:

party_pants said:

Do you know how the old runners are attached? Are they glued, or nail or screwed in?

Is the bottom of the table removable, so you can get a bit more space to get at the drawer runners?

If possible I’d be looking at plastic draw runners as a replacement.

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Turn table upside down. Very gently tap away at old runners with a chisel to remove. Be patient. Cut new runners to size, Position carefully and pre-drill all your holes. Glue and screw.

Afraid.

My skills aren’t nearly good enough to do that, considering the old runners are glued in with a relatively modern glue.

I could glue on thin plastic strips, but where to get them?

Michael V said:

party_pants said:

Michael V said:

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Turn table upside down. Very gently tap away at old runners with a chisel to remove. Be patient. Cut new runners to size, Position carefully and pre-drill all your holes. Glue and screw.

Afraid.

My skills aren’t nearly good enough to do that, considering the old runners are glued in with a relatively modern glue.

I could glue on thin plastic strips, but where to get them?

Bunnings should have runners

Michael V said:

party_pants said:

Michael V said:

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Turn table upside down. Very gently tap away at old runners with a chisel to remove. Be patient. Cut new runners to size, Position carefully and pre-drill all your holes. Glue and screw.

Afraid.

My skills aren’t nearly good enough to do that, considering the old runners are glued in with a relatively modern glue.

I could glue on thin plastic strips, but where to get them?

Don’t know.

I know Bunnings sell plastic drawer sliders because I’ve bought and used them.

Plastic strips I am not sure. Just walk around in a Bunnings or Kmart or Officeworks or somewhere like that and look for anything plastic that is cheap and looks suitable for cutting down. But I guess it’s a day’s drive for you to your nearest such place.

Bunnings should have moulded plastic angle “iron” or similar in various sizes and lengths.

Michael V said:

Photos? Impossible. Our camera has a dodgy battery ($199 to replace). Mrs V’s mobile doesn’t take low-light photos.

The runners have become grooved and gouged, where wood has worked on wood for the last 20-odd years.

Don’t do what i did. I packed up the runners with thick solid cardboard (no tools required except for sharp knife). Lasted only about 9 months.

You should be able to remove the drawer completely. Then it’s easy to take the runners off and replace with fresh wood.

Concentrate on getting the drawer out.

mv – can you contact your original repairer and ask her advice?

I like the plastic re-facing idea, except the runners never wear evenly or flat, so (if I am understanding the problem correctly) it wont help.

If the runners are separate (ie, not part of the main frame) I would take them off as described above, plane the sliding surface of the draw back to flat, turn the runners over and put them back on up-side down. Dry soap is the traditional lubricant.

Good luck with it, MV.

Rub a candle up and down the runners and the drawer to fill in all the worn bits and cracked bits with candle wax.

Rub candle on the bottom bits of the drawers that sit on the runners for smooth opening and closing.

esselte said:

Rub a candle up and down the runners and the drawer to fill in all the worn bits and cracked bits with candle wax.

Rub candle on the bottom bits of the drawers that sit on the runners for smooth opening and closing.

From your description the runners are too far gone for candlewax.

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

Michael V said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

I have used similar. You will need really careful preparation of the surfaces & ensure the edges are securely bonded.

Tamb said:

Michael V said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

I have used similar. You will need really careful preparation of the surfaces & ensure the edges are securely bonded.

Possibly only tape on the runners. The drawers can be made perfectly smooth without tape.

Tamb said:

Michael V said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

I have used similar. You will need really careful preparation of the surfaces & ensure the edges are securely bonded.

Ta.

Tamb said:

Tamb said:

Michael V said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

I have used similar. You will need really careful preparation of the surfaces & ensure the edges are securely bonded.

Possibly only tape on the runners. The drawers can be made perfectly smooth without tape.

Some sites recommend treatment of both surfaces. (Drawer and runner.)

>>>>The drawers can be made perfectly smooth without tape.

Not with my lack of skill, unfortunately.

Michael V said:

Thanks for all your ideas so far.

I may have found a group of products that might help me do a repair.

UHMW PE tape. (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene tape.)

eg:

https://www.pacwestcorp.com.au/products/adhesive-wear-strip/

http://www.cpsupplies.com.au/5423024%2B%2B%2B/3M-UHMW-Film-Tape-5423-24mmx16.4m/pd.php

https://embossingtapesupplies.com.au/uhmw-tape-slick-surface-tape.html

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

https://www.wayout.com.au/products/adhesive-tapes/uhmw-polyethylene-anti-abrasion-tape-with-liner-h437/

The first one at 0.5 mm thick might work, after scraping the grooves in the timber back (at least somewhat). I would apply the tape to both the drawer and the table runners.

Have any of you had any experience with these types of products?

Or know of anybody who has had experience?

Care to comment, JudgeMental?

Michael V said:

I have an antique Australian Red Cedar desk that I use as a dining table. It was signed by its maker in pencil under the top “J Cochrane October 16 1886”. It was commissioned by the NSW Police Department in December 1886 – and stamped with a Crown, and “P DEC 1886. I rescued it from a rubbish consignment in 1978.

It had no drawers and was coming apart but wasn’t rickety. About 20 years ago I had the table dismantled and re-assembled properly by a skilled artisan furniture-maker. It was not refinished at that time and still has the patina of its entire history. She also made a pair of cedar dovetailed drawers specially compartmentalised for cutlery, placemats etc. Modern glue was used to prevent any joint on the table coming apart again.

Unfortunately the runners on the drawers (and in the table) have now worn considerably and need repair. The runners in the table are very difficult to get to, but not impossible to reach by hand. I only have a couple of millimetres to work with vertically, maybe less, because of the fit of the drawer front in its opening.

My skills:

Impatience
Inability to cut squarely
Can use a very big hammer on rock successfully

I have some tools that I am not skilled at using well. eg:

Chisels, saws, plane, belt sander, orbital sander, electric drill, angle grinder, hammers etc.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

The question:

Can any of you woodworkers recommend a simple repair (preferably one in keeping with the table’s age)?

Well, the big issue with a lot of Australian red cedar drawer runners is that another type of wood is used for the runner itself. They are all harder than red cedar and thus wear out the red cedar drawers. Hence the runners in a red cedar furniture piece, should be made of red cedar.

Michael V said:

party_pants said:

Do you know how the old runners are attached? Are they glued, or nail or screwed in?

Is the bottom of the table removable, so you can get a bit more space to get at the drawer runners?

If possible I’d be looking at plastic draw runners as a replacement.

1)……. Glued and nailed.

2)……. I can get to them from underneath. It’s just very awkward.

3)……. I had though that, but couldn’t find any.

Don’t use plastic drawer runners.
Please don’t.

If you want to go modern properly get the roller runners that have nylon running on metal.

esselte said:

Rub a candle up and down the runners and the drawer to fill in all the worn bits and cracked bits with candle wax.

Rub candle on the bottom bits of the drawers that sit on the runners for smooth opening and closing.

Beeswax. or for a dual purpose, use Dubbin.

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

I have an antique Australian Red Cedar desk that I use as a dining table. It was signed by its maker in pencil under the top “J Cochrane October 16 1886”. It was commissioned by the NSW Police Department in December 1886 – and stamped with a Crown, and “P DEC 1886. I rescued it from a rubbish consignment in 1978.

It had no drawers and was coming apart but wasn’t rickety. About 20 years ago I had the table dismantled and re-assembled properly by a skilled artisan furniture-maker. It was not refinished at that time and still has the patina of its entire history. She also made a pair of cedar dovetailed drawers specially compartmentalised for cutlery, placemats etc. Modern glue was used to prevent any joint on the table coming apart again.

Unfortunately the runners on the drawers (and in the table) have now worn considerably and need repair. The runners in the table are very difficult to get to, but not impossible to reach by hand. I only have a couple of millimetres to work with vertically, maybe less, because of the fit of the drawer front in its opening.

My skills:

Impatience
Inability to cut squarely
Can use a very big hammer on rock successfully

I have some tools that I am not skilled at using well. eg:

Chisels, saws, plane, belt sander, orbital sander, electric drill, angle grinder, hammers etc.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

The question:

Can any of you woodworkers recommend a simple repair (preferably one in keeping with the table’s age)?

Well, the big issue with a lot of Australian red cedar drawer runners is that another type of wood is used for the runner itself. They are all harder than red cedar and thus wear out the red cedar drawers. Hence the runners in a red cedar furniture piece, should be made of red cedar.

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

roughbarked said:

esselte said:

Rub a candle up and down the runners and the drawer to fill in all the worn bits and cracked bits with candle wax.

Rub candle on the bottom bits of the drawers that sit on the runners for smooth opening and closing.

Beeswax. or for a dual purpose, use Dubbin.

I just bought a can of dubbin

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

I have an antique Australian Red Cedar desk that I use as a dining table. It was signed by its maker in pencil under the top “J Cochrane October 16 1886”. It was commissioned by the NSW Police Department in December 1886 – and stamped with a Crown, and “P DEC 1886. I rescued it from a rubbish consignment in 1978.

It had no drawers and was coming apart but wasn’t rickety. About 20 years ago I had the table dismantled and re-assembled properly by a skilled artisan furniture-maker. It was not refinished at that time and still has the patina of its entire history. She also made a pair of cedar dovetailed drawers specially compartmentalised for cutlery, placemats etc. Modern glue was used to prevent any joint on the table coming apart again.

Unfortunately the runners on the drawers (and in the table) have now worn considerably and need repair. The runners in the table are very difficult to get to, but not impossible to reach by hand. I only have a couple of millimetres to work with vertically, maybe less, because of the fit of the drawer front in its opening.

My skills:

Impatience
Inability to cut squarely
Can use a very big hammer on rock successfully

I have some tools that I am not skilled at using well. eg:

Chisels, saws, plane, belt sander, orbital sander, electric drill, angle grinder, hammers etc.

………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

The question:

Can any of you woodworkers recommend a simple repair (preferably one in keeping with the table’s age)?

Well, the big issue with a lot of Australian red cedar drawer runners is that another type of wood is used for the runner itself. They are all harder than red cedar and thus wear out the red cedar drawers. Hence the runners in a red cedar furniture piece, should be made of red cedar.

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Well, the big issue with a lot of Australian red cedar drawer runners is that another type of wood is used for the runner itself. They are all harder than red cedar and thus wear out the red cedar drawers. Hence the runners in a red cedar furniture piece, should be made of red cedar.

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

Got you there!

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Well, the big issue with a lot of Australian red cedar drawer runners is that another type of wood is used for the runner itself. They are all harder than red cedar and thus wear out the red cedar drawers. Hence the runners in a red cedar furniture piece, should be made of red cedar.

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

I already take the blame. I need a solution, and have asked for that.

I may have found one, and asked whether anybody here has had experience.

It is no longer possible to replace the table runners, and the drawer runners can only be repaired.

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

I already take the blame. I need a solution, and have asked for that.

I may have found one, and asked whether anybody here has had experience.

It is no longer possible to replace the table runners, and the drawer runners can only be repaired.

Which solution have you found?

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

I already take the blame. I need a solution, and have asked for that.

I may have found one, and asked whether anybody here has had experience.

It is no longer possible to replace the table runners, and the drawer runners can only be repaired.

Which solution have you found?

Duct tape? I suppose it doesn’t matter if tape is running on tape.

Michael V said:

roughbarked said:

Michael V said:

They are red cedar. I think what’s happened is that a wasp has built a sandy nest under the table, and we have unwittingly been gouging the table and drawer runner combination with the sand.

Quite possible but that is alo a part of regularly applying a lubricant. One would notice a wasp nest.

I already take the blame. I need a solution, and have asked for that.

I may have found one, and asked whether anybody here has had experience.

It is no longer possible to replace the table runners, and the drawer runners can only be repaired.

take the drawers to a cabinetmaker to cut off the old, worn runner and then add a new bit of harder wood. replace the runners on the table yourself with harder bits of wood. or pay my airfare and I’ll come and do it.

1950 James Autocycle $1200