Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

mollwollfumble said:

Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

Or a roller door.

Do have a welder and the skills to weld your own metal door? If not I’d be looking at garage door type places.

what about a tilt door or a roller door?

mollwollfumble said:

Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

We just got a quote of $2200 for a front roll up door for our garage (single door). If you do a search for garage doors in your area I’m sure you’ll find a few local suppliers.

mollwollfumble said:

Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

How about French windows to maximise the value of the vista?

PWM advises option B.

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

Tamb said:

mollwollfumble said:

Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

Or a roller door.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltP6eyiSu40

Iris or beaded curtain

Tamb said:

mollwollfumble said:

Question.

I have a hole in the side of my brick garage that is 4020 mm wide and 2650 mm high. ie. big.
The wooden doors there at present are rotten to the point of disintegration and the hinges are bent.

What’s the best replacement?
One person suggested a pair of metal sliding doors. But from where?
One person suggested bricking it up but leaving a normal sized house door.

Or a roller door.

you get much more with a roller door

You could* probably get a second hand roller door pretty cheap via Gumtree or similar. Just need to build a frame around it to fit it into the space.

• could have, a month ago. Will have to wait till after the virus things is over.

party_pants said:

You could* probably get a second hand roller door pretty cheap via Gumtree or similar. Just need to build a frame around it to fit it into the space.

• could have, a month ago. Will have to wait till after the virus things is over.
  

Nah.

They leave the roller door on the driveway.

You rock up, load the door on the ute/trailer, leave the cash on the doorstep, deal done.

first question to ask is, do you need the big opening. go from there.

ChrispenEvan said:

first question to ask is, do you need the big opening. go from there.

Or call it a car port and leave as is.

AwesomeO said:

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

buffy said:

AwesomeO said:

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

Or a grape vine.

Tamb said:

buffy said:

AwesomeO said:

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

Or a grape vine.

I think the whole idea is to keep people out, or at the very least away from, your stuff in the shed.

buffy said:

AwesomeO said:

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

Ivy leaves are poisonous though , so keep the leaves away from your chooks’ watering troughs … for example. I don’t know if you have any chookies though.

monkey skipper said:

buffy said:

AwesomeO said:

Wire and an ivy like plant? That would be the cheapest

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

Ivy leaves are poisonous though , so keep the leaves away from your chooks’ watering troughs … for example. I don’t know if you have any chookies though.

My chooks live around ivy. Behind our block is a big old bluestone stables at the pub. I think if you took the ivy off the structure would fall down. Consequently we have an over abundance of ivy seedlings. I spent half an hour pulling out small ivy plants this morning. You have to keep doing it or it takes over the place. But in the chook run none survive. I suspect the chooks eat the seeds. Or perhaps they just scratch them around so much they don’t get a chance to grow.

buffy said:

monkey skipper said:

buffy said:

And good habitat for the creepy crawlies…

:)

(Or maybe something useful, like a passionfruit vine)

Ivy leaves are poisonous though , so keep the leaves away from your chooks’ watering troughs … for example. I don’t know if you have any chookies though.

My chooks live around ivy. Behind our block is a big old bluestone stables at the pub. I think if you took the ivy off the structure would fall down. Consequently we have an over abundance of ivy seedlings. I spent half an hour pulling out small ivy plants this morning. You have to keep doing it or it takes over the place. But in the chook run none survive. I suspect the chooks eat the seeds. Or perhaps they just scratch them around so much they don’t get a chance to grow.

The latter mostly. Chooks could probably pass them through without harm anyway.

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

> first question to ask is, do you need the big opening. go from there.

We have needed those doors in the past. We took a full-sized water tank through them. Great for wheeling concrete in wheelbarrows into the back yard. But haven’t needed them for the past 5 years, mostly because I don’t dare try to open them any more.

So I’m open to both options – big doors or just person-sized door.

> a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

Hmm. I could do that. I don’t have a welder for serious metalwork.

> Ivy or bead curtain.

No. Must be waterproof, and enough windproof that it stops the interior of the garage being filled with dust each week.

> You could* probably get a second hand roller door pretty cheap via Gumtree or similar. Just need to build a frame around it to fit it into the space.

That’s an idea. But quality of second hand roller door worries me. I have a second hand tilt-a-door with big rust holes through it. Wouldn’t use that.

> PWM advises option B.

Noted, that’s what I had planned until next door neighbour suggested metal sliding door. What cost for bricks and bricklayer for 10 square metres?

What do farm barns use these days?

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

Bi – Fold with pot plants either side of the entry plus some overhead string of light bulbs across the garden space would add a country faerie cottage feel to that part of your garden with super functional doors to jazz up the space as well.

mollwollfumble said:

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

> first question to ask is, do you need the big opening. go from there.

We have needed those doors in the past. We took a full-sized water tank through them. Great for wheeling concrete in wheelbarrows into the back yard. But haven’t needed them for the past 5 years, mostly because I don’t dare try to open them any more.

So I’m open to both options – big doors or just person-sized door.

> a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

Hmm. I could do that. I don’t have a welder for serious metalwork.

> Ivy or bead curtain.

No. Must be waterproof, and enough windproof that it stops the interior of the garage being filled with dust each week.

> You could* probably get a second hand roller door pretty cheap via Gumtree or similar. Just need to build a frame around it to fit it into the space.

That’s an idea. But quality of second hand roller door worries me. I have a second hand tilt-a-door with big rust holes through it. Wouldn’t use that.

> PWM advises option B.

Noted, that’s what I had planned until next door neighbour suggested metal sliding door. What cost for bricks and bricklayer for 10 square metres?

What do farm barns use these days?

Farms barns.. mostly big steel doors on rollers

You could give the bricklaying a go yerself.

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

Bi – Fold with pot plants either side of the entry plus some overhead string of light bulbs across the garden space would add a country faerie cottage feel to that part of your garden with super functional doors to jazz up the space as well.

monkey skipper said:

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

The biggest question Moll, is how often do you use that doorway? Do you open both doors wide so you can drive a car or trailer through it? If you need those doors to open and clear that space then metal frames doors or roller doors may be the thing (depending on the height you need because the roller is going to take up a bit of it.
Metal sliding doors mean you can only open one door at time. So you only get half the width.

If you don’t need those doors to drive a vehicle through and need only a person size door, then get a new door, or even a pair of doors, build a timber frame to hang them, then build a timber frame to fill in the rest of the hole, and clad it with fibre-cement or metal sheeting.

Bi – Fold with pot plants either side of the entry plus some overhead string of light bulbs across the garden space would add a country faerie cottage feel to that part of your garden with super functional doors to jazz up the space as well.

make some accordion style doors if you have the tools and skills.

or –

https://www.mydeal.com.au/2-44-3-3-6-4m-rustic-classic-sliding-barn-double-door-hardware-track-kit-roller-1245341

Ian said:

mollwollfumble said:

Noted, that’s what I had planned until next door neighbour suggested metal sliding door. What cost for bricks and bricklayer for 10 square metres?

What do farm barns use these days?

Farms barns, mostly big steel doors on rollers

You could give the bricklaying a go yourself.

Thanks a million. Where do they get big steel doors on rollers? Any idea?

Yes, time is not critical, so I would like to give the bricklaying a go. Perhaps with a handyman helper if I can find one.

> Bi – Fold with pot plants either side of the entry plus some overhead string of light bulbs across the garden space would add a country faerie cottage feel to that part of your garden with super functional doors to jazz up the space as well.

I already have the back fence painted in the style of Mondrian, that jazzes the space up a bit.

As it stands at present, if I decided to steal fire engines than I could fit four in the back yard (it’s sloping concrete) and a fifth in the garage.

Or, if you only use the doors infrequently, you could build removable panels which bolt/unbolt into place. It might be a 15 minute job to put them up or take them down so you wouldn’t do it every day, but the option is there is you require it.

monkey skipper said:

or –

https://www.mydeal.com.au/2-44-3-3-6-4m-rustic-classic-sliding-barn-double-door-hardware-track-kit-roller-1245341

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

could buy some heavy T&G (tongue and groove) flooring timber, make a nice project, it’s beautiful to work with, easy to cut if have sharp handsaw, more satisfying than circular saw etc

most difficult part is it’d be quiet heavy all screwed together, so’d be quite an effort getting it up there in position, possibly dangerous too and don’t want to hear of you being crushed or losing toes, not on my suggestion anyway, hence the liability disclaimer buried in the caution

transition said:

could buy some heavy T&G (tongue and groove) flooring timber, make a nice project, it’s beautiful to work with, easy to cut if have sharp handsaw, more satisfying than circular saw etc

most difficult part is it’d be quiet heavy all screwed together, so’d be quite an effort getting it up there in position, possibly dangerous too and don’t want to hear of you being crushed or losing toes, not on my suggestion anyway, hence the liability disclaimer buried in the caution

quiet heavy

of course that’d be quite heavy wouldn’t it, though I guess quiet heavy is possible, heaviness is generally quiet, except when it lands on you, or an appendage or something

mollwollfumble said:

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

Hold on, this might be more the thing I’m looking for, if I go with a sliding door.

transition said:

transition said:

could buy some heavy T&G (tongue and groove) flooring timber, make a nice project, it’s beautiful to work with, easy to cut if have sharp handsaw, more satisfying than circular saw etc

most difficult part is it’d be quiet heavy all screwed together, so’d be quite an effort getting it up there in position, possibly dangerous too and don’t want to hear of you being crushed or losing toes, not on my suggestion anyway, hence the liability disclaimer buried in the caution

quiet heavy

of course that’d be quite heavy wouldn’t it, though I guess quiet heavy is possible, heaviness is generally quiet, except when it lands on you, or an appendage or something

add seismic stuff, and avalanches, trees falling, yeah I guess lots of heaviness is not quiet, where some energy is released, transformed or whatever

mollwollfumble said:

monkey skipper said:

or –

https://www.mydeal.com.au/2-44-3-3-6-4m-rustic-classic-sliding-barn-double-door-hardware-track-kit-roller-1245341

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

Standard set of doors is something more like this:

You’d need to email a few shed manufacturers to see if they sell doors and rails separately, and in what sizes. But like I said, you lose half the width with these types of doors.

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

monkey skipper said:

or –

https://www.mydeal.com.au/2-44-3-3-6-4m-rustic-classic-sliding-barn-double-door-hardware-track-kit-roller-1245341

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

Standard set of doors is something more like this:

You’d need to email a few shed manufacturers to see if they sell doors and rails separately, and in what sizes. But like I said, you lose half the width with these types of doors.

Excellent. But now I see what you mean by losing half the width – the vertical steel pole in the middle.

Solid doors and gates and operable walls (like roll-a-doors) are going to be expensive, but there’s cheap options that might do the job for now. If it’s the only access to the back yard there’s no way I would brick it up.

I thinking semi-permanent or removable timber or steel frame, in one section or several, that’s removable by pulling a sliding bolt or unscrewing a bracket. Cover the frame with whatever cladding material you like.

mollwollfumble said:

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

Standard set of doors is something more like this:

You’d need to email a few shed manufacturers to see if they sell doors and rails separately, and in what sizes. But like I said, you lose half the width with these types of doors.

Excellent. But now I see what you mean by losing half the width – the vertical steel pole in the middle.

No, there is no pole. One door slides in front of (or behind) the other, opening only half the space at a time. They overlap in the middle but there is no post. If you want the full opening you’d need to build a top and bottom rail extending outwards.

mollwollfumble said:

party_pants said:

mollwollfumble said:

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

Standard set of doors is something more like this:

You’d need to email a few shed manufacturers to see if they sell doors and rails separately, and in what sizes. But like I said, you lose half the width with these types of doors.

Excellent. But now I see what you mean by losing half the width – the vertical steel pole in the middle.

What?

Is that door inside the backyard? You could even get one of those outside blinds that they use on verandahs at cafes to fill the gap.

buffy said:

Is that door inside the backyard? You could even get one of those outside blinds that they use on verandahs at cafes to fill the gap.

Yes. They make those to fit.

mollwollfumble said:

monkey skipper said:

or –

https://www.mydeal.com.au/2-44-3-3-6-4m-rustic-classic-sliding-barn-double-door-hardware-track-kit-roller-1245341

Those aren’t for use on real barns. Those are arty expensive doors that are no bigger than normal person-size doors.

I did find this, but it looks overkill. https://helaform.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/solutions_helaform_brochure_300500_sliding-door.pdf

yeah but they look pretty! :-)

A pair of synchronized two-wing revolving doors would fit nicely there…

https://www.boonedam.com/product/high-capacity-revolving-door/twintour

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

I could have both: person-sized door and large door. Like these.

Is the Kool Aid man going to help pay for the damages he created

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

party_pants said:

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

Might need some counterweights (or assistance springs or gas struts) engineered into the design.

party_pants said:

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

>shakes head sadly<

God damn white people and their friggen renovations…

Nothing – I repeat nothing – about this structure is built to support a 4.2 × 2.4 roof.

You need to stop crowd-sourcing ideas, Moll.

Rule 303 said:

party_pants said:

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

>shakes head sadly<

God damn white people and their friggen renovations…

Nothing – I repeat nothing – about this structure is built to support a 4.2 × 2.4 roof.

You need to stop crowd-sourcing ideas, Moll.

I crowd sourced how to hang the hammock and you guys probably saved my life or at least a serious injury.

Arts said:

Rule 303 said:

party_pants said:

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

>shakes head sadly<

God damn white people and their friggen renovations…

Nothing – I repeat nothing – about this structure is built to support a 4.2 × 2.4 roof.

You need to stop crowd-sourcing ideas, Moll.

I crowd sourced how to hang the hammock and you guys probably saved my life or at least a serious injury.

No worries.

there might be a local chippy/ handy man you can get to just put in a new set of wooden doors

all you need to do then is apply some wood preservative and paint

make sure you give a good coat to the bottom or water will rot it out from below,

I have another suggestion for you, Moll:

Cut the bottom 50mm of the existing doors. That will get rid of 80% of the rot and allow them to swing clear of the ground.

Remove the rotten boards and replace them with new timber.

Bang a couple of dozen nails and some glue into the existing frame to shore it up – If the joints look knackered, whack bearer plates over them.

Give the whole thing a good sand and prime and coat of paint.

Two days of work + two hundred bucks and they’ll be good for another ten years.

Rule 303 said:

party_pants said:

How about a door that is hinged at the top and can swing upwards to provide a shade for your table and chairs…?

>shakes head sadly<

God damn white people and their friggen renovations…

Nothing – I repeat nothing – about this structure is built to support a 4.2 × 2.4 roof.

You need to stop crowd-sourcing ideas, Moll.

Already have an umbrella for table and chairs anyway.

Crowd sourcing is great for “brainstorming”. Jumping out of a fixed mindset. Change of paradigm. As well as involving people who know a heck of a lot more about big doors than I do.

Rule 303 said:

I have another suggestion for you, Moll:

Cut the bottom 50mm of the existing doors. That will get rid of 80% of the rot and allow them to swing clear of the ground.

Remove the rotten boards and replace them with new timber.

Bang a couple of dozen nails and some glue into the existing frame to shore it up – If the joints look knackered, whack bearer plates over them.

Give the whole thing a good sand and prime and coat of paint.

Two days of work + two hundred bucks and they’ll be good for another ten years.

Shakes head slowly.

That might have worked 10 years ago, possibly not even then. Now the rot is waist high and the hinges are irrevocably bent on both sides.

Bought the person door. Went for a heavy style. Too heavy?

Will then use that to mark the edge of bricks in a brick pillar I’m going to put in.

Should suffice for the bottom part. Putting in lintels and high up bricks may be a bit tougher.

Then roller door part. Will be the same as a typical single car roller door. But still big enough to roll the 2m*2m water tank through.

mollwollfumble said:

Bought the person door. Went for a heavy style. Too heavy?

Will then use that to mark the edge of bricks in a brick pillar I’m going to put in.

Should suffice for the bottom part. Putting in lintels and high up bricks may be a bit tougher.

Then roller door part. Will be the same as a typical single car roller door. But still big enough to roll the 2m*2m water tank through.

Hey Moll
Brett here , we’ve meet before at QBV I believe .
I see you’ve bought a door already don’t do anything , ring me first. 0466 226 197
What type of door have you bought ? few standard 820s are suitable for your application . You will also need a infill panel above .
Also not keen on your idea of an isolated brick pier . Too high not to be restrained at the top.
You have a nice big opening , remember you cant use what you haven’t bought ie your choice of door configuration will affect performance and max opening .
In a 4.0m opening you have room to put in a pedestrian gate then have 3.0m for a double or roller to take a 2.0m tank , This will require an intermediate post . Keep in mind a hinged door and a roller door are supported in different planes relative to your external wall .
All types of doors and gates have + & -‘s (way too much typing)
Very briefly
Tilta Door cheap but your 4.0 is a bit big
Panel lift compromises internal storage looses about 350-400 head height , gets expensive at 4.0m, no pedestrian access
Roller Door , looses 400 head height , gets expensive at 4.0m, no pedestrian access fixes to inside of external wall
Sliders , not for you as one side has nowhere to go . Also counting up the bricks either side it looks like you have a 80 or so mm fall to fence , lastly at that size they will have a bottom track .. no wheeling your water tank.
T&G timber door too heavy (probably 80kgs each leaf in a double) and frame a custom
Bifolds don’t like fall in , has a track and low security . Yes track can be set down into concrete but they fill up with crap.
Horizontal aluminium slat door/double gate combo ticks a lot of boxes for you , but not a DYI fabrication solution .
Ring before you put your hand in your pocket.
Brett

Forgot to add
before you go a Roller door check its open head height for your water tank .
Brett

Thomo said:

mollwollfumble said:

Bought the person door. Went for a heavy style. Too heavy?

Will then use that to mark the edge of bricks in a brick pillar I’m going to put in.

Should suffice for the bottom part. Putting in lintels and high up bricks may be a bit tougher.

Then roller door part. Will be the same as a typical single car roller door. But still big enough to roll the 2m*2m water tank through.

Hey Moll
Brett here , we’ve meet before at QBV I believe .
I see you’ve bought a door already don’t do anything , ring me first. 0466 226 197
What type of door have you bought ? few standard 820s are suitable for your application . You will also need a infill panel above .
Also not keen on your idea of an isolated brick pier . Too high not to be restrained at the top.
You have a nice big opening , remember you cant use what you haven’t bought ie your choice of door configuration will affect performance and max opening .
In a 4.0m opening you have room to put in a pedestrian gate then have 3.0m for a double or roller to take a 2.0m tank , This will require an intermediate post . Keep in mind a hinged door and a roller door are supported in different planes relative to your external wall .
All types of doors and gates have + & -‘s (way too much typing)
Very briefly
Tilta Door cheap but your 4.0 is a bit big
Panel lift compromises internal storage looses about 350-400 head height , gets expensive at 4.0m, no pedestrian access
Roller Door , looses 400 head height , gets expensive at 4.0m, no pedestrian access fixes to inside of external wall
Sliders , not for you as one side has nowhere to go . Also counting up the bricks either side it looks like you have a 80 or so mm fall to fence , lastly at that size they will have a bottom track .. no wheeling your water tank.
T&G timber door too heavy (probably 80kgs each leaf in a double) and frame a custom
Bifolds don’t like fall in , has a track and low security . Yes track can be set down into concrete but they fill up with crap.
Horizontal aluminium slat door/double gate combo ticks a lot of boxes for you , but not a DYI fabrication solution .
Ring before you put your hand in your pocket.
Brett

before you go a Roller door check its open head height for your water tank .

Water tank will fit, 2070*1900.

Oops, only just saw your post. Have just finished installing the 820 wide person door. (PS, mismeasured the width as 835 but fixed that now, really is 820).

> Too high not to be restrained at the top.

Will be constrained at the top. It already has a steel beam across the whole 4.0 metres of the original design. I can brick up to that, and/or laterally support with a steel lintel below that. I’m still uncertain whether to use brick or fill-in timber above the doors. I Think I’ll go with a 230*350 brick pillar, stronger than a 230*230 brick pillar.

> Roller Door , looses 400 head height

Yes. I’ve assumed the loss of 450 in head height. That brings the height and width of the roller door down to very close to the standard size for a single roller door. Height down to 2645-450 = 2195. The width comes from 4020-820-40-350-clearance = 2810 – clearance.

> Also counting up the bricks either side it looks like you have a 80 or so mm fall to fence

Whoa!, need to check that ASAP, thanks. OK, Checked. There is some fall, but it’s mostly level overall, falling and rising about 10 mm or so in places. You had me worried there for a moment.

Thanks a million. Will call.

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

poikilotherm said:

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

Arts said:

poikilotherm said:

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

Ring before you dig.

Peak Warming Man said:

Arts said:

poikilotherm said:

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

Ring before you dig.

There’s no fun in that PWM.

Arts said:

poikilotherm said:

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

That will take them a while

Arts said:

poikilotherm said:

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

get them to do a Victory Garden.

Cymek said:

Arts said:

poikilotherm said:

Probs some cleaning the gene pool could use, no?

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

That will take them a while

time, we got.

Arts said:

Cymek said:

Arts said:

I mean, sure.. but speaking of pools, maybe I should have the kids start one in the backyard….

That will take them a while

time, we got.

Months and months.

Start by digging a tunnel. Tunnels are fun.

Arts said:

reading this thread makes me wonder if accidents will increase due to people doing more stuff and DYI at home… unsupervised or trying to attempt stuff that they would normally bring in a professional for.. (not you specifically moll, just in general)

That’s what I thought. But the people at the hardware store are getting fewer customers than normal. I like to support those shops that stay open, help them through these hard times.

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

Since you all want to know. LOL.

It’s nearly finished. I built two new doors inside the old door, separated by a brick pillar, without removing the existing wooden doors. In the following image, the right hand old wooden door is open showing the new door and brick pillar inside. The left hand side was supposed to have a roller door inside last Friday, but the installer insisted I do some mods to the mortar on thje brick pillar first.

As for the panel with 5 vertical struts, top left, I built it well then had to completely dismantle it because the inner supports were so close to the ends that I couldn’t get a screwdriver in to bolt it to the brickwork. Then reassemble with new support positions.

mollwollfumble said:

mollwollfumble said:

transition said:

This is what it looks like now. As I say, big hole.

Since you all want to know. LOL.

It’s nearly finished. I built two new doors inside the old door, separated by a brick pillar, without removing the existing wooden doors. In the following image, the right hand old wooden door is open showing the new door and brick pillar inside. The left hand side was supposed to have a roller door inside last Friday, but the installer insisted I do some mods to the mortar on thje brick pillar first.

As for the panel with 5 vertical struts, top left, I built it well then had to completely dismantle it because the inner supports were so close to the ends that I couldn’t get a screwdriver in to bolt it to the brickwork. Then reassemble with new support positions.

Nice bit of brickwork.