I need to stick a powder-coated steel gate post to a brick wall. The post is 1.5 metres long.
I stuck it using a thick bead of cheap silicone the full length.
A few weeks later it fell off. The silicone stayed on the brick but came cleanly off the full length of steel.
I can’t roughen the steel with sandpaper or it will rust. Help please.
mollwollfumble said:
I need to stick a powder-coated steel gate post to a brick wall. The post is 1.5 metres long.I stuck it using a thick bead of cheap silicone the full length.
A few weeks later it fell off. The silicone stayed on the brick but came cleanly off the full length of steel.
I can’t roughen the steel with sandpaper or it will rust. Help please.
There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
roughbarked said:
mollwollfumble said:
I need to stick a powder-coated steel gate post to a brick wall. The post is 1.5 metres long.I stuck it using a thick bead of cheap silicone the full length.
A few weeks later it fell off. The silicone stayed on the brick but came cleanly off the full length of steel.
I can’t roughen the steel with sandpaper or it will rust. Help please.
There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:
mollwollfumble said:
I need to stick a powder-coated steel gate post to a brick wall. The post is 1.5 metres long.I stuck it using a thick bead of cheap silicone the full length.
A few weeks later it fell off. The silicone stayed on the brick but came cleanly off the full length of steel.
I can’t roughen the steel with sandpaper or it will rust. Help please.
There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
Keep your eye out for the ad. He makes a tape as well. They are waterproof and can be put on under water.
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:
mollwollfumble said:
I need to stick a powder-coated steel gate post to a brick wall. The post is 1.5 metres long.I stuck it using a thick bead of cheap silicone the full length.
A few weeks later it fell off. The silicone stayed on the brick but came cleanly off the full length of steel.
I can’t roughen the steel with sandpaper or it will rust. Help please.
There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach.
You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck.
Boris is your man.
Building glue (Liquid Nails etc) lasts outside for 4 + years and can be used to glue glass to brick (which is what you are trying to do).
Peak Warming Man said:
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach.
You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck.
Boris is your man.
Yes dynabolted brackets. :)
Peak Warming Man said:
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:There’s some yank on my TV advertises rubberised glue. Seems like powerful stuff.
Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach.
You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck.
Boris is your man.
I agree with you, but perhaps moll has reasons why it can’t be bracketed.
roughbarked said:
Peak Warming Man said:
mollwollfumble said:Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach.
You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck.
Boris is your man.Yes dynabolted brackets. :)
I suppose it des depend on your brickwork. How old is it? When the air/con huy was installing this newfangled recycling thingo, he was drilling into the mortar and I called him a lazy bastid but he unrelentingly insisted that he wasn’t waiting around all day to drill into the actual brick. Besides, if the drill hits the hole inside the brick, it can crack the brick.
Michael V said:
Peak Warming Man said:
mollwollfumble said:Expensive in such quantities, I suspect.
I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach.
You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck.
Boris is your man.I agree with you, but perhaps moll has reasons why it can’t be bracketed.
Yeah, old melbourne bricks may fall to pieces and anyway the bolts would and should go right through the bricks and be tensioned from the other side.
Don’t glue or bolt it to a brick wall. Bolt it down to the ground.
fsm said:
Don’t glue or bolt it to a brick wall. Bolt it down to the ground.
That’s good advice.
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
Michael V said:
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
True indeed.
try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Bogsnorkler said:
try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Inherently difficult.
> I think gluing a steel post to a brick wall is not the right approach. You need something more robust like a couple of clamps and drill into the brickwork and use masonary screws or some suck. … dynabolted brackets
Bracket, didn’t think of that. :-) Good idea.
I found after buying that gate that the brick walls either side aren’t vertical, there is about 2 cm clearance at the bottom of the gate and pretty close to zero at the top. So very little chance of of a bracket at the top, but I’ll look into it. I have some steel offcut that might do.
Mrs m came up with the idea of taking the cap off the post, drilling through inside into the wall and then screwing in place, eg. using rawl plugs. And then replacing the cap on the post.
> Building glue (Liquid Nails etc) lasts outside for 4 + years and can be used to glue glass to brick (which is what you are trying to do).
Excellent, I was hoping you’d say that.
> Don’t glue or bolt it to a brick wall. Bolt it down to the ground.
It is bolted to the ground. It could be those bolts that are pulling it off the wall, but I don’t think so. The ground isn’t level, so I need to make a wedge to go underneath.
Masonry anchor sleeves provide the best way to attach a gate to brick.
https://www.hunker.com/12492816/diy-guide-to-attaching-a-fence-gate-to-brick
Heaps of images on – fitting a steel gate post to a brick wall.
https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=fitting+a+steel+gate+post+to+a+brick+wall
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
True indeed.
Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
True indeed.
Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
Bolting is what you need to consider
glues wont be strong enough over time
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
True indeed.
Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
Far better. Car panels are glued on using it. stronger than the parent metal.
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:
Michael V said:
If the gate is swinging from the post, no glue will hold it for long.
True indeed.
Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
It is the rubberised stuff I was talking about.
Tau.Neutrino said:
Masonry anchor sleeves provide the best way to attach a gate to brick.
Im not saying that’s the best way.
thats wot the website said
https://www.hunker.com/12492816/diy-guide-to-attaching-a-fence-gate-to-brick
you may find a better way
If you’re determined to use a glue type attachment, try Sikaflex 252, clean the post and brick with Sikaflex Colma first.
roughbarked said:
mollwollfumble said:
roughbarked said:True indeed.
Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
It is the rubberised stuff I was talking about.
…but I think sinking the pole in cement and bolting it to the wall would last longer
Ogmog said:
roughbarked said:
mollwollfumble said:Yes. The gate will be swinging from the post. It fell off when there was no load on it, which is somewhat frightening.
> try sikaflex. but bricks aren’t the best surface.
Ta. That’s better than liquid nails isn’t it?
It is the rubberised stuff I was talking about.
…but I think sinking the pole in cement and bolting it to the wall would last longer
Better still, add some sand, gravel, and water to the cement and it will be much stronger.
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
I wouldn’t be willing to offer an opinion on suitable fixatives without a LOT more information, including photos.
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Good advice.
Ian said:
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
Actually that’s much more like my FIL.
My father was a specialist carpenter. He specialised in making any length of timber just right for the job by the simple addition of araldite and more timber.
Ian said:
My father was a specialist carpenter. He specialised in making any length of timber just right for the job by the simple addition of araldite and more timber.
That’s not a thing.
Ian said:
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
well, duct tape is pretty good.
Rule 303 said:
Ian said:
My father was a specialist carpenter. He specialised in making any length of timber just right for the job by the simple addition of araldite and more timber.
That’s not a thing.
It’s true :)
Is there a way of anchoring the post to the ground as well as the wall? Some concreted in footing or a mounting bracket bolted into concrete… or similar. Rather than having all the weight hanging off the wall.
Could you not brick up the opening a find an alternate way in?
Ian said:
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
A roll of bolts!
mollwollfumble said:
It is bolted to the ground. It could be those bolts that are pulling it off the wall, but I don’t think so. The ground isn’t level, so I need to make a wedge to go underneath.
I think the curvature of the earth can be overcome over a small section of the said earth with a spade or a shovel.
Ian said:
Could you not brick up the opening a find an alternate way in?
Singly connected mazes are too easy. This is triply connected.
mollwollfumble said:
Ian said:
Could you not brick up the opening a find an alternate way in?
Singly connected mazes are too easy. This is triply connected.
Well you could thread the maze with something light, strong.. of remarkable composition.
TRD would no doubt suggest an incredible string band.
maybe you can just pour flour all over the post and wait for it to rain…
or use wheat box and milk… nothing gets that shit off once it has dried.
Arts said:
maybe you can just pour flour all over the post and wait for it to rain…or use wheat box and milk… nothing gets that shit off once it has dried.
Arts said:
Arts said:
maybe you can just pour flour all over the post and wait for it to rain…or use wheat box and milk… nothing gets that shit off once it has dried.
- bix….
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYCM2Xlx-ko
Bogsnorkler said:
Arts said:
Arts said:
maybe you can just pour flour all over the post and wait for it to rain…or use wheat box and milk… nothing gets that shit off once it has dried.
- bix….
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYCM2Xlx-ko
ha,, I was thinking about that after an earlier comment.
Ian said:
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
The star of “TOOL TIME”
always said; “If You Can’t Fix It, Duct It!” :-D
Ogmog said:
Ian said:
Arts said:
my dad always said, if you don’t do a job right the first time, don’t cry when you are trapped underneath the debris.
Mine said there’s nothing you can’t bang together with baling twine, a scrap of wire or some duct tape.
The star of “TOOL TIME”
always said; “If You Can’t Fix It, Duct It!” :-D
ChemSet
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.
Man, this metal is tough.
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
be hard steel, did some in sheep yards other day
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Did you drill a pilot hole?
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Did you drill a pilot hole?
Should get Bill to do that.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Did you drill a pilot hole?
Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
Michael V said:
sibeen said:
Michael V said:Did you drill a pilot hole?
Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
Must be frustrating getting old that you need that kind of help.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
Most wise.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
when i was doing some work for artrage i happened to see some of the other guys trying to do some drilling. a 20mm hole through a RSJ. no pilot. i watched for a little while as they struggled to make a start. i guess if i had waited long enough they might have melted a hole through.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:Should get Bill to do that.
Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
It seemed like a Boris joke…
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Use a bracket.
Michael V said:
sibeen said:
Michael V said:Boris?
No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
It seemed like a Boris joke…
Bugger, have I stooped so low.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
It seemed like a Boris joke…
Bugger, have I stooped so low.
Yep.
Pilot…Bill.
sibeen said:
Michael V said:
sibeen said:No, I mean Bill aka Spiny Norman.
I wouldn’t trust Boris to guide me to the toilet.
It seemed like a Boris joke…
Bugger, have I stooped so low.
snigger
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
A bracket is probably the better option. You have TWO points of fastening with a bracket rather than one for a post.
If the brickwork is slightly crumbly have a look at chemset bolts.
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Snapping drill bits is due to inexperience and poor technique.
Dark Orange said:
mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Snapping drill bits is due to inexperience and poor technique.
And the solution? Please.
I’m drilling at a steep angle because the chuck interferes with the other side of the post. Also, the metal blunts drills in about 10 seconds, so I have to push hard. I’m using a block of wood to stop the drill skidding sideways because of the angle, and the drill is even bighting into the wood sideways rather than going forward.
Help!
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Snapping drill bits is due to inexperience and poor technique.
And the solution? Please.
I’m drilling at a steep angle because the chuck interferes with the other side of the post. Also, the metal blunts drills in about 10 seconds, so I have to push hard. I’m using a block of wood to stop the drill skidding sideways because of the angle, and the drill is even bighting into the wood sideways rather than going forward.
Help!
Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
Dark Orange said:
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:Snapping drill bits is due to inexperience and poor technique.
And the solution? Please.
I’m drilling at a steep angle because the chuck interferes with the other side of the post. Also, the metal blunts drills in about 10 seconds, so I have to push hard. I’m using a block of wood to stop the drill skidding sideways because of the angle, and the drill is even bighting into the wood sideways rather than going forward.
Help!
Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:
mollwollfumble said:And the solution? Please.
I’m drilling at a steep angle because the chuck interferes with the other side of the post. Also, the metal blunts drills in about 10 seconds, so I have to push hard. I’m using a block of wood to stop the drill skidding sideways because of the angle, and the drill is even bighting into the wood sideways rather than going forward.
Help!
Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
Dear oh dear.
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:mollwollfumble said:
Snapped two drills today trying to drill through the fence post so I could screw it to the brick wall. Then gave up.Man, this metal is tough.
Snapping drill bits is due to inexperience and poor technique.
And the solution? Please.
I’m drilling at a steep angle because the chuck interferes with the other side of the post. Also, the metal blunts drills in about 10 seconds, so I have to push hard. I’m using a block of wood to stop the drill skidding sideways because of the angle, and the drill is even bighting into the wood sideways rather than going forward.
Help!
What steel? Galvanised?
Have you never heard of using a bit of kero on the drill bit?
Sounds like you need those drill bits they advertise on TV that will drill through everything at once.
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
the post is hollow. instead of either taking post off wall, which seems to be the easiest as it is being fixed to it, or drilling a hole through both walls.
Bogsnorkler said:
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
the post is hollow. instead of either taking post off wall, which seems to be the easiest as it is being fixed to it, or drilling a hole through both walls.
should add the “instead” bit. He is drilling at an angle through the wall of the post closest to the wall opf the house. a silly idea.
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
As group participation projects go, this one has proven remarkably successful at demonstrating something, but I’m not sure what. Have you got a methods statement for this, Moll? Are you going to tell us what you’re looking at?
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:
Dark Orange said:Drill a straight pilot hole first, and an optional intermediary size. Treat each side of the post as a separate hole. This will go a long way to solving your problems.
The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
Actually, DO’s post gives me the clue I need to fix this. And someone else followed up.
Then reassemble doing three things at once:
When all has dried, put the dynabolt nuts on to lock it to the ground
Then cut a slot in the cap to go over the post and the screw that goes into the brick. And hope that the cap goes back on.
Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?
mollwollfumble said:
Michael V said:Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?
If drilling steel, keeping your drill bit from overheating is the primary goal.
Don’t try drilling at the fastest speed and by pressing so hard that you jam and break your drill bit.
Drill at a slow speed. At a constant pressure. Allow the drill bit to follow all previous pilot holes. Yes, it does not hurt to drill the same hole three or four times with progressively bigger sizes until the goal of hole size is reached.
The centre pop mark, the pilot hole drill bit, the upsizing slowly rather than rapidly but overall do not overheat the drill bit.
One way to avoid this is by usng the lid of a kero bottle filled with kero to constantly dip the bit into the kero to keep the bit cool.
mollwollfumble said:
Michael V said:
mollwollfumble said:The hole goes from the inside of the post to the outside. The brick wall is in the way of drilling from the outside in.
Photos might help us understand.
Actually, DO’s post gives me the clue I need to fix this. And someone else followed up.
- Disassemble the ruddy thing completely, first.
- Drill into the post at right angles from outside.
- Drill into brickwork at an angle. And insert plastic rawl plug.
Then reassemble doing three things at once:
- Make a flat pad of cement mortar for the post to sit on
- Run two beads of liquid nails behind the post
- Then put the post back and screw through into the brick to hold it all together until everything dries.
- Meanwhile making sure to keep the mortar that is coming up through the base holes away from the dynabolt screw thread.
When all has dried, put the dynabolt nuts on to lock it to the ground
Then cut a slot in the cap to go over the post and the screw that goes into the brick. And hope that the cap goes back on.Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?
acts as a cutting lube. keeps the bit a little cooler. oil etc works just as well.
Bogsnorkler said:
mollwollfumble said:
Michael V said:Photos might help us understand.
Actually, DO’s post gives me the clue I need to fix this. And someone else followed up.
- Disassemble the ruddy thing completely, first.
- Drill into the post at right angles from outside.
- Drill into brickwork at an angle. And insert plastic rawl plug.
Then reassemble doing three things at once:
- Make a flat pad of cement mortar for the post to sit on
- Run two beads of liquid nails behind the post
- Then put the post back and screw through into the brick to hold it all together until everything dries.
- Meanwhile making sure to keep the mortar that is coming up through the base holes away from the dynabolt screw thread.
When all has dried, put the dynabolt nuts on to lock it to the ground
Then cut a slot in the cap to go over the post and the screw that goes into the brick. And hope that the cap goes back on.Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?
acts as a cutting lube. keeps the bit a little cooler. oil etc works just as well.
You can buy cutting oil or drill lubricant but the purists will tell you that slowly and carefully wins the race.
First step. Always start with a sharp drill. Do not bother with an old drill bit unless you have always practised good drill bit maintenance.
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?
if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
transition said:
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
mollwollfumble said:
transition said:
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
Well done.
mollwollfumble said:
transition said:
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
Sounds like a big job well jobbed.
Bubblecar said:
mollwollfumble said:
transition said:
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
Well done.
Maybe we could now repurpose the thread into something concerning bicycle repair.
mollwollfumble said:
transition said:
>Is that advice about putting kero on the drill genuine? Or is it meant to create a fireball?if it’s a small job and slow drilling generally not worth extra mess, but it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which i’m sure you’re aware
keeping a drill bit 90 degrees on to a surface with a portable drill is often a challenge, as is keeping the pressure near centre, steady and equal so as not to bend the drill bit, or slip, and of hard steel the challenge is greater
patience is required, a steady hand, and finesse with the pressure
if it’s a cheap drill bit it could be the hard steel post is near hard as the drill bit, in which case the post, or object attempted to be drilled, is a drill bit bluntener
> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
All too easy
sibeen said:
Bubblecar said:
mollwollfumble said:> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
Well done.
Maybe we could now repurpose the thread into something concerning bicycle repair.
I think there actually was a bike repair thread…
sibeen said:
Bubblecar said:
mollwollfumble said:> it’s not uncommon for an oil with a detergent (insert proper name) or whatever to help heat transfer and carry the cut metal away, which I’m sure you’re aware
I wasn’t aware, I’ve only seen that used on lathes. I tried some sump oil on the drill.
Job done. It went like clockwork, almost. After agonising over it for weeks.
Only changes were that I used two screws into rawl plugs to hold the top rather than one, and the screws were low enough that I didn’t have to cut slots in the metal cap on top.
So – five things all at once. Make mortar pad, put two beads of liquid nails the full length of the post, put in place and secure with two screws at top, tighten up four dynabolts at bottom, and loosen the top screws just enough to make a gap to put the metal cap on with a mallet.
All done. The gate post is now held by four dynabolts on a flat mortar pad, two screws into rawl plugs in brick at top, two beads of liquid nails full length, and one nail (propping it up temporarily to stop it tilting sideways).
Only mistake was getting liquid nails on my favourite saw, which took a bit of cleaning off but is now clean.
Well done.
Maybe we could now repurpose the thread into something concerning bicycle repair.
I was just about to stamp this one as FILE CLOSED
