Hey guys,
i have been thinking about getting a Ph Test Kit for my garden to find ph of the garden beds etc game across these two on the seed company i buy from over the internet.

Link 1:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=484

Link 2:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=253

Please tell me the differnce they both about the same price i just need some help. p.s i already have termometer.

I am thinking link one which is the one you stick into the ground.

veg gardener said:

Hey guys,
i have been thinking about getting a Ph Test Kit for my garden to find ph of the garden beds etc game across these two on the seed company i buy from over the internet.

Link 1:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=484

Link 2:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=253

Please tell me the differnce they both about the same price i just need some help. p.s i already have termometer.

I’ve only ever used the second one, or one a bit like it. You take some soil samples from different spots in the garden, mix them together in a bucket, then get about a teaspoon full out, put it on a flat thingy, drip the pH test solution onto it, then squirt the pH test powder onto it, and compare the colour that you get with a card, the colour tells you the pH of the soil.

Has anyone here ever used the meter type that you stick in the soil? How accurate is it?

I have the second one. I have heard that the first type is not very accurate.

bluegreen said:

I have the second one. I have heard that the first type is not very accurate.

ok how many times can u use the second one??

veg gardener said:

bluegreen said:

I have the second one. I have heard that the first type is not very accurate.

ok how many times can u use the second one??

you get a lot of uses out of it. I’ve had mine for years and still got plenty of the stuff left. You don’t need to use a lot of the reagents each time and once you have an idea of what your soil is you don’t really need to do it again very often.

veg gardener said:

bluegreen said:

I have the second one. I have heard that the first type is not very accurate.

ok how many times can u use the second one??

The bottle of liquid and bottle of powder seem quite small, but you only need a few drops of the liquid and a little squirt of the powder for each test you use. I bought a kit a couple of years ago for about $20 and only used it a couple of times, I guess it’s still in the shed and okay to use.

first things first, as i like some order in my head :)

i’ve had both ph test kits…and both indicate the ph range sufficiently accurately for gardening purposes, when used properly. i am by no means an authority on ph test meters. here’s my account:

the probe type meter is not bad but has a major fault in construction. the instructions state that you should twist the probe into the soil BUT doing so ends up breaking off the wires attached inside the probe. the reason being that a very small section of the aluminium probe/pipe has been flattened (with pliers or such) which is not sufficient to stop it twisting around in the flimsy plastic casing. several twists and the wires twist off….and you always get a perfect 7.0 reading. you could easily remedy this problem by unscrewing the casing when the meter is still new/working, and secure the rod with suitable device/adhesive to prevent it from movement. the one thing that’s needed for using this test kit is adequate moisture, as it will not give a good/any reading in dry(ish) soil.

the chemical reaction kit is a little messy and cumbersome to use, and you should follow the instructions precisely. Someone mentioned mixing soil samples to get an average reading. i think it’s better to test each sample separately, to make accurate assessment of soil acidity/alkalinity, especially if different types of soil are involved. mixing up soil samples for a test produces an average reading…whereas the plants aren’t growing in the average ph soil; instead they’re growing in the soils with the specific ph readings of individual sites. to better illustrate my ramblings an extreme example can be considered where, one side of the yard sits in always moist conditions producing a very low ph. on the other side of the yard a raised bed with bought soil mixed with some beach sand may have a high ph reading. mixing the samples will produce a false indication that the site has a balanced ph of about 7.0. The disadvantage of the chemical reaction test kit is its useful lifetime, with the chemical agents going stale in about 2 years. However this isn’t likely to be a concern with either test kit unless the soil needs regular long term ph regulation, which most soils don’t. in the case of extremely acidic or highly alkaline soil, initial large scale soil replacement or amelioration is undertaken, and regular additions of compost and (irregular additions of) dolomite help to balance the ph towards neutral. Alternative being to use existing soil conditions with plants that will manage in those conditions. What i’m trying to say is that it’s a good idea to test soil ph when finding out about the soil you have but, most ph test kits gather dust thereafter.

there is a third alternative, being many times the expense of a ph meter though. if you’re serious about growing own food on soil unknown/suspected of pollution, then a professional soil test will give ph readings, TOC (Total Organic Content – how much organic matter in soil) readings, and readings for all the major minerals including heavy metals. Such extensive tests tell you exactly what’s in the soil, and what’s needed. i haven’t used such a service yet. I think a residential backyard (size) test of this nature would cost approx $150. You get some vials to fill with soil samples and send in to the lab. someone correct me if i’m wrong on pricing etc. It may seem overkill. But you probably save quite a lot of money by buying exactly what the soil needs (in terms of fertilizers/minerals) instead of continually guessing and overdoing fertilizers just to be sure.

sorry about my writing style (or lack thereof) as i try to lay out things as clearly as i can. i know it usually comes across as “speaking from the altar.” take from it what you will.

night all
Yeehah said:

veg gardener said:

Hey guys,
i have been thinking about getting a Ph Test Kit for my garden to find ph of the garden beds etc game across these two on the seed company i buy from over the internet.

Link 1:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=484

Link 2:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=253

Please tell me the differnce they both about the same price i just need some help. p.s i already have termometer.

I’ve only ever used the second one, or one a bit like it. You take some soil samples from different spots in the garden, mix them together in a bucket, then get about a teaspoon full out, put it on a flat thingy, drip the pH test solution onto it, then squirt the pH test powder onto it, and compare the colour that you get with a card, the colour tells you the pH of the soil.

Has anyone here ever used the meter type that you stick in the soil? How accurate is it?

aquarium said:

the chemical reaction kit is a little messy and cumbersome to use, and you should follow the instructions precisely. Someone mentioned mixing soil samples to get an average reading. i think it’s better to test each sample separately, to make accurate assessment of soil acidity/alkalinity, especially if different types of soil are involved.

I’m in complete agreement. When I do my hort consults, I test 3-4 different samples from different areas of the client’s garden as a standard part of the consult, more on request. (Lifespan of chemical is no issue for me as mine is lucky to last a year!) If they have a fairly new limestone wall, or any new retaining wall with mortar for that matter, I will test near it to see how much lime is leaching out and how much it is affecting soil alkalinity nearby. You can find a pH reading of 9-10 next to the wall and 5-6 three feet away!

I agree on the messy part too…I wonder if that is how we gardeners got our nickname of greenthumbs…as the fluid leaves a green stain on you. I often return from a consult with at least one green thumb and sometimes a couple of fingers too! Takes a couple of days to fade too!

aquarium said:

there is a third alternative, being many times the expense of a ph meter though. if you’re serious about growing own food on soil unknown/suspected of pollution, then a professional soil test will give ph readings, TOC (Total Organic Content – how much organic matter in soil) readings, and readings for all the major minerals including heavy metals. Such extensive tests tell you exactly what’s in the soil, and what’s needed. i haven’t used such a service yet. I think a residential backyard (size) test of this nature would cost approx $150. You get some vials to fill with soil samples and send in to the lab. someone correct me if i’m wrong on pricing etc. It may seem overkill. But you probably save quite a lot of money by buying exactly what the soil needs (in terms of fertilizers/minerals) instead of continually guessing and overdoing fertilizers just to be sure.

It may even be more around the $200 mark or above, Aquarium. I know it is very expensive. I suppose it would probably be a good idea for me to find out in case someone asks me how much.

Thanks for the informations guys. =)

sorry about my writing style (or lack thereof) as i try to lay out things as clearly as i can. i know it usually comes across as “speaking from the altar.” take from it what you will.
———-
its a pretty earthy altar – full explanations are rare but appreciated.

Hey VG. I recommend a Manutec Ph test kit.
My last one lasted for about 7-8 years i reckon.
I used a small plastic container to store it in as the cardboard packet it comes in tends to break apart over time.

Longy said:

Hey VG. I recommend a Manutec Ph test kit.
My last one lasted for about 7-8 years i reckon.
I used a small plastic container to store it in as the cardboard packet it comes in tends to break apart over time.

ok thanks longy for ur help

I agree absolutely with Longy. :)

veg gardener said:

Hey guys,
i have been thinking about getting a Ph Test Kit for my garden to find ph of the garden beds etc game across these two on the seed company i buy from over the internet.

Link 1:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=484

Link 2:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=253

Please tell me the differnce they both about the same price i just need some help. p.s i already have termometer.

I have a powder and liquid pH kit…… makes me feel very CSI…..LOL

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

Hey guys,
i have been thinking about getting a Ph Test Kit for my garden to find ph of the garden beds etc game across these two on the seed company i buy from over the internet.

Link 1:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=484

Link 2:http://cornucopiaseeds.com.au/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_49&products_id=253

Please tell me the differnce they both about the same price i just need some help. p.s i already have termometer.

I have a powder and liquid pH kit…… makes me feel very CSI…..LOL

yes it would

aquarium said:

sorry about my writing style (or lack thereof) as i try to lay out things as clearly as i can. i know it usually comes across as “speaking from the altar.” take from it what you will.

that was a clear and comprehensive analysis of the systems, aquarium. I found it helpful to hear from someone’s experience who has tried both types.

The powder and liquid is accurate, and I agree with everyone, it is messy and can be expensive if the messy bit ends up in the bottom of your workbucket because some dingbat forgot to screw the top on properly…

I have had one of the long skinny probey things and they are a waste of time… When I was in Townsville, I scored from Globe a short fat stocky pH probe, and it looked like an oversized pencil with a stainless steel end. I initially used this is the same area of soil that I would powder and liquid test and the fat probe was accurate. It was solid and easy enough to fit into the pocket of your work pants and you could pull it out and jab it into all sorts of piles and the timber yard and nursery…. And it was tough… You just needed to keep the end clean beetween probes…

I also scored a little baby telescope which when you stuck some leaf or vegetable matter into the end, you could then see a reading through the telescope thing… This could tell you about the sugars and I think Nitrogen in the plant, and it would overtime, give you a good representation on how well your fertiliser was being picked up by the turf or the plants.

I no longer have both tools, but they would good information fun!

pain master said:

The powder and liquid is accurate, and I agree with everyone, it is messy and can be expensive if the messy bit ends up in the bottom of your workbucket because some dingbat forgot to screw the top on properly…

I have had one of the long skinny probey things and they are a waste of time… When I was in Townsville, I scored from Globe a short fat stocky pH probe, and it looked like an oversized pencil with a stainless steel end. I initially used this is the same area of soil that I would powder and liquid test and the fat probe was accurate. It was solid and easy enough to fit into the pocket of your work pants and you could pull it out and jab it into all sorts of piles and the timber yard and nursery…. And it was tough… You just needed to keep the end clean beetween probes…

I also scored a little baby telescope which when you stuck some leaf or vegetable matter into the end, you could then see a reading through the telescope thing… This could tell you about the sugars and I think Nitrogen in the plant, and it would overtime, give you a good representation on how well your fertiliser was being picked up by the turf or the plants.

I no longer have both tools, but they would good information fun!

thanks sound interseting PM.

aquarium (not me) ph test kits (meant for water testing only) have a much better/clearer reading for precise ph levels. i found the coloring of the chemical reagent soil test kit hard to read.

the probe ph test kit that has the construction requiring reinforcement is the cheapie ($15) with plastic housing. if you want to get right into this sort of thing, there’d be proper (and much more expensive) tools that do a much better job of it.

before i forget…if anyone wants to know what the acidity/alkalinity actually is..it’s nothing more than the relative concentration of hydrogen ions in the matter. a lot of hydrogen ions means acidic. there’s a related fact that states that a soil frequently rained on will tend towards acidic, which has something to do with the exchange of the said hydrogen ions in the soil/water solution.

when people say that particular plant is a lime or acidic soil lover…it means that the plant requires the ph in that range to obtain the proper amounts of minerals it needs. different soil ph levels affect the availability of minerals, and certain plants are more affected by the wrong ph causing mineral deficiencies. lime induced clorosis – usually iron deficiency – being a common case in point.

i never had one
i just ask around and people will say ‘its about….5-6’ or whatever.
i add lime before peas, brassicas and beans – sometimes books will recommend to ‘sweeten’ the soil for other crops and i will add a bit of lime. the organic matter (manures and straw mulch) seems to be slightly acidic so i’ve never added sulphur and use pine needles if i see a need for acid.
fairly slack but i bet its a fairly common approach.
gardening is an art not a science.

yes indeed it’s easy to get lost in the science of it all. i still think it’s useful for initial assessment of the soil. thereafter observation (and correct interpretation) is important. however i cannot help myself but to think that there must have been a mineral deficiency of sorts in my soil regardless of the compost/manures/seaweed/etc that i’ve been putting in. this is because i’m seeing a huge difference in the health of vegies growing now which got the benefit of a dose of azomite…which is just a (broad range) mineral clay. my eggplants did not want to grow more or ripen until i added the said azomite. this is straying far from the initial question of ph test kits…..nevertheless you are quite right in pointing out that focusing too much on scientific detail can become consuming. but i still think there’s a place for science to help grow better vegies/plants….otherwise we’d be left with nothing to give us some useful checks and balances.

as a total aside regards arts and science…..painters have always been mindful of some basic science or rules of thumb when creating their masterpieces. for instance the rule of thirds, and the golden ratio are used quite often. even probably the most powerfully felt art, music, is intricately entwined with mathematics. of course if you discover a naturally green thumb, forget the science.

as a total aside regards arts and science…..painters have always been mindful of some basic science or rules of thumb when creating their masterpieces. for instance the rule of thirds, and the golden ratio are used quite often. even probably the most powerfully felt art, music, is intricately entwined with mathematics. of course if you discover a naturally green thumb, forget the science.
——
you are right about science as well – if the leaves are turning yellow and you don’t know why then its best to analyse the problem bit by bit until the problem can be isolated.
i think of PM’s recent photo of the boat when i think of art – PM was sufficiently alert to notice the colours, textures and unusual combinations of elements when he snapped that shot – that alertness surpasses science in its state of mind – it isn’t set on moribund detail but is elevated to capture an instant of beauty.
long live art ! (- and true science too).

pepe said:

as a total aside regards arts and science…..painters have always been mindful of some basic science or rules of thumb when creating their masterpieces. for instance the rule of thirds, and the golden ratio are used quite often. even probably the most powerfully felt art, music, is intricately entwined with mathematics. of course if you discover a naturally green thumb, forget the science.
——
you are right about science as well – if the leaves are turning yellow and you don’t know why then its best to analyse the problem bit by bit until the problem can be isolated.
i think of PM’s recent photo of the boat when i think of art – PM was sufficiently alert to notice the colours, textures and unusual combinations of elements when he snapped that shot – that alertness surpasses science in its state of mind – it isn’t set on moribund detail but is elevated to capture an instant of beauty.
long live art ! (- and true science too).

it’s right brained vs left brained too.

Mr BG is a medical technician. He repairs and maintains medical equipment. Essentially a left brained, science & maths sort of job. But he has an edge on the other technicians in that he has a very active “intuition” or right brained activity that allows him to make an intuitive diagnosis that seems to defy technical science! When the others have been struggling for days to solve a problem he can come up and fix it in a matter of hours.

very active “intuition” or right brained activity that allows him to make an intuitive diagnosis that seems to defy technical science! When the others have been struggling for days to solve a problem he can come up and fix it in a matter of hours.
———-
yes thats a good example.
scientist have now announced their ‘parallel universes / rope theories’ – and i can’t help but think it took a power of ‘intuition’ to dream up those theories.