Anyone have any advice on how I might stop plants/shrubs from suckering? I know how they get started and that’s to do with my resident garden guru digging around the root zones. We have suckers coming from 4 different Alamandas. The crepe myrtles. The gardenias. The Punicas. etc. etc.

We often get them from the Wisteria but I glypho them because Wisterias are hard to kill but I can’t be that drastic with the others I’ve mentioned. Or can I? I don’t want to kill the main plant though. What’s your suggestions please?

pomolo said:

Anyone have any advice on how I might stop plants/shrubs from suckering? I know how they get started and that’s to do with my resident garden guru digging around the root zones. We have suckers coming from 4 different Alamandas. The crepe myrtles. The gardenias. The Punicas. etc. etc.

We often get them from the Wisteria but I glypho them because Wisterias are hard to kill but I can’t be that drastic with the others I’ve mentioned. Or can I? I don’t want to kill the main plant though. What’s your suggestions please?

with the Crepe Myrtles, I’ve always just kept on pruning back the suckers. Some of the roots tend to give up after a while… only to be replaced by others elsewhere…

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

painmaster said:

pomolo said:

Anyone have any advice on how I might stop plants/shrubs from suckering? I know how they get started and that’s to do with my resident garden guru digging around the root zones. We have suckers coming from 4 different Alamandas. The crepe myrtles. The gardenias. The Punicas. etc. etc.

We often get them from the Wisteria but I glypho them because Wisterias are hard to kill but I can’t be that drastic with the others I’ve mentioned. Or can I? I don’t want to kill the main plant though. What’s your suggestions please?

with the Crepe Myrtles, I’ve always just kept on pruning back the suckers. Some of the roots tend to give up after a while… only to be replaced by others elsewhere…

Now that’s very helpful PM. I’m so glad I asked.

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

chuckle – ain’t it true.

i have experience of passionfruit going berko – and i prune my figs and quinces back to 2 main branches each year – but this ain’t no subtropical queens country.
to destroy rampant raspberry here in adelaide – just withdraw summer irrigation.

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

Teach him the benefits of no-dig gardening.

justin said:

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

chuckle – ain’t it true.

i have experience of passionfruit going berko – and i prune my figs and quinces back to 2 main branches each year – but this ain’t no subtropical queens country.
to destroy rampant raspberry here in adelaide – just withdraw summer irrigation.

Yeah, raspberries are too easy to kill. :(

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

after 40 years? What kind of trade-in are you expecting?

painmaster said:

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

after 40 years? What kind of trade-in are you expecting?

Very little I expect. About as much as I’d get. Zilch!

I don’t know if it works with suckers, but I read many years ago about pulling off rather than cutting the stuff off the side of trunks. I keep my Buddleia trunks clear by pulling, not cutting. It seems to work quite well. I have tried it with the suckers on the lilacs, and I think it works a bit. I try to do it also with the shoots off the rootstock on roses (which is in all likelihood what I was reading about all those years ago!). I do think it works fairly well with that.

So maybe try just pulling, not cutting?

pomolo said:

Anyone have any advice on how I might stop plants/shrubs from suckering? I know how they get started and that’s to do with my resident garden guru digging around the root zones. We have suckers coming from 4 different Alamandas. The crepe myrtles. The gardenias. The Punicas. etc. etc.

We often get them from the Wisteria but I glypho them because Wisterias are hard to kill but I can’t be that drastic with the others I’ve mentioned. Or can I? I don’t want to kill the main plant though. What’s your suggestions please?

Choose plants that don’t sucker in the first place?

Sorry but once they’ve started I don’t know of any way to stop them except for as you say, Glyphosate, which might kill the mother plant.

painmaster said:

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

I have always regretted working in nurseries that grew ornamental exotic trees. So many of them can become weedy thickets that survive long after those who planted them have passed on. It is up to you, if you want these plants in your garden just set your lawnmower on the lowest setting and have a woody lawn.

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

after 40 years? What kind of trade-in are you expecting?

My D jokes that when I turn 42 he’ll trade me in for two 21 year olds. Maybe Pom can trade in her D for two blokes half his age? ;)

buffy said:

I don’t know if it works with suckers, but I read many years ago about pulling off rather than cutting the stuff off the side of trunks. I keep my Buddleia trunks clear by pulling, not cutting. It seems to work quite well. I have tried it with the suckers on the lilacs, and I think it works a bit. I try to do it also with the shoots off the rootstock on roses (which is in all likelihood what I was reading about all those years ago!). I do think it works fairly well with that.

So maybe try just pulling, not cutting?

correct.

roughbarked said:

buffy said:

I don’t know if it works with suckers, but I read many years ago about pulling off rather than cutting the stuff off the side of trunks. I keep my Buddleia trunks clear by pulling, not cutting. It seems to work quite well. I have tried it with the suckers on the lilacs, and I think it works a bit. I try to do it also with the shoots off the rootstock on roses (which is in all likelihood what I was reading about all those years ago!). I do think it works fairly well with that.

So maybe try just pulling, not cutting?

correct.

though you are talking about shoots, not suckers. It stilll applies to roots in that cutting them increases the chance of them suckering.

Suckering also occurs where no top dressing occurs other than the natural leaf fall and even that has an effect on suckering. Natural suckering occurs more often where the soil can dry out and crack. When the roots are close to the surface.

buffy said:

I don’t know if it works with suckers, but I read many years ago about pulling off rather than cutting the stuff off the side of trunks. I keep my Buddleia trunks clear by pulling, not cutting. It seems to work quite well. I have tried it with the suckers on the lilacs, and I think it works a bit. I try to do it also with the shoots off the rootstock on roses (which is in all likelihood what I was reading about all those years ago!). I do think it works fairly well with that.

So maybe try just pulling, not cutting?

I will give it a try Buffy. Some of them certainly can’t be pulled without upsetting the main roots again but it cn’t get any worse.

hortfurball said:

painmaster said:

pomolo said:

Most of the plants are in garden beds so they don’t get mowed. I think you are both trying to tell me that I can’t get rid of the suckers. If that’s the case I’ll just have to get rid of the person in this house that causes them all in the first place. LOL.

after 40 years? What kind of trade-in are you expecting?

My D jokes that when I turn 42 he’ll trade me in for two 21 year olds. Maybe Pom can trade in her D for two blokes half his age? ;)

I think not. I can’t handle the one I have.

roughbarked said:

buffy said:

I don’t know if it works with suckers, but I read many years ago about pulling off rather than cutting the stuff off the side of trunks. I keep my Buddleia trunks clear by pulling, not cutting. It seems to work quite well. I have tried it with the suckers on the lilacs, and I think it works a bit. I try to do it also with the shoots off the rootstock on roses (which is in all likelihood what I was reading about all those years ago!). I do think it works fairly well with that.

So maybe try just pulling, not cutting?

correct.

Do you have to be really strong for that to work? I’ve pulled as hard as I can on the plumbago suckers from next door.. I just end up with sore muscles and sore hands (yes, with gloves on). Or is it different for different kinds of suckering plants?

Having said that, I’m going to finally poison the thing. Two bachelors live next door now and I don’t know if it’s happened by accident or on purpose, but there’s very little plumbago left on their side of the fence – probably more of it on my side now! =/

Different plants are different, in my experience. I have suckering elms and mostly I can just pull the suckers out. Sometimes, however, they resist mightily. Ever heard of an elm lawn…….? we had one of those, but constant mowing has (nearly) knocked them off after more than 10 years. I know..it’s not a very comforting thought, is it.

:)

I’ve read all the posts and I guess I’ll muddle along as I have always done. Thanks for all the imput.

pomolo said:

I’ve read all the posts and I guess I’ll muddle along as I have always done. Thanks for all the imput.

As we do, we all muddle along as we always have. The only way to change that is to make drastic life changing decisions. If the neighbours apparently agree, then maybe the plumbago has reached the end of its usefulness. Maybe a new way lies in say a Banksia or perhaps any native plant of your choice which is surely going to be less like an alien in your garden. As for pulling shoots off, easy or hard, this relates mainly to the age of the shoot. There exists a certain age which varies plant to plant where the wood hardens beyond the average mortal’s capability to do damage by hand alone. I pull shoots many tens of thousands of times per day and I can assure you that the window is small indeed. When the shoot is young enough a mere sidways pressure between thumb and forefinger will tear the entire bud out of the bark. This stops all chance of more shoots reoccurring. If you simply cut it off(depending upon the species) many new shoots may occur ringing the original shoot, sometimes hundreds. Continual rubbing of these shoots will eventually stop them coming while ever there is an apical dominant bud at the top of the plant. The minute the apical dominance is hindered by cutting or bending this tip, all possible shoots down the stem will make an attempt to be the first one back to the apex. This also includes any possibility of suckering from the roots. Many of you will have observed say a claret ash revert to the desert ash rootstock. This is simply due to the fact that somehow, the apical dominance has been compromised enough for the rootstock to take over. Gardening can be very physically difficult for all of us which is why so many tools have been designed and manufactured to make controlling the triffids less difficult. It is unfortunate that there was little realisation of the fact that if every plant was tended by hand while soft and in full growth vigor, that much of the machinery would be redundant.

roughbarked said:

pomolo said:

I’ve read all the posts and I guess I’ll muddle along as I have always done. Thanks for all the imput.

As we do, we all muddle along as we always have. The only way to change that is to make drastic life changing decisions. If the neighbours apparently agree, then maybe the plumbago has reached the end of its usefulness. Maybe a new way lies in say a Banksia or perhaps any native plant of your choice which is surely going to be less like an alien in your garden. As for pulling shoots off, easy or hard, this relates mainly to the age of the shoot. There exists a certain age which varies plant to plant where the wood hardens beyond the average mortal’s capability to do damage by hand alone. I pull shoots many tens of thousands of times per day and I can assure you that the window is small indeed. When the shoot is young enough a mere sidways pressure between thumb and forefinger will tear the entire bud out of the bark. This stops all chance of more shoots reoccurring. If you simply cut it off(depending upon the species) many new shoots may occur ringing the original shoot, sometimes hundreds. Continual rubbing of these shoots will eventually stop them coming while ever there is an apical dominant bud at the top of the plant. The minute the apical dominance is hindered by cutting or bending this tip, all possible shoots down the stem will make an attempt to be the first one back to the apex. This also includes any possibility of suckering from the roots. Many of you will have observed say a claret ash revert to the desert ash rootstock. This is simply due to the fact that somehow, the apical dominance has been compromised enough for the rootstock to take over. Gardening can be very physically difficult for all of us which is why so many tools have been designed and manufactured to make controlling the triffids less difficult. It is unfortunate that there was little realisation of the fact that if every plant was tended by hand while soft and in full growth vigor, that much of the machinery would be redundant.

I get your point RB. I will be more diligent in the future.

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

pomolo said:

I’ve read all the posts and I guess I’ll muddle along as I have always done. Thanks for all the imput.

As we do, we all muddle along as we always have. The only way to change that is to make drastic life changing decisions. If the neighbours apparently agree, then maybe the plumbago has reached the end of its usefulness. Maybe a new way lies in say a Banksia or perhaps any native plant of your choice which is surely going to be less like an alien in your garden. As for pulling shoots off, easy or hard, this relates mainly to the age of the shoot. There exists a certain age which varies plant to plant where the wood hardens beyond the average mortal’s capability to do damage by hand alone. I pull shoots many tens of thousands of times per day and I can assure you that the window is small indeed. When the shoot is young enough a mere sidways pressure between thumb and forefinger will tear the entire bud out of the bark. This stops all chance of more shoots reoccurring. If you simply cut it off(depending upon the species) many new shoots may occur ringing the original shoot, sometimes hundreds. Continual rubbing of these shoots will eventually stop them coming while ever there is an apical dominant bud at the top of the plant. The minute the apical dominance is hindered by cutting or bending this tip, all possible shoots down the stem will make an attempt to be the first one back to the apex. This also includes any possibility of suckering from the roots. Many of you will have observed say a claret ash revert to the desert ash rootstock. This is simply due to the fact that somehow, the apical dominance has been compromised enough for the rootstock to take over. Gardening can be very physically difficult for all of us which is why so many tools have been designed and manufactured to make controlling the triffids less difficult. It is unfortunate that there was little realisation of the fact that if every plant was tended by hand while soft and in full growth vigor, that much of the machinery would be redundant.

I get your point RB. I will be more diligent in the future.

:) gawd I can spout pompous about rubbing and shooting.

>>Maybe a new way lies in say a Banksia <<

We have suckering Banksia in our bush. A big thicket of it where the bulldozer pushed out the original plant during a bushfire.

Banksia marginata.

It took 5 or 6 years to come back to flowering after obliteration.

buffy said:

Banksia marginata.

It took 5 or 6 years to come back to flowering after obliteration.

nice bit of scrub!

buffy said:

Banksia marginata.

It took 5 or 6 years to come back to flowering after obliteration.

Yeah! I’d say that has suckered. LOL.

pomolo said:

buffy said:

Banksia marginata.

It took 5 or 6 years to come back to flowering after obliteration.

Yeah! I’d say that has suckered. LOL.

Actually if looks rather good there.

buffy said:

>>Maybe a new way lies in say a Banksia <<

We have suckering Banksia in our bush. A big thicket of it where the bulldozer pushed out the original plant during a bushfire.

at least it is a native

Many native species including a number of Banksia, have a lignotuber which regrows after catastrophes like fire or being hacked down.

I’m curious to know how people protect their crops from fruit fly attacks other than with chemicals. D and I are toying with making some sort of dome type cover that could be plonked over our fruit trees when it’s necessary.

Maybe two cross pieces of poly pipe, using ground stakes to slip the pipe over then covering it all with some sort of netting. They would need to be collapseable so we can store them out of season. We have to be careful of costs also. Maybe shade cloth would be a better option to netting. We have used mossie netting in the past but it doesn’t last long. It catches on every twig ond branch too.

I understand that a lot of you don’t have to fight off fruit fly but perhaps you’ve read or know about some sort of structure that’s proven it’s worth in the past.

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

yes

roughbarked said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

yes

However, there is no warranty that these are able to be effective against determined fruit fly. I’ve found fruit fly inside my house. I’ve found fruit fly inside my car.

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

Not sure, but probably.

Orchid40 said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

Not sure, but probably.

It is not unlike bird netting .. which the English Blackbirds walk in under.. and thence get entrapped when startled into flying.

Orchid40 said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

Not sure, but probably.
Oops, sorry, just saw your post RB. They’re determined little blighters aren’t they ?

Orchid40 said:

Orchid40 said:

pomolo said:

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

Not sure, but probably.
Oops, sorry, just saw your post RB. They’re determined little blighters aren’t they ?

Yep. Look to do this, you’d have to be very clinical about making the exclusion fabric align most exclusively.

The B shop

…

Bunnings :)

trichome said:

The B shop

…

Bunnings :)

aka The Big Green Shed, or the Toy Shop :)

bluegreen said:

trichome said:

The B shop

…

Bunnings :)

aka The Big Green Shed, or the Toy Shop :)

waste not want not.. seek ye those who always supplied those needs in your community.

roughbarked said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

Is that the stuff they make those exclusion bags out of. The ones they put on individual fruit I mean.

yes

Understood.

pomolo said:

I’m curious to know how people protect their crops from fruit fly attacks other than with chemicals. D and I are toying with making some sort of dome type cover that could be plonked over our fruit trees when it’s necessary.

Maybe two cross pieces of poly pipe, using ground stakes to slip the pipe over then covering it all with some sort of netting. They would need to be collapseable so we can store them out of season. We have to be careful of costs also. Maybe shade cloth would be a better option to netting. We have used mossie netting in the past but it doesn’t last long. It catches on every twig ond branch too.

I understand that a lot of you don’t have to fight off fruit fly but perhaps you’ve read or know about some sort of structure that’s proven it’s worth in the past.

We went and got some prices on polly pipe and a cross piece as a joiner. Over $200 for the materials to make up 4 individual tree igloos. That’s before we buy any exclusion fabric, shadecloth etc etc. Chemicals are starting to look good.

pomolo said:

pomolo said:

I’m curious to know how people protect their crops from fruit fly attacks other than with chemicals. D and I are toying with making some sort of dome type cover that could be plonked over our fruit trees when it’s necessary.

Maybe two cross pieces of poly pipe, using ground stakes to slip the pipe over then covering it all with some sort of netting. They would need to be collapseable so we can store them out of season. We have to be careful of costs also. Maybe shade cloth would be a better option to netting. We have used mossie netting in the past but it doesn’t last long. It catches on every twig ond branch too.

I understand that a lot of you don’t have to fight off fruit fly but perhaps you’ve read or know about some sort of structure that’s proven it’s worth in the past.

We went and got some prices on polly pipe and a cross piece as a joiner. Over $200 for the materials to make up 4 individual tree igloos. That’s before we buy any exclusion fabric, shadecloth etc etc. Chemicals are starting to look good.

Suss out some sheer curtaining from charity shops?

Happy Potter said:

pomolo said:

pomolo said:

I’m curious to know how people protect their crops from fruit fly attacks other than with chemicals. D and I are toying with making some sort of dome type cover that could be plonked over our fruit trees when it’s necessary.

Maybe two cross pieces of poly pipe, using ground stakes to slip the pipe over then covering it all with some sort of netting. They would need to be collapseable so we can store them out of season. We have to be careful of costs also. Maybe shade cloth would be a better option to netting. We have used mossie netting in the past but it doesn’t last long. It catches on every twig ond branch too.

I understand that a lot of you don’t have to fight off fruit fly but perhaps you’ve read or know about some sort of structure that’s proven it’s worth in the past.

We went and got some prices on polly pipe and a cross piece as a joiner. Over $200 for the materials to make up 4 individual tree igloos. That’s before we buy any exclusion fabric, shadecloth etc etc. Chemicals are starting to look good.

Suss out some sheer curtaining from charity shops?

I’m not sure it would be worth the bother HP. You would only get one season out of it because it’s too flimsy. Anyway that’s what has happened to the mozzie nets we bought for that purpose a couple of years ago. I’ll keep it in mind though.

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

I checked with the B shop on the coast today and they have never heard of it. They even rang other B shops and then some kind of head office. No one has heard of it. I know that Garden Express sell the exclusion bags but I haven’t ever seen the stuff by the roll.

I’m a bit confused because you’d think that Q’ld would have it because FF is rife up this way.

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

I checked with the B shop on the coast today and they have never heard of it. They even rang other B shops and then some kind of head office. No one has heard of it. I know that Garden Express sell the exclusion bags but I haven’t ever seen the stuff by the roll.

I’m a bit confused because you’d think that Q’ld would have it because FF is rife up this way.

greenharvest have exclusion fabric as well as bags (scroll down a bit) all not all sizes are in stock.

bluegreen said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

I checked with the B shop on the coast today and they have never heard of it. They even rang other B shops and then some kind of head office. No one has heard of it. I know that Garden Express sell the exclusion bags but I haven’t ever seen the stuff by the roll.

I’m a bit confused because you’d think that Q’ld would have it because FF is rife up this way.

greenharvest have exclusion fabric as well as bags (scroll down a bit) all not all sizes are in stock.

Good on you BG. I had a peek and I’m storing the information.

Green harvest has exclusion fabric.

Green harvest has exclusion fabric.

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

I checked with the B shop on the coast today and they have never heard of it. They even rang other B shops and then some kind of head office. No one has heard of it. I know that Garden Express sell the exclusion bags but I haven’t ever seen the stuff by the roll.

I’m a bit confused because you’d think that Q’ld would have it beca

Ouse FF is rife up this way

Well I bought mine some years ago I suppose, they might no longer stock it.

Orchid40 said:

pomolo said:

Orchid40 said:

Pom, you can get stuff called Exclusion fabric. It’s very likely what you need. The B shop has it here.

I checked with the B shop on the coast today and they have never heard of it. They even rang other B shops and then some kind of head office. No one has heard of it. I know that Garden Express sell the exclusion bags but I haven’t ever seen the stuff by the roll.

I’m a bit confused because you’d think that Q’ld would have it beca

Ouse FF is rife up this way

Well I bought mine some years ago I suppose, they might no longer stock it.

It’s OK 040. I am not letting it rest there. I’m still on the look out.

One female fruit fly can do a hell of a lot of damage. I’ve killed three this year with one finger.

roughbarked said:

One female fruit fly can do a hell of a lot of damage. I’ve killed three this year with one finger.

Want a few more RB?

pomolo said:

roughbarked said:

One female fruit fly can do a hell of a lot of damage. I’ve killed three this year with one finger.

Want a few more RB?

I’ve more than enough thanks.

Just thought I’d ask.

How do they grow seedless watermelons? Cloning?

pomolo said:

Just thought I’d ask.

How do they grow seedless watermelons? Cloning?

:)
There are seeds in it, they’re just smaller

pomolo said:

Just thought I’d ask.

How do they grow seedless watermelons? Cloning?

hybridisation I’d say. Same with seedless oranges etc. Although I learned the other day that seedless grapes are sprayed with something to produced the desired result. I think that left on their own the grape size is very small so they are sprayed with something that forces larger fruit size without seeds.

Happy Potter said:

pomolo said:

Just thought I’d ask.

How do they grow seedless watermelons? Cloning?

:)
There are seeds in it, they’re just smaller

yep. and not viable.

bluegreen said:

Happy Potter said:

pomolo said:

Just thought I’d ask.

How do they grow seedless watermelons? Cloning?

:)
There are seeds in it, they’re just smaller

yep. and not viable.

Different pollinators. Each seed pack of seedless watermelons will contain a few pollinators. These make seedless melons.

To get seeds, you use a different pollinator.

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

Happy Potter said:

:)
There are seeds in it, they’re just smaller

yep. and not viable.

Different pollinators. Each seed pack of seedless watermelons will contain a few pollinators. These make seedless melons.

To get seeds, you use a different pollinator.

Interesting. We grew 2 types of table melons this year and they are so full of seeds you can’t get a decent mouthful of flesh. Thought I’d investigate seedless for next season.