I am trying to propagate Plumbago cuttings in sand in a well drained tray and some cuttings develop what I think are adequate roots for repotting after six weeks or more.

1. When I repot the rooted cuttings into Hortico general purpose potting mix all of the cuttings so far have died, the leaves wither and get dark colour quite quickly after repotting. The leaves appear to be rotting.

2. For some of the cuttings in sand in the original potting tray the leaves tend to go yellow then shrivel up and go dark and appear to be rotting and I have to cut these dark leaves off.

Can informed people please advise on likely causes and remedies for 1 and 2 above.

Cheers

Can you obtain suckers?

perhaps “damping off” which is a fungal disease which can affect seedlings and cuttings if they are too damp or if there is insufficient air flow. An anti-fungal powder or spray from a nursery will help if this is the case.

bluegreen said:

perhaps “damping off” which is a fungal disease which can affect seedlings and cuttings if they are too damp or if there is insufficient air flow. An anti-fungal powder or spray from a nursery will help if this is the case.

Chamomile tea is good for damping off.

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

perhaps “damping off” which is a fungal disease which can affect seedlings and cuttings if they are too damp or if there is insufficient air flow. An anti-fungal powder or spray from a nursery will help if this is the case.

Chamomile tea is good for damping off.

likes

bluegreen said:

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

perhaps “damping off” which is a fungal disease which can affect seedlings and cuttings if they are too damp or if there is insufficient air flow. An anti-fungal powder or spray from a nursery will help if this is the case.

Chamomile tea is good for damping off.

likes

:) I have grown chamomile as a self sowing annual in my garden for about 40 years. Have to figure out uses for all that chamomile.

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

roughbarked said:

Chamomile tea is good for damping off.

likes

:) I have grown chamomile as a self sowing annual in my garden for about 40 years. Have to figure out uses for all that chamomile.

so you would make a tea then spray on when cooled?

bluegreen said:

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

likes

:) I have grown chamomile as a self sowing annual in my garden for about 40 years. Have to figure out uses for all that chamomile.

so you would make a tea then spray on when cooled?

yes.

Thanks for Camomile tea tip. Will try it. I have cuttings in a tray with a perspex cover to prevent drying out and probably
too wet and poor ventilation for too long even tho I remove cover and let them dry daily.

Re using suckers I do not have any and have read that they usually do not grow as well or flower as well as
Plumbago plants from seeds or cuttings.

Thanks for comments.

After further clarification.
How often would I spray the camomile tea on the cuttings in the propogation tray and
on the repotted cuttings?

I certainly will do this.

Thank you

Ferny89 said:

After further clarification.
How often would I spray the camomile tea on the cuttings in the propogation tray and
on the repotted cuttings?

I certainly will do this.

Thank you

Should only need to spray daily or after waterings but if damping off is occurring then you should also increase ventilation and extend periods between waterings.

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

After further clarification.
How often would I spray the camomile tea on the cuttings in the propogation tray and
on the repotted cuttings?

I certainly will do this.

Thank you

Should only need to spray daily or after waterings but if damping off is occurring then you should also increase ventilation and extend periods between waterings.

One should either use prepared soil mixes or sterilise your own.

I’ve done a bit of reading. Here are some snippets:

• from the Royal Horticultural Society – http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=151

•From wiki – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping_off
Damping off can be prevented or controlled in several different ways. Sowing seeds in a sterilized growing medium can be effective, although fungal spores may still be introduced to the medium, either on the seeds themselves or after sowing (in water or on the wind). Maintaining drier conditions with better air circulation helps prevent the spread of the disease, although it can also prevent or slow down germination. Spraying or drenching the soil with a recommended anti-fungal treatment (such as copper oxychloride) also helps suppress the disease. Homemade solutions (including ones made from chamomile tea or garlic) are used by some gardeners for this purpose.

•from about organic gardening – http://organicgardening.about.com/od/diseases/qt/chamomiledampingoff.htm
If you’d like to ensure that you don’t have any problems with damping off, there are a few things you can do. First off, use sterile seed starting medium and clean pots. Encourage good air circulation by not planting seeds too closely. If possible, use a small oscillating fan to provide additional airflow to your seed starting area.

A weak solution of chamomile tea, misted onto the soil surface with a spray bottle two to three times per week, will help protect seedlings from damping off. Chamomile tea contains anti-fungal properties that offset any pathogens in the soil.

and http://tinyfarmblog.com/tea-and-fungi/

Thanks i will read the articles.

Do i spray the soil or the cutting leaves?

Ferny89 said:

I am trying to propagate Plumbago cuttings in sand in a well drained tray and some cuttings develop what I think are adequate roots for repotting after six weeks or more.

1. When I repot the rooted cuttings into Hortico general purpose potting mix all of the cuttings so far have died, the leaves wither and get dark colour quite quickly after repotting. The leaves appear to be rotting.

2. For some of the cuttings in sand in the original potting tray the leaves tend to go yellow then shrivel up and go dark and appear to be rotting and I have to cut these dark leaves off.

Can informed people please advise on likely causes and remedies for 1 and 2 above.

Cheers

What is your climate like Ferny89? I’m in sub-tropical Q’ld and Plumbago suckers so easily here. Have you tried ground layering it?

Ferny89 said:

Thanks for Camomile tea tip. Will try it. I have cuttings in a tray with a perspex cover to prevent drying out and probably
too wet and poor ventilation for too long even tho I remove cover and let them dry daily.

Re using suckers I do not have any and have read that they usually do not grow as well or flower as well as
Plumbago plants from seeds or cuttings.

Thanks for comments.

Re using suckers I do not have any and have read that they usually do not grow as well or flower as well as
Plumbago plants from seeds or cuttings.>

I don’t think that’s the way it works up this way. Plumbago can be a menace if it’s not kept in check round here.

Ferny89 said:

Thanks i will read the articles.

Do i spray the soil or the cutting leaves?

both.

Plumbago is propagated easily from seed, cuttings and suckers. Sow seed in spring in seedling trays. Use good seedling mix and cover the seeds lightly. Do not allow to dry out. The easiest method of propagation is to remove rooted suckers from the mother plant.

I always thought that whether they’re suckers or cuttings (or heels), they would be true to the mother plant more so than seeds…this is for everything, not just Plumbago…and it’s a bit of a mystery why the suckers would not flower as well as the mother plant?

The only thing I can think of, after Googling the subject, is that you may need to make sure the suckers are “new wood” as apparently the plumbago bears flowers best on “new wood”…

Thanks for all replies.
I am in Melbourne. We have one Plumbago plant that was planted mid last Winter and is now 5 ft high.

What is the difference between semi ripe and old wood suckers?

I have taken the cuttings from growth that was greenish but would snap rather than just bend as advised by one article.

What is semi ripe wood?

I have commenced the Camomile tea therapy LOL.

One cutting was going well with healthy two green leaves and a thick root growth but when I transplanted that from the sand into a pot with
Hotico all purpose potting mix the leaves withered and became black in just a few days.

Is it possible to post photos on this site so you can see what is happening. I assume it was due to mould rather than over watering.

This is a good helpful site.

Thanks again.

to post photos you need to upload them to a host site like Flickr or Photobucket then you can paste the link in here.

Ferny89 said:

I have commenced the Camomile tea therapy LOL.

Is it possible to post photos on this site so you can see what is happening. I assume it was due to mould rather than over watering.

You can upload photos from PhotoBucket or Flickr or similar… some of the others who upload regularly will tell you which is the most “workable” site…

Might let your cuttings get past the 2-leaf stage?

New wood suckers, from what I experienced with my plumbago, are those that have just come up and haven’t even leafed yet…but I’m not real precise with my gardening…

Ferny89 said:

Thanks for all replies.
I am in Melbourne. We have one Plumbago plant that was planted mid last Winter and is now 5 ft high.

What is the difference between semi ripe and old wood suckers?

I have taken the cuttings from growth that was greenish but would snap rather than just bend as advised by one article.

What is semi ripe wood?

I have commenced the Camomile tea therapy LOL.

One cutting was going well with healthy two green leaves and a thick root growth but when I transplanted that from the sand into a pot with
Hotico all purpose potting mix the leaves withered and became black in just a few days.

Is it possible to post photos on this site so you can see what is happening. I assume it was due to mould rather than over watering.

This is a good helpful site.

Thanks again.

Green wood is one difference, hardwood is another. Think along the lines of green stick fracture in the bones of humans in relation to bones that can bend without fracturing. Don’t even go to where bones can clean break.

Yes photos can be linked to here if they are uploaded anywhere on the web.

I’ve commented often on commercial potting mixes and sand.. the fact that there isn’t enough sand in commercial potting mixes.

Dinetta said:

New wood suckers, from what I experienced with my plumbago, are those that have just come up and haven’t even leafed yet…but I’m not real precise with my gardening…

It is a good observation. I’ll digress a little to such a thing, known as green grafting. One may splice two pieces of plant material together and see it start to join together within minutes. This is all about growth vigor. It is due to the fact that all things required for growth are present and active.

roughbarked said:

I’ve commented often on commercial potting mixes and sand.. the fact that there isn’t enough sand in commercial potting mixes.

I have heard that elsewhere as well, that there should be up to half volume of sand in potting mixes.

bluegreen said:

roughbarked said:

I’ve commented often on commercial potting mixes and sand.. the fact that there isn’t enough sand in commercial potting mixes.

I have heard that elsewhere as well, that there should be up to half volume of sand in potting mixes.

It is all about transport costs and price.

You buy the mix for the organic content.. you add the sand. Road building rarely transports road base materials more than 5 kilometres due to the cost of transport. It is why some roads never get fixed.

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

roughbarked said:

I’ve commented often on commercial potting mixes and sand.. the fact that there isn’t enough sand in commercial potting mixes.

I have heard that elsewhere as well, that there should be up to half volume of sand in potting mixes.

It is all about transport costs and price.

You buy the mix for the organic content.. you add the sand. Road building rarely transports road base materials more than 5 kilometres due to the cost of transport. It is why some roads never get fixed.

It is also why numerous sand deposits get raped..

aside – if you’re near a stratco hardware place – you might find small pots of plumbago on sale for $2.50

justin said:

aside – if you’re near a stratco hardware place – you might find small pots of plumbago on sale for $2.50

You can pay much less at a Sunday market. All sorts of weeds in pots $5 a dozen

I was wondering if its the wrong time of year to take cuttings? Perhaps Spring would be better?

bluegreen said:

I was wondering if its the wrong time of year to take cuttings? Perhaps Spring would be better?

Wrong for temperate climates but may be OK in tropical climes.

roughbarked said:

justin said:

aside – if you’re near a stratco hardware place – you might find small pots of plumbago on sale for $2.50

You can pay much less at a Sunday market. All sorts of weeds in pots $5 a dozen

chuckle – we eat weeds too.
I am having similar problems getting buddlejas and abutilon cuttings to sprout..
green wood cuttings is my mental blockage as well. I might try and clarify which bits are best.
I think I will plant straight into prepared soil where they are to grow next. time’s passing and light is fading.

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

I was wondering if its the wrong time of year to take cuttings? Perhaps Spring would be better?

Wrong for temperate climates but may be OK in tropical climes.

ah – this could be the problem.

justin said:

roughbarked said:

bluegreen said:

I was wondering if its the wrong time of year to take cuttings? Perhaps Spring would be better?

Wrong for temperate climates but may be OK in tropical climes.

ah – this could be the problem.

Yes, it is always a problem getting the climate right.

>>I am having similar problems getting buddlejas<<

Surefire method for buddleias…….prune like billy-o, we do a Buddleia Massacre. Now is the time I do it. From the piles of parts, I select long, strong wood and use the sticks to mark plants in the garden. Sure as eggs are eggs, the ones I am using as markers will sprout……

There is one buddleia I can’t get to take though, and that is the sage leaved one. We are massacring the one of them at Casterton on Saturday. It is presently something like 12 ft high (or more) and as wide. I intend to shear it all off at about 2ft (or maybe a little less) and attempt to keep it as a hedge. I’ll try to remember to take photos before and after.

Can’t remember if this was last year or an earlier year…..

Babuschka being annoyed about sitting in front of the massacred ‘trees’. Those plants were all from cuttings and are around 10 years old.

buffy said:

>>I am having similar problems getting buddlejas<<

Surefire method for buddleias…….prune like billy-o, we do a Buddleia Massacre. Now is the time I do it. From the piles of parts, I select long, strong wood and use the sticks to mark plants in the garden. Sure as eggs are eggs, the ones I am using as markers will sprout……

do they show signs of sprouting – now in autumn – or in spring?
thanks for the photo – luv those fences. our buddlejas have been pruned – seriously pruned – but we aren’t ready to massacre yet LOL.

I am not near a Stratco store but will search for discounmted Plumbago plants.

I have repotted another cutting from the sand into Hortico All Purpose Blend Potting Mix
and is has at least held ground for the last week.
Is there any benefit in fertilizing these?
I have Hortico Al purpose Compund Fertlizer in pellets if that would suit.

Thank you

Ferny89 said:

I am not near a Stratco store but will search for discounmted Plumbago plants.

I have repotted another cutting from the sand into Hortico All Purpose Blend Potting Mix
and is has at least held ground for the last week.
Is there any benefit in fertilizing these?
I have Hortico Al purpose Compund Fertlizer in pellets if that would suit.

Thank you

A little slow release fertiliser goes a long way. When growing cuttings I usually apply a light dose of liquid fertiliser of some nature once a week or ten days. The more diluted the more often.

Roughbarked, when I put a few of the Hortico pellets on the first two rooted cuttings that I transplanted
into potting mix in pots they shrivelled up in a few days. Would that be possibly due to the fertilizer burning them or
would the fertilizer be beneficial and not cause that.

Also why do you put fresh cuttings in a sand medium rather than a potting mix?

Cheers

Ferny89 said:

Roughbarked, when I put a few of the Hortico pellets on the first two rooted cuttings that I transplanted
into potting mix in pots they shrivelled up in a few days. Would that be possibly due to the fertilizer burning them or
would the fertilizer be beneficial and not cause that.

Also why do you put fresh cuttings in a sand medium rather than a potting mix?

Cheers

If you are having damping off problems, such things as pellets will grow mould on them. You are only increasing the possibility of damping off. You need to dry things out more.

Sharp sand is clean. Potting mix is full of greeblies(they tell you to wear a mask when opening it).

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

Roughbarked, when I put a few of the Hortico pellets on the first two rooted cuttings that I transplanted
into potting mix in pots they shrivelled up in a few days. Would that be possibly due to the fertilizer burning them or
would the fertilizer be beneficial and not cause that.

Also why do you put fresh cuttings in a sand medium rather than a potting mix?

Cheers

If you are having damping off problems, such things as pellets will grow mould on them. You are only increasing the possibility of damping off. You need to dry things out more.

Sharp sand is clean. Potting mix is full of greeblies(they tell you to wear a mask when opening it).

In addition, Plants that are totting or cuttings that have no roots will not be able to make use of fertiliser pellets.

totting=rotting

Thanks for the replies.

I will try less watering.

What would be the reason for the leaves of the cuttings going yellow.

Also in these times of mild max temps of 17 and filtered sun do I put the cuttings
(the ones that are still unrooted and in sand) in the sun at all and how often do i water them.

I put them in a shed at night to avoid really low temps and possible frost bite.

Thank you.

Ferny89 said:

Thanks for the replies.

I will try less watering.

What would be the reason for the leaves of the cuttings going yellow.

Also in these times of mild max temps of 17 and filtered sun do I put the cuttings
(the ones that are still unrooted and in sand) in the sun at all and how often do i water them.

I put them in a shed at night to avoid really low temps and possible frost bite.

Thank you.

It may be that it is just too cold. I am not sure that full sun is needed so much as soil warmth. If you can provide some gentle warmth under the cuttings such as a heated pad designed for propagation, or even sitting on top of your hot water tank, it might help. You do have to make sure they don’t dry out completely though. Alternative a cold frame (a box with a glass lid that can be partially or completely removed as necessary during the day but provide protection at night) can provide a microclimate in the early stages.

I was also thinking that rather than going from sand to straight potting mix that you make a mixture of half sand and half potting mix which will provide better drainage and reduce the chances of rotting the new roots. A weak liquid fertiliser rather than pellets would be better at this stage too.

Thanks Bluegreen for comments

The cuttings are in sand in separate recesses in a combined tray that has a transparent plastic cover.
The cover has two top openings with sliding flaps.
I have no idea when to have the cover on or off and when to have the top flaps open.
Any opinions
The tray is now sitting on the top of an outdoors gas fired water heater,
The top of the heater is just warm when just pilot burning but does get quite warm
when the heater fires up periodically.

Thanks again.

I think the idea with cuttings, is you attempt to strike as many as you can, because there’s bound to be a percentage failure rate…

Ferny89 said:

Thanks Bluegreen for comments

The cuttings are in sand in separate recesses in a combined tray that has a transparent plastic cover.
The cover has two top openings with sliding flaps.
I have no idea when to have the cover on or off and when to have the top flaps open.
Any opinions
The tray is now sitting on the top of an outdoors gas fired water heater,
The top of the heater is just warm when just pilot burning but does get quite warm
when the heater fires up periodically.

Thanks again.

you use the cover and vents to control temperature and humidity and to provide a transition from a closed protective system to being exposed to the elements to harden off your cuttings once they are showing signs of growth. I cannot really advise you on when to use the vents or remove the cover as it all depends on other conditions as well.

I found when I would grow seedlings on top of a water heater it was helpful to put something under the tray to allow air movement underneath, and you do need to water more frequently as the heat will dry the sand/soil more quickly.

Dinetta said:

I think the idea with cuttings, is you attempt to strike as many as you can, because there’s bound to be a percentage failure rate…

this is true, there will always be some that will die no matter what you do.

The problem is at moment the failure rate is 100%

Cheers all.

Ferny89 said:

The problem is at moment the failure rate is 100%

Cheers all.

Well you have two choices. give up trying or try a different routine.

Ferny89 said:

Thanks for Camomile tea tip. Will try it. I have cuttings in a tray with a perspex cover to prevent drying out and probably
too wet and poor ventilation for too long even tho I remove cover and let them dry daily.

Re using suckers I do not have any and have read that they usually do not grow as well or flower as well as
Plumbago plants from seeds or cuttings.

Thanks for comments.

different routine? ditch the perspex cover. Yes.. toss it in a ditch somewhere.

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

Thanks for Camomile tea tip. Will try it. I have cuttings in a tray with a perspex cover to prevent drying out and probably
too wet and poor ventilation for too long even tho I remove cover and let them dry daily.

Re using suckers I do not have any and have read that they usually do not grow as well or flower as well as
Plumbago plants from seeds or cuttings.

Thanks for comments.

different routine? ditch the perspex cover. Yes.. toss it in a ditch somewhere.

or.. realise that with the perspex cover, you don’t need to water.

Roughbarked thanks for comments.

I have perspex cover and tray and from now on will put it on top of water heater over night
with cover on as it is next to house but wind exposed.
The top of the water heater is only slightly warm with pilot heat burning until burner
fires up to reheat water periodically.

Roughbarked can you give me a suggested total step by step routine of use of cover, watering etc.
I have a push in galvanic water meter. Do I let sand almost dry out before I rewater.

Is it possible to get Plumbago to root and propogate with this setup in these milder temperatures in Melbourne?

Thank you.

Ferny89 said:

Roughbarked thanks for comments.

I have perspex cover and tray and from now on will put it on top of water heater over night
with cover on as it is next to house but wind exposed.
The top of the water heater is only slightly warm with pilot heat burning until burner
fires up to reheat water periodically.

Roughbarked can you give me a suggested total step by step routine of use of cover, watering etc.
I have a push in galvanic water meter. Do I let sand almost dry out before I rewater.

Is it possible to get Plumbago to root and propogate with this setup in these milder temperatures in Melbourne?

Thank you.

I’m just going out for a while.. I should be back within the hour to give more detailed ideas.
Essentially though, with the cover on, the water will not leave the system. It will simply continually recycle within the closed environment.

Sand never completely dries out unless you put it in an oven.

It is possible to chop up plumbago with a shovel on the footpath and it will still grow.

Leaves of my Plumbago cuttings are going gold and shrivelling up so appreciate
advice on dos and dont re watering frequency, use of cover etc, when to have cover on and off.

Ferny89 said:

Leaves of my Plumbago cuttings are going gold and shrivelling up so appreciate
advice on dos and dont re watering frequency, use of cover etc, when to have cover on and off.

I’d suggest ditching the lid or have I already said that?
The atmosphere indoors is usually drier than outdoors but if the plants are not enjoying the humidity under the cover then the best answer is to try without it.
The soil mix needs to almost dry between waterings.

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

Leaves of my Plumbago cuttings are going gold and shrivelling up so appreciate
advice on dos and dont re watering frequency, use of cover etc, when to have cover on and off.

I’d suggest ditching the lid or have I already said that?
The atmosphere indoors is usually drier than outdoors but if the plants are not enjoying the humidity under the cover then the best answer is to try without it.
The soil mix needs to almost dry between waterings.

alternatively, you could try only putting the lid on overnight.

However, it is still the wrong time of year to be trying this.

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

Leaves of my Plumbago cuttings are going gold and shrivelling up so appreciate
advice on dos and dont re watering frequency, use of cover etc, when to have cover on and off.

I’d suggest ditching the lid or have I already said that?
The atmosphere indoors is usually drier than outdoors but if the plants are not enjoying the humidity under the cover then the best answer is to try without it.
The soil mix needs to almost dry between waterings.

What about honey on the part of the cutting that’s going into the mix? Would that help the roots to “take”?

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Ferny89 said:

Leaves of my Plumbago cuttings are going gold and shrivelling up so appreciate
advice on dos and dont re watering frequency, use of cover etc, when to have cover on and off.

I’d suggest ditching the lid or have I already said that?
The atmosphere indoors is usually drier than outdoors but if the plants are not enjoying the humidity under the cover then the best answer is to try without it.
The soil mix needs to almost dry between waterings.

What about honey on the part of the cutting that’s going into the mix? Would that help the roots to “take”?

Honey is antibacterial but I doubt it has giberellins or auxins.

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

I’d suggest ditching the lid or have I already said that?
The atmosphere indoors is usually drier than outdoors but if the plants are not enjoying the humidity under the cover then the best answer is to try without it.
The soil mix needs to almost dry between waterings.

What about honey on the part of the cutting that’s going into the mix? Would that help the roots to “take”?

Honey is antibacterial but I doubt it has giberellins or auxins.

Ah, (copied from here= http://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?194545-Honey-helps-plant-cuttings-get-stared )
>The enzymes are there but the sugars can cause infections. Honey is also weak compared to rooting hormone. The sugars can help feed the cutting since they are simple sugars, But this is why they are so good at transferring the bacteria to the plant. Although using honey thusly is a double edged sword, it still has benefit if the application is done correctly.

Create a syrup similar to to how we feed our bees, but make it fairly dilute, perhaps 5 parts water to 1 part honey. (depends on honey and plant). Allow cutting to stand in mixture for 2-3 hours to allow nutrients to be absorbed.

Replace cutting into clean water and let stand for 15 minutes, then plant into appropriate rooting soil.

The honey has trace amounts of the necessary minerals and ash (principly the B vitamin structures). The nutrient only needs to be absorbed into the stem, you don’t want the honey to be sitting against the plant, it can burn the plant.

As far as fungi and bacteria are concerned, you are more than likely to contract a yeast infection which is more benificial than harmful, the yeast converting the sugars into carbon dioxide and then in 1 or 2 days, the yeast will maximize population and start to die off providing even more b vitamins and nitrogen.

Done properly this can be a win win situation. <

Just because I copied off the internet, it doesn’t mean I believe it is a proven fact.

I’d prefer to recommend soaking in a dilute solution of seaweed extract or weak tea colour liquid manure. I’ve found both of these actually work. I’ll get back to you when I test the honey one.

roughbarked said:

“… … … “
Just because I copied off the internet, it doesn’t mean I believe it is a proven fact.

I’d prefer to recommend soaking in a dilute solution of seaweed extract or weak tea colour liquid manure. I’ve found both of these actually work. I’ll get back to you when I test the honey one.

Long may you contribute to this Forum, RoughBarked!!

$1 a bag of stabled HP (Horse Poo) sounds good to me…you would need to let it cool off after you got it home, possibly pile it on some weeds you wish to kill…the stabled stuff has HPee in it and this is little better than liquid urea…I killed some roses this way…

Dinetta said:

$1 a bag of stabled HP (Horse Poo) sounds good to me…you would need to let it cool off after you got it home, possibly pile it on some weeds you wish to kill…the stabled stuff has HPee in it and this is little better than liquid urea…I killed some roses this way…

Yes but if you have some sawdust or wood chips that you want to break down into good soil, the Hi-Pee horse poo is the way to go

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

“… … … “
Just because I copied off the internet, it doesn’t mean I believe it is a proven fact.

I’d prefer to recommend soaking in a dilute solution of seaweed extract or weak tea colour liquid manure. I’ve found both of these actually work. I’ll get back to you when I test the honey one.

Long may you contribute to this Forum, RoughBarked!!

Well urban myths usually have people who test them. There’s a zillion youtubes about how to do it with honey but I haven’t got enough years left in my life to start looking through youtube on my dialup for the proof which isn’t there.

Honey has many great properties and normally I’d believe much of the magic of honey but it does have weak points that the bees do a lot of work to keep out.. the big one is water and bacteria.

Anyone who gas signed up to be a member of Dave’s Garden can see the answers but I’m not signing up just to earn Dave money. http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/496199/

Anyway, if anyone would have tested it it would be the closet growers of cuttings. ie; http://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/211850-honey-rooting-hormone-cuttings.html