I want to put an old workstation out on my patio to be my “music player”. Because it has to put up with dust, moisture, wind, etc, what is the best way to proect it? Clear plastic wrap (loose – heat build up)?

Obviousman said:

I want to put an old workstation out on my patio to be my “music player”. Because it has to put up with dust, moisture, wind, etc, what is the best way to proect it? Clear plastic wrap (loose – heat build up)?

Buy a Raspberry Pi or Beaglebone, instead. Just not worth the hassle of 240v in the elements.

Carmen_Sandiego said:

Obviousman said:

I want to put an old workstation out on my patio to be my “music player”. Because it has to put up with dust, moisture, wind, etc, what is the best way to proect it? Clear plastic wrap (loose – heat build up)?

Buy a Raspberry Pi or Beaglebone, instead. Just not worth the hassle of 240v in the elements.

I agree

if you are determined to use the old computer you’d be best off having a fan/s with the air being drawn through a filter. you could have one fan drawing in and the other pushing out.

you should think how the air will enter and leave the case

ideally the hot air should leave at the top

don’t have it in the sun

the filter should stop animals getting into the case if you do it right

most problems I’ve seen with computers is dust and heat affecting the board in office situations. outside locations have the added problem of geckos and insects getting in. ants for one are good at finding these kinds of places to nest in. you need a sealed box and a filter that will be sealed around the edge with perhaps silastic to stop ants getting in.

think carefully of radiative heat from metal roofs, I’ve been in some locations where radiative heat is vaguely noticeable to the human body but as soon you put your hand on a component exposed to a metal roof some 10m away it is burning hot

What is the best way to run a raspberry pi off batteries?

Ive looked at three options

ONE

http://www.raspberrypi.org/faqs

Can I run power Raspberry Pi from batteries as well as from a wall socket?

Yes. The device should run off 4 x AA rechargeable cells, but there may be stability issues as the batteries lose their charge. Using 4 x AA Alkaline cells will result in 6v and it is therefore recommended to use a voltage regulator.

TWO

but this method voids a new warranty

http://www.daveakerman.com/?page_id=1294

So I Can Supply The Pi From 3.3V Only?

Correct. It’s entirely possible to ditch the 5V supply and run the Pi from 3.3V only, using a single regulator between the batteries and the 3.3V line. You still need some voltage on the 5V line, to keep the BCM2835 happy via its VSense line, but 3.3V is plenty for that.

OK, How?

Using an separate voltage regulator, bypassing the Pi’s own 3.3V regulator. There are two options – a linear regulator (as on the Pi, but better) or a switching regulator.

more….

THREE

http://minipute.com/2013/07/08/qa-can-you-run-raspberry-pi-outdoor-continuously-on-battery-power/2049

are there better options?

has anyone run a pi from a car battery?
could you use a simple 12 v to 3 v usb cigarette charger?

CrazyNeutrino said:

has anyone run a pi from a car battery?
could you use a simple 12 v to 3 v usb cigarette charger?

Probably.
Yes.

:)

I use a 5VDC 1A supply for my RPi

theres no noticeable heat from it in operation

from what I have read there are issues if you use a lower voltage. the 1A supply is recommended too.

So, gladwrap is good (but don’t close off the air-movement ports)?

Carmen_Sandiego said:

CrazyNeutrino said:

has anyone run a pi from a car battery?
could you use a simple 12 v to 3 v usb cigarette charger?

Probably.
Yes.

:)

Any reason to run it from a 3v charger? You can buy DC-DC voltage regulators with variable output voltage. I used to run my laptop on one years ago from a car battery sitting under the desk.

Isn’t a Raspberry Pi powered via USB?

Michael V said:

So, gladwrap is good (but don’t close off the air-movement ports)?

I wouldn’t use glad wrap

you’ll find that raspberry Pis are normally in cases

glad wrap can tear easily which means then the elements get in

Carmen_Sandiego said:

Isn’t a Raspberry Pi powered via USB?

yes it can be

I use a plug pack though

Carmen_Sandiego said:

Isn’t a Raspberry Pi powered via USB?

yes it can be

I use a plug pack though

Hey ERB if you end up getting a Raspberry Pi, I can make a case for it on my 3D printer for you.

Heaps to be found here –
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=raspberry+pi+case&sa=Submit

As for the OP – I used to live at the beach, and a computer would last 2 years before failing to turn on. While they were powered up and running, they were pretty much OK, but turn them off for a few days and they just wouldn’t wake up again. Post-mortems would invariably show the fine build-up of fluff on the circuitry near the processor would trap salt from the air that absorbed water and corroded everything once the airflow and warmth stopped.

I managed to increase MTBF considerably by spraying every PCB in the PC (except the PSU) with an shielding wax (after masking all connections and potentially hot bits)

The PSU still is vulnerable, of course.

I’m not spending any money on this, and the computer will be in the open where it can be stolen. That’s why I only have cheap stuff out there.

I’m thinking a plastic bag will do the trick; just remove it when I use the ‘puter.

Here is an alternative: I can have the tower / monitor / keyboard inside my garage, and run the audio output to the stereo outside. That means running about a 6-7 metre standard dual wire cable to an RCA L / R splitter.

Is that do-able? Is that too great a length?

why not have the entire set-up in the garage and turn it up to 11?

Boris said:

why not have the entire set-up in the garage and turn it up to 11?

That’s what I do when I sit outside. Has the disadvantage you cant hear the phone though.

Nah – the stereo, the TV, the speakers, are all outside. Bringing the stereo inside the garage means compromising the space available… which is tight.

i only have a mobile these days. landline was a waste of money.

i’m outta ideas then.

Boris said:

i’m outta ideas then.

That’s obvious man.

you looking for trouble sunshine?

whahhh?

Is the length of cable too long for audio…. THAT is the question.

8-)

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061220173505AA7OXkI

might help. reliability….well….

https://www.google.com.au/search?num=40&lr=&newwindow=1&as_qdr=all&q=maximum+length+rca+audio+connects&oq=maximum+length+rca+audio+connects&gs_l=serp.3…183566.184667.0.186396.4.4.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0….0…1c.1.27.serp..4.0.0.RjEUdgfHu50

or have a look through this lot for rca audio connect lengths.

the first link seems to have some good advice.

Hmm – I’m using standard twin cable, not RCA. Guess the best option is to try it and see.

radio corporation of america

Hmm – I’m using standard twin cable,

twin flex speaker type cable? i have about 7m to my speakers and they work fine.

Boris said:

Hmm – I’m using standard twin cable,

twin flex speaker type cable? i have about 7m to my speakers and they work fine.

I figure that will do me. As I said, I’ll try and see. I have some spare cable… if it works I’ll invest in some better grade cable.

if it works I’ll invest in some better grade cable.

just get thicker twin flex. there is a lot of crap written about speaker cables.

http://sound.westhost.com/cables.htm

http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm

this guy knows his stuff.

I have one of those in-car radio transmitter thingos that transmits about 8 m through walls to the stereo from the computer that’s in another room.

Obviousman said:

whahhh?

Is the length of cable too long for audio…. THAT is the question.

8-)

No.

Obviousman said:

Boris said:

Hmm – I’m using standard twin cable,

twin flex speaker type cable? i have about 7m to my speakers and they work fine.

I figure that will do me. As I said, I’ll try and see. I have some spare cable… if it works I’ll invest in some better grade cable.

Egad…no. You can basically use bailing wire and get a decent signal over a decent length. Just grab some stranded 2.5 mm TPS (general sparky cable that they run for general outlets) that will be plenty good enough.

sibeen said:

Obviousman said:

Boris said:

Hmm – I’m using standard twin cable,

twin flex speaker type cable? i have about 7m to my speakers and they work fine.

I figure that will do me. As I said, I’ll try and see. I have some spare cable… if it works I’ll invest in some better grade cable.

Egad…no. You can basically use bailing wire and get a decent signal over a decent length. Just grab some stranded 2.5 mm TPS (general sparky cable that they run for general outlets) that will be plenty good enough.

“twin” 2.5

You mean it doesn’t have to be 12mm 500-strand, gold coated low oxygen copper? Now you tell me!

You mean it doesn’t have to be 12mm 500-strand, gold coated low oxygen copper?

what kind of ears do you have?

Michael V said:

You mean it doesn’t have to be 12mm 500-strand, gold coated low oxygen copper? Now you tell me!

Well it does if you want the best quality sound. Obviously you don’t mind abusing your ears. he sniffed haughtily

:)

of course if you’re running stuff from these guys you may want to have fairly decent cabling…

lenard audio

Skunkworks said:

Michael V said:

You mean it doesn’t have to be 12mm 500-strand, gold coated low oxygen copper? Now you tell me!

Well it does if you want the best quality sound. Obviously you don’t mind abusing your ears. he sniffed haughtily

There’s not many times I agree with Curve, but an occasion has just arise.

Look, you may not be able to tel the difference on any bit of test equipment ever devised, but that is such an objective test that I do cringe and shudder.

True value can only be gained by a scientific appraisal using subjective testing by those sell, manufacture and purchase gifted enough to discern the subtle differences that even the most expensive test equipment fails to pick up.

sibeen said:

Skunkworks said:

Michael V said:

You mean it doesn’t have to be 12mm 500-strand, gold coated low oxygen copper? Now you tell me!

Well it does if you want the best quality sound. Obviously you don’t mind abusing your ears. he sniffed haughtily

There’s not many times I agree with Curve, but an occasion has just arise.

Look, you may not be able to tel the difference on any bit of test equipment ever devised, but that is such an objective test that I do cringe and shudder.

True value can only be gained by a scientific appraisal using subjective testing by those sell, manufacture and purchase gifted enough to discern the subtle differences that even the most expensive test equipment fails to pick up.

:)

Opal

$50 000

Opals are fully 4-way active integrated monitor systems that can be applied to a range of applications including domestic, studio monitoring, commercial and PA. Designed to give the highest fidelity performance technically achievable, the Opal systems are also crafted to suite most environments. Custom Opal systems can be consigned for more specific applications and environments.

All Opal systems are supplied with in-built solid-state amplification and internal 4-way active crossovers. For those wanting a sweeter, warmer experience, fully 4-way active valve towers can be added.

The Opal system structure is based on a 3-way center speaker system consisting of a 2in compression driver for upper voice, ribbon or compression tweeters for harmonics and 12in flared cabinet or front loaded 15in for lower voice. Completed as a 4-way with 2 × 15in, 18in or 21in bass speakers.

Lenard 4-way active integrated sound systems create a 3D, virtual reality, fully dynamic experience. The effect is breathtaking. Hearing complete clarity and detailed separation, as though the musicians are actually present.

The Classic Black Opal system cabinets are crafted from the finest Australian hardwoods. The exponential horns are CNC machined from solid 100 year old redgum. This system is equipped with two valve amplifier towers.

The Classic Black Opal system can be replicated as a Custom Opal system.

The way we hear the natural world

4-way active is the application of dividing the music spectrum into 4 registers: bass; lower voice; upper voice and harmonics. Fully 4-way active is when the music signal is divided by an electronic cross-over prior to it being sent to the dedicated amplifiers and speakers. This allows for an experience as we hear sound in the natural world.

4-way active achieves every criteria without compromise.

————————

i may be a while…

>The exponential horns are CNC machined from solid 100 year old redgum

That sounds like something I could get into. Only from 300 year old Jarrah, just to go one better.

JudgeMental said:

The way we hear the natural world

4-way active is the application of dividing the music spectrum into 4 registers: bass; lower voice; upper voice and harmonics.

Harmonics, eh. Well, I never.

I’d just be a tad interested how they divide the 50 Hz harmonics and the 10 kHz harmonics into the same active path.

confused from Essendon

sibeen said:

JudgeMental said:

The way we hear the natural world

4-way active is the application of dividing the music spectrum into 4 registers: bass; lower voice; upper voice and harmonics.

Harmonics, eh. Well, I never.

I’d just be a tad interested how they divide the 50 Hz harmonics and the 10 kHz harmonics into the same active path.

confused from Essendon

That’s your problem. Damaged ears. Live too close to that noisy old airport.

linkwitz riley crossovers of course.

Realistically, someone could blast my house with enough sound wave pressure to make the walls collapse, and if the frequency was above about 10 kHz or so, I wouldn’t hear a thing.

It may annoy the dog at the time.

JudgeMental said:

Opal

$50 000

Opals are fully 4-way active integrated monitor systems that can be applied to a range of applications including domestic, studio monitoring, commercial and PA. Designed to give the highest fidelity performance technically achievable, the Opal systems are also crafted to suite most environments. Custom Opal systems can be consigned for more specific applications and environments.

All Opal systems are supplied with in-built solid-state amplification and internal 4-way active crossovers. For those wanting a sweeter, warmer experience, fully 4-way active valve towers can be added.

The Opal system structure is based on a 3-way center speaker system consisting of a 2in compression driver for upper voice, ribbon or compression tweeters for harmonics and 12in flared cabinet or front loaded 15in for lower voice. Completed as a 4-way with 2 × 15in, 18in or 21in bass speakers.

Lenard 4-way active integrated sound systems create a 3D, virtual reality, fully dynamic experience. The effect is breathtaking. Hearing complete clarity and detailed separation, as though the musicians are actually present.

The Classic Black Opal system cabinets are crafted from the finest Australian hardwoods. The exponential horns are CNC machined from solid 100 year old redgum. This system is equipped with two valve amplifier towers.

The Classic Black Opal system can be replicated as a Custom Opal system.

The way we hear the natural world

4-way active is the application of dividing the music spectrum into 4 registers: bass; lower voice; upper voice and harmonics. Fully 4-way active is when the music signal is divided by an electronic cross-over prior to it being sent to the dedicated amplifiers and speakers. This allows for an experience as we hear sound in the natural world.

4-way active achieves every criteria without compromise.

————————

i may be a while…

What a load of crap…

just saying, that’s all.

What a load of crap…

pfffft as if you’d pass up a set.