Have any unusual glue recipes? eg. could you make glue from rice-flour and alcohol? What about flour and oil?

Ideas that have come to me include using the following as glues:
paraffin
chewing gum
sticky notes
gelatine (with alcohol or oil?)
plastic bags (or other plastic?)
clay
egg white
milk+vinegar+baking soda
paint (of all types)
wattle gum
floor polish
liquid paper
blu-tak

Any other suggestions?

I want to try them all out for strength etc.

I’m specifically looking for maximum flammability, and for fastest loss of strength at high temperatures. I could mix a little gunpowder with the glue, but that would be cheating.

tricky one

mollwollfumble said:

Have any unusual glue recipes? eg. could you make glue from rice-flour and alcohol? What about flour and oil?

Ideas that have come to me include using the following as glues:
paraffin
chewing gum
sticky notes
gelatine (with alcohol or oil?)
plastic bags (or other plastic?)
clay
egg white
milk+vinegar+baking soda
paint (of all types)
wattle gum
floor polish
liquid paper
blu-tak

Any other suggestions?

I want to try them all out for strength etc.

I’m specifically looking for maximum flammability, and for fastest loss of strength at high temperatures. I could mix a little gunpowder with the glue, but that would be cheating.

—-

Waxes have many forms…

another way you could go is not using glue but something like a pin that holds something in until its heated

fuse wire will disintegrate when the wrong current flows down it or it gets hot

mollwollfumble said:

I’m specifically looking for maximum flammability, and for fastest loss of strength at high temperatures. I could mix a little gunpowder with the glue, but that would be cheating.

Hide glue?

Don’t know about the flammability, but it loses adherence pretty quickly under heat.

wheetbix and milk…

Better use for it than eating IMO.

theres something they sell at jaycar

its a plastic that will become soft when heated with hot air but hardens when cooled to room temperature

you could see if this could do what you need to do with it

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NP4260

whatever you are using it for I would recommend using the plastic sparingly so that it all softens at once , assuming you want it to soften all at once – quickly

wookiemeister said:

theres something they sell at jaycar

its a plastic that will become soft when heated with hot air but hardens when cooled to room temperature

you could see if this could do what you need to do with it

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NP4260

Polymorph will change the way you make parts. It’s a commercial grade thermoplastic that softens enough to be formed into any shape at around 62 – 65° C. You simply heat the pellets in hot water or with a hair dryer. It hardens at room temperature to form a tough plastic material similar in consistency and colour to Nylon. It can be drilled, sanded, ground, machined or heated and reformed again and again. Endless uses in model making, craft, single part manufacture, prototyping, engineering, science, lab, clinical applications and more.

Moll, it may help to know what substances need to be glued.

Not all glues adhere to all substances.

I never thought I’d say this:

I just learned something from Wookie.

There is a product with a very deceptive title of “hot melt glue” that tends to melt at high temps and stick as it cools. I am not sure if it flamable, but it is capable of creating very loud explitives when it drips onto the skin of the user…

Mrs T suggests cornflour and glucose syrup.

Teleost said:

Mrs T suggests cornflour and glucose syrup.

How about fish glue?

A 50:50 (by volume) mix of Gelatine and milk makes a really good ‘hot’ glue – Hardens quickly as it cools to a flexible solid.

Dunno whether it would be flammable or not, but you can certainly combine Ethanol and gelatine to form a highly flammable gel.

Still dunno what you are intending to stick to what, but back in the 60’s we used paste made from flour and water for children’s artwork stuff. Goes mouldy if you keep the artwork too long. Should be flammable.

“Fuse wire” – a good alternative.

> Moll, it may help to know what substances need to be glued. Not all glues adhere to all substances.

I’ll try it out with paper or cardboard for starters.

Table tennis balls, guitar picks and nail polish (as well as the veneer of playing cards and the material sticking staples together) are all mostly made from nitrocellulose, a well-known explosive. It even burns in a vacuum.

It could be dissolved in acetone or reacted with alcohol or camphor. Even without the alcohol or camphor, dissolving a table tennis ball and letting the solvent evaporate could make an interesting glue.

Polystyrene foam and Petrol makes a gel that burns like dry buggery. Dunno whether it would be a good glue or not.

> there’s something they sell at jaycar – polymer.

Ta for the link. Saw it on ewe-tube, but didn’t think about it as didn’t know it was available nearby, or if it was sticky. Very much worth trying. It may be Polycaprolactone

>Gelatine & milk, ethanol

Thanks for the hint.

> Goes mouldy

Web suggests fixing that by adding a lot of salt.

> Hide glue? Don’t know about the flammability, but it loses adherence pretty quickly under heat.

Good idea. I’m actually looking for three glues:
1) Strong and fireproof – that’s the easiest to get
2) Intermediate strength and highly flammable
3) Intermediate to weak and loses grip within 1.6 seconds when heated.

I’m sure this thread has now been bookmarked by numerous “security agencies”.

Awaits the arrival of the Black Marias

Teleost said:

I’m sure this thread has now been bookmarked by numerous “security agencies”. Awaits the arrival of the Black Marias

Some of these, including the milk and the table tennis ball ones have appeared on a British TV program on SBS. Wish I could remember the name of it, first episode included a canon that produced vortex rings so powerful that they knocked over a simulated building. One episode made a fire tornado in the lab. A later episode made a home-made nitrogen ultraviolet laser.

Have you thought of using fumes?

roughbarked said:

Have you thought of using fumes?

No. What do you have in mind?

I’m thinking Roughie’s postulating things like heated superglue to form a very thin layer.

</guess>

Teleost said:

I’m thinking Roughie’s postulating things like heated superglue to form a very thin layer.

</guess>

Heating various glues and waxes may be very useful though I was actually recalling to memory when I was doing leadlighting, my daughter brought in a plastic car which had been broken and asked if I could fix it, Knowing that various glues don’t work on plastic I sort of sat it down on the bench to think about in the morning. Where I sat it happened to be upon a shallow dish with mineral turps in it. The next morning the plastic was glued solid but if I hadn’t checked it the melting could possibly have deformed the whole car body. The fumes evaporating from the dish had interacted with the plastic and fused it together.

That makes a lot of sense.

I recall a mate of mine a few years ago telling me his first child was on the way and asking for any advice for the brand new parent.

My advice was to buy shares in Selleys as superglue would soon become the most important substance in his life. :)

roughbarked said:

Teleost said:

I’m thinking Roughie’s postulating things like heated superglue to form a very thin layer.

</guess>

Heating various glues and waxes may be very useful though I was actually recalling to memory when I was doing leadlighting, my daughter brought in a plastic car which had been broken and asked if I could fix it, Knowing that various glues don’t work on plastic I sort of sat it down on the bench to think about in the morning. Where I sat it happened to be upon a shallow dish with mineral turps in it. The next morning the plastic was glued solid but if I hadn’t checked it the melting could possibly have deformed the whole car body. The fumes evaporating from the dish had interacted with the plastic and fused it together.

This is used as a method of polishing plastic components too. In particular, those made by 3D printing.

I take it that nano thermite is out?

:)

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

Have you thought of using fumes?

No. What do you have in mind?

ie: turps fumes and various plastics. Therefore this may have ramifications for further experimentation.

Epoxy resin may come unstuck if heated. It is how a jeweller removes the pearl from your pearl ring before repairing the metal. A match will provide enough heat for this without damaging the pearl. I also apply the same level of heat to push the bubbles out of the epoxy resin before gluing opals together. The adhesive strength of epoxy is very high though the same can be peeled off a flat surface with a razor blade or scalpel.

sibeen said:

I take it that nano thermite is out?

:)

Explosives of any kind can be quite dangerous.

roughbarked said:

mollwollfumble said:

roughbarked said:

Have you thought of using fumes?

No. What do you have in mind?

ie: turps fumes and various plastics. Therefore this may have ramifications for further experimentation.

Epoxy resin may come unstuck if heated. It is how a jeweller removes the pearl from your pearl ring before repairing the metal. A match will provide enough heat for this without damaging the pearl. I also apply the same level of heat to push the bubbles out of the epoxy resin before gluing opals together. The adhesive strength of epoxy is very high though the same can be peeled off a flat surface with a razor blade or scalpel.

That’s how you remove ceramic tiles from metal surfaces in mining gear too.

>>Where I sat it happened to be upon a shallow dish with mineral turps in it. <<

Do you mean you sat the toy in mineral turps? Why not on the bench? Why would you put it in the turps?

I am old enough to have done “shell repairs” on plastic spectacle frames. For plastic (acetate) frames that broke across the bridge, you sit patiently dipping the two broken ends into acetone until they soften, then you apply more patience while you hold the melted bits together until they hold without splitting, then you arrange the whole thing carefully on some prepared plasticine to hold it in place for at least 12 hours to set again. Maybe you could get some liquidified acetate to use as a glue.

As an aside, remember Le Specs? Learnt very early on not to clean the lenses with acetone….melty melty! (I never sold them, but we did have people wanting them cleaned and adjusted. Can’t do)

Tar?

buffy said:

>>Where I sat it happened to be upon a shallow dish with mineral turps in it. <<

Do you mean you sat the toy in mineral turps? Why not on the bench? Why would you put it in the turps?

I am old enough to have done “shell repairs” on plastic spectacle frames. For plastic (acetate) frames that broke across the bridge, you sit patiently dipping the two broken ends into acetone until they soften, then you apply more patience while you hold the melted bits together until they hold without splitting, then you arrange the whole thing carefully on some prepared plasticine to hold it in place for at least 12 hours to set again. Maybe you could get some liquidified acetate to use as a glue.

As an aside, remember Le Specs? Learnt very early on not to clean the lenses with acetone….melty melty! (I never sold them, but we did have people wanting them cleaned and adjusted. Can’t do)

I sat on top of an open tin with turps in it. I couldn’t sit it on the bench because it was covered with a large leadlight window I was making. The tin was the only free place.

Acetone can clean price tags off glass but not off plastic.

Ah well, you said upon a shallow dish. A tin of turps ain’t now shallow dish. You see the confusion.

buffy said:

Ah well, you said upon a shallow dish. A tin of turps ain’t now shallow dish. You see the confusion.

read.. tobacco tin with turps in it. ;)

Anywho said:

Tar?

Yes. Great idea, will test.

Rule 303 said:

A 50:50 (by volume) mix of Gelatine and milk makes a really good ‘hot’ glue – Hardens quickly as it cools to a flexible solid.
Dunno whether it would be flammable or not, but you can certainly combine Ethanol and gelatine to form a highly flammable gel.

Didn’t know what you were suggesting until I checked youtube. Great idea. 10 seconds on microwave. Will try.

Possibly already mentioned. However resin from grasstrees and spinifex grass were used by aborigines to cement stone tools to wooden handles, etc. The former is easily collected around the base of the grasstree (Xanthorrhoea sp.).

Cum crumbs and curly hairs?

Am starting testing glues (and some types of sticky tape) on paper-paper and cardboard-cardboard lap joints.

Am recording strength, flammability and glue/tape thickness.

mollwollfumble said:

Am starting testing glues (and some types of sticky tape) on paper-paper and cardboard-cardboard lap joints.

Am recording strength, flammability and glue/tape thickness.

Flammability warnings.

Gaffer tape is extremely flammable, is very easily ignited and burns hot enough to start a bushfire. If you value your house, don’t let gaffer tape anywhere near an open flame.

Superglue is very flammable, took more than 10 seconds of flame to ignite (before 10 seconds it just boiled) but once it started burning the flame was strong enough and lasted long enough to cook over.

Flammable but self-extinguishing: sticky tape, packing tape, magic tape.

Chars easily: paper, thin double-sided tape, Clag paste, nail polish

Boils easily: superglue, Cabot’s Crystal Clear varnish, polystyrene cement, PVA

Melts easily: paraffin, sticky tape, packing tape, magic tape

Chars a little in direct flame: Blu-Tak, PVA, water putty, Cabot’s Crystal Clear varnish

Relatively flameproof: liquid paper, “puzzle fixative”, spray enamel paint

Uncertain: bitumen – something happened when exposed to direct flame but I couldn’t tell if it was melting, boiling or charring. Whatever it was stopped as soon as the flame was removed.

Loads carried in kg by a lap joint with a 2 cm^2 contact area on paper-paper or cardboard-cardboard.
0 kg – floor polish
< .035 kg – spray enamel paint
0.26 kg – sticky note
0.64 kg – double-sided tape
0.91 kg – bitumen
1.15 kg – paraffin
1.28 kg – magic tape
2.2 kg – Blu-Tak
>2.5 kg – the others

I can understand the others but am puzzled by paraffin.

> I’m actually looking for three glues:
> 1) Strong and fireproof – that’s the easiest to get Not sure yet, but should be plenty available
> 2) Intermediate strength and highly flammable Superglue – high strength and highly flammable
> 3) Intermediate to weak and loses grip within 1.6 seconds when heated. Sticky tape – loses grip practically immediately

I don’t really need to go further than that.
For wookie, a wire made from sticky tape rather than fuse wire would be the best non-electrical way to release unwanted cluster rockets before they fully burn out, needed in order to avoid lopsided forces.

Have completed testing. Originally wanted to test twice as many including acrylic, liquid nails, silicone, gelatine, casein, melted LDPE.

As image:

Materials tested for flammability & strength

Floor polish
Spray enamel paint
Sticky note
Thin double-sided tape
Bitumen
Paraffin
Magic/invisible tape
Blu-Tak
Gaffer tape
Sticky tape/Sellotape
Water putty
Packing tape
Liquid paper
Nail polish
Crystal Clear varnish
Clag paste
Polystyrene cement
Puzzle fixative
PVA
Superglue

I was really surprised at how strong all of these are. I would never have picked Liquid Paper as a strong glue, for instance, “polystyrene cement” was only intended for gluing polystyrene components, etc. “Puzzle fixative” is a clear low-viscosity glue intended for gluing jigsaw puzzles.