found some wormer in the Shed that says June 1993 or 2003 not sure which one would i be save to use.

veg gardener said:

found some wormer in the Shed that says June 1993 or 2003 not sure which one would i be save to use.

Me myself I’d not use it…… either it’ll be too week or its brewed too strong.

I vote no

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

found some wormer in the Shed that says June 1993 or 2003 not sure which one would i be save to use.

Me myself I’d not use it…… either it’ll be too week or its brewed too strong.

I vote no

ok, so if i give it to them Would it kill them.

veg gardener said:

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

found some wormer in the Shed that says June 1993 or 2003 not sure which one would i be save to use.

Me myself I’d not use it…… either it’ll be too week or its brewed too strong.

I vote no

ok, so if i give it to them Would it kill them.

I don’t know VG….. the way I see it…. for less than $20.00 to buy new in dated worming solution….. is it worth risking and perhaps loosing some or all your chooks???

It would cost so much more to replace them at $16 per hen at point of lay.

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

found some wormer in the Shed that says June 1993 or 2003 not sure which one would i be save to use.

Me myself I’d not use it…… either it’ll be too week or its brewed too strong.

I vote no

ok, so if i give it to them Would it kill them.

I don’t know VG….. the way I see it…. for less than $20.00 to buy new in dated worming solution….. is it worth risking and perhaps loosing some or all your chooks???

It would cost so much more to replace them at $16 per hen at point of lay.

yeah. i may be setting the Incubator with more eggs if i am aloud. trying to find if you can buy smaller bottles of it.

yeah. i may be setting the Incubator with more eggs if i am aloud. trying to find if you can buy smaller bottles of it.
—————————————————-
Don’t use eggs from the time your treating the chooks for worm in your incubator.

Yes you can buy it in 2 sizes.

Here ya go found this on their website

*Inca – Piperazine
Piperazine Solution is an effective control of Roundworm in poultry, pigeons, cage birds and pigs. It is also an effective Nodule Wormer in pigs. It is easy to administer and if used as directed, will prove to be an economical wormer which can be administered with minimum fuss. Simply combine the required amount with water.
Can also be administered to pigs in wet mash or by individual drenching. concerned.
Contains – Piperazine Citrate 450g/L
Product No. Description
75853 Inca – Piperazine – 125ml
75854 Inca – Piperazine – 250ml
75855 Inca – Piperazine – 500ml*

Last one on the page…scroll down… this is what I use

http://www.ag-line.com/site/index.php?sort=brand&find=inca

Lucky1 said:

yeah. i may be setting the Incubator with more eggs if i am aloud. trying to find if you can buy smaller bottles of it.
—————————————————-
Don’t use eggs from the time your treating the chooks for worm in your incubator.

Yes you can buy it in 2 sizes.

Here ya go found this on their website

*Inca – Piperazine
Piperazine Solution is an effective control of Roundworm in poultry, pigeons, cage birds and pigs. It is also an effective Nodule Wormer in pigs. It is easy to administer and if used as directed, will prove to be an economical wormer which can be administered with minimum fuss. Simply combine the required amount with water.
Can also be administered to pigs in wet mash or by individual drenching. concerned.
Contains – Piperazine Citrate 450g/L
Product No. Description
75853 Inca – Piperazine – 125ml
75854 Inca – Piperazine – 250ml
75855 Inca – Piperazine – 500ml*

Last one on the page…scroll down… this is what I use

http://www.ag-line.com/site/index.php?sort=brand&find=inca

Lucky already collected the eggs i want to sit got 14 of them.

what about eating the eggs after they have been wormed?

veg gardener said:

what about eating the eggs after they have been wormed?

I don’t..

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

what about eating the eggs after they have been wormed?

I don’t..

so you eat the eggs after you have wormed them?

veg gardener said:

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

what about eating the eggs after they have been wormed?

I don’t..

so you eat the eggs after you have wormed them?

Yeah I leave it a couple of day and start collecting them again.

Don’t feed the eggs to worm farms either…..cook them and add to a compost bin or feed then raw to a dog.

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

Lucky1 said:

veg gardener said:

what about eating the eggs after they have been wormed?

I don’t..

so you eat the eggs after you have wormed them?

Yeah I leave it a couple of day and start collecting them again.

Don’t feed the eggs to worm farms either…..cook them and add to a compost bin or feed then raw to a dog.

thinking our dog sandy would like them or i could just cook them and put them into the compost bin.

what about using the old garlic. it’s effective as a wormer and safe to eat the eggs etc.
when i used to have tropical fish and they got worms, the only thing i found effective was levamisole in tank water, which is a sheep wormer. fish won’t/can’t eat garlic. garlic also has other health benefits, for both human and fowl, which a purified worming tablet does not.
i have to put garlic in the chickens’ drinking water, as they won’t eat it directly….whilst my ducks relish eating garlic. which reminds me i should give them some garlic soon, in this july/coldest month. a dose once a month or two should provide adequate protection against worms and some other parasites. worming tablets/solutions become more attractive/convenient as the flock grows.

ok then.

VG here’s the deal with use by date (for at least some things). Some chemicals don’t react together immediately, and then they don’t react all at once. If you put two chemicals together, Say A and B (‘cause I can’t think chemistry in too much depth before breakfast), they might 4 days for half the chemical to react (so you have 25%A, 25%B and 50%AB). It then takes another four days for half of what’s left to react (so you end up with 12.5%A, 12.5%B, and the rest is AB); and another four for half of what is then left to react (6.25%A, 6.25%B, 87.5%AB).

Depending on what “AB” turns out to be that reaction could cause the chemicals to lose their effectiveness or it could cause them to become dangerous to your chooks. In one instance, you’re not doing any good at all giving the stuff to your chooks; and in the other you’re causing harm.

In things where the chemical reaction decreases the effectiveness of the product usually its a “best before” date (eg cake mixes have a raising agent that makes them fluffy; it’s usually affected by moisture). In products where the chemical reaction can cause harm its usually a “use by” date.

Eye drops (for example) have a “use by” date. Sometimes the very chemicals that sooth your eyes can turn acidic and burn you. So, after that use by date tip them down the sewerage folks. (The Man never took any notice me telling him not to use 2 year old eye drops until I took chemistry, so it’s one that springs to mind.)

Also with garlic it needs to be added to the water on the evening of a full moon.

So I read.

Good reporting and info there Sue too:D

great explanation SueBk :)

aquarium said:

what about using the old garlic. it’s effective as a wormer and safe to eat the eggs etc.
when i used to have tropical fish and they got worms, the only thing i found effective was levamisole in tank water, which is a sheep wormer. fish won’t/can’t eat garlic. garlic also has other health benefits, for both human and fowl, which a purified worming tablet does not.
i have to put garlic in the chickens’ drinking water, as they won’t eat it directly….whilst my ducks relish eating garlic. which reminds me i should give them some garlic soon, in this july/coldest month. a dose once a month or two should provide adequate protection against worms and some other parasites. worming tablets/solutions become more attractive/convenient as the flock grows.

my chooks don’t suffer from worms and are usually – er – robust.
the kitchen scraps have plenty of cooked garlic in leftover stews, soups and other dishes. the chooks definitely eat all the leftovers.
i’m just wondering why others feel the need to use other than garlic.
i admit i’m a mug chook farmer but i can’t comprehend why wormers are necessary.

pepe said:

i’m just wondering why others feel the need to use other than garlic.
i admit i’m a mug chook farmer but i can’t comprehend why wormers are necessary.

I don’t use medicated treatments as a matter of course, but if a chook was showing symptoms of worms like VG’s chook is – eating lots but still too thin, then I would medicate them. I am considering doing something with mine for scaley leg mite. they used to be unaffected but some chooks I brought in brought it with them and now all my chooks are affected. Because I work I cannot spend a lot of time handling them all putting vaseline or such on them, so I am thinking a medicated treatment to clean up the lot and then I won’t have to worry about it again.

bluegreen said:

pepe said:

i’m just wondering why others feel the need to use other than garlic.
i admit i’m a mug chook farmer but i can’t comprehend why wormers are necessary.

I don’t use medicated treatments as a matter of course, but if a chook was showing symptoms of worms like VG’s chook is – eating lots but still too thin, then I would medicate them. I am considering doing something with mine for scaley leg mite. they used to be unaffected but some chooks I brought in brought it with them and now all my chooks are affected. Because I work I cannot spend a lot of time handling them all putting vaseline or such on them, so I am thinking a medicated treatment to clean up the lot and then I won’t have to worry about it again.

yeah i’ve got scaly leg mite despite the vaseline. i need to do it more.
your reasoning is sound as always. i guess if i had a worm problem i might act more drastically and then return to normal.

pepe said:

bluegreen said:

pepe said:

i’m just wondering why others feel the need to use other than garlic.
i admit i’m a mug chook farmer but i can’t comprehend why wormers are necessary.

I don’t use medicated treatments as a matter of course, but if a chook was showing symptoms of worms like VG’s chook is – eating lots but still too thin, then I would medicate them. I am considering doing something with mine for scaley leg mite. they used to be unaffected but some chooks I brought in brought it with them and now all my chooks are affected. Because I work I cannot spend a lot of time handling them all putting vaseline or such on them, so I am thinking a medicated treatment to clean up the lot and then I won’t have to worry about it again.

yeah i’ve got scaly leg mite despite the vaseline. i need to do it more.
your reasoning is sound as always. i guess if i had a worm problem i might act more drastically and then return to normal.

what does scaly leg mite look like?

veg gardener said:

what does scaly leg mite look like?

you can’t see the mites themselves, but if the legs of your chooks get thick lumps or a chunky scaley look to them then they probably have the mites. Older chooks legs will look more scaley than a young chook though.