Unbelievable Snowflake Photographs Captured With Cheap DIY Camera
found this at beautiful decay
this technique might be useful for closeups of insects, spiders and beetles etc
CrazyNeutrino said:
Unbelievable Snowflake Photographs Captured With Cheap DIY Camerafound this at beautiful decay
this technique might be useful for closeups of insects, spiders and beetles etc
I used an ordinary SLR camera mounted on a microscope using a Cafe Bar cup holder. It took beautiful images of asbestos.
Lubly structures.
Wow. I always thought there were no straight lines in nature.
Speedy said:
Wow. I always thought there were no straight lines in nature.
Well there are, but they’re not very long.
Speedy said:
Wow. I always thought there were no straight lines in nature.
One of the s’ess in principles of camouflage, avoid straight lines.
excellent design-Disappearing car door!
Riff-in-Thyme said:
excellent design-Disappearing car door!
All good until you park on that bumpy road.
Speedy said:
Riff-in-Thyme said:
excellent design-Disappearing car door!
All good until you park on that bumpy road.
only for the initial release. subsequent releases will not effect road clearance
CrazyNeutrino said:
Thanks.
Unbelievable Snowflake Photographs Captured With Cheap DIY Camerafound this at beautiful decay
this technique might be useful for closeups of insects, spiders and beetles etc
:)
Great images. It was interesting to read Alexey Kljatov’s blog about his techniques.
http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/my-technique-for-snowflakes-shooting.html (including design detail)
http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/about-averaging-identical-shots.html (software techniques)
I can see some time wasting with my old 35 mm SLR film camera lenses. It always seemed such a waste to put them permanently to one side. Maybe reuse is still possible.
:) :)
Michael V said:
CrazyNeutrino said:Thanks.
Unbelievable Snowflake Photographs Captured With Cheap DIY Camerafound this at beautiful decay
this technique might be useful for closeups of insects, spiders and beetles etc
:)
Great images. It was interesting to read Alexey Kljatov’s blog about his techniques.
http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/my-technique-for-snowflakes-shooting.html (including design detail)
http://chaoticmind75.blogspot.ru/2013/08/about-averaging-identical-shots.html (software techniques)
I can see some time wasting with my old 35 mm SLR film camera lenses. It always seemed such a waste to put them permanently to one side. Maybe reuse is still possible.
:) :)
A lot of fun to be had. :)
I hope so.
If I work something out, I’ll post it here.
Tomorrow: dust off old SLR camera box and try various lenses and set-ups. My point-n-shoot has a 3X zoom, his has 6X zoom. He uses a 58mm lens. I’ll try my 28 mm lens first, but I have a 55mm and a 70-210 to play with as well, along with various other things, including a vintage Leitz microscope…
Michael V said:
I hope so.If I work something out, I’ll post it here.
Tomorrow: dust off old SLR camera box and try various lenses and set-ups. My point-n-shoot has a 3X zoom, his has 6X zoom. He uses a 58mm lens. I’ll try my 28 mm lens first, but I have a 55mm and a 70-210 to play with as well, along with various other things, including a vintage Leitz microscope…
Your SLR is/was?
The 28mm lens will cause the focal distance to be very short, if you include extension between lenses.
The 70-210 will allow you to move further back and thus gain more latitude.
I’ve got a beautiful set of double rail bellows made for the Canon F1 series.. I need to turn up a mount so that I can attach it to my Nikon, then another mount to attach my nikon lenses. Don’t think there exists a Canon-Nikon adapter ring.
roughbarked said:
The russian guy uses the lens back-to-front. Distance from the camera’s front element and the back-to-front 58mm lens front element is <1mm.
Michael V said:
I hope so.If I work something out, I’ll post it here.
Tomorrow: dust off old SLR camera box and try various lenses and set-ups. My point-n-shoot has a 3X zoom, his has 6X zoom. He uses a 58mm lens. I’ll try my 28 mm lens first, but I have a 55mm and a 70-210 to play with as well, along with various other things, including a vintage Leitz microscope…
Your SLR is/was?
The 28mm lens will cause the focal distance to be very short, if you include extension between lenses.
The 70-210 will allow you to move further back and thus gain more latitude.
Suck it and see, I guess.
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:The russian guy uses the lens back-to-front. Distance from the camera’s front element and the back-to-front 58mm lens front element is <1mm.
Michael V said:
I hope so.If I work something out, I’ll post it here.
Tomorrow: dust off old SLR camera box and try various lenses and set-ups. My point-n-shoot has a 3X zoom, his has 6X zoom. He uses a 58mm lens. I’ll try my 28 mm lens first, but I have a 55mm and a 70-210 to play with as well, along with various other things, including a vintage Leitz microscope…
Your SLR is/was?
The 28mm lens will cause the focal distance to be very short, if you include extension between lenses.
The 70-210 will allow you to move further back and thus gain more latitude.
Suck it and see, I guess.
Yes. There are several combinations to test.
If Horsetail Fall is flowing in February and the weather conditions are just right, the setting sun illuminates the waterfall, making it glow orange and red
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…
Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
Riff-in-Thyme said:
So where is this waterfall?
If Horsetail Fall is flowing in February and the weather conditions are just right, the setting sun illuminates the waterfall, making it glow orange and redhttps://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q83/s720×720/1459754_259222290896683_1513775294_n.jpg!
Michael V said:
A lot of geos these days use their iPhone for work photos…
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
Michael V said:
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
Michael V said:
Michael V said:A lot of geos these days use their iPhone for work photos…
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
The iPhone has a good camera lens. I’ve seen some stunning shots from them.
Michael V said:
Riff-in-Thyme said:So where is this waterfall?
If Horsetail Fall is flowing in February and the weather conditions are just right, the setting sun illuminates the waterfall, making it glow orange and redhttps://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q83/s720×720/1459754_259222290896683_1513775294_n.jpg!
Yosemite.
roughbarked said:
Bugger.
Michael V said:
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
roughbarked said:
Ah. Long way from home.
Michael V said:
Riff-in-Thyme said:So where is this waterfall?
If Horsetail Fall is flowing in February and the weather conditions are just right, the setting sun illuminates the waterfall, making it glow orange and redhttps://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q83/s720×720/1459754_259222290896683_1513775294_n.jpg!
Yosemite.
I accidentally took a nice stereo pair looking up the Yosemite valley at sunset in 1993. Slides. I must check them out.
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:Bugger.
Michael V said:
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
Yeah. You know that the Jewelers I worked with have still got watch repairs and jewellery repairs that people haven’t picked up for 50 years. Still there waiting for them to come back.
Michael V said:
I bought my Ricoh in 1984. Came with a 55 mm lens.,
roughbarked said:Bugger.
Michael V said:
Your SLR is/was?
———————————-
A Ricoh. Really nice camera. Uses Pentax K-mount lens system. Aperture priority, centre-weighted, with manual over-ride. Works well. Use the camera to give initial indication for settings, then modify to suit the subject…Has solar cells on the penta-prism casing that recharges its battery – giving it a 5+ year battery life.
I had its seals replaced and a major service about 10 years ago, and have used it very little since. These days, companies provide a digital camera for work photos, or I just buy one and bill them. They didn’t 20 years ago – I had to provide my own camera (and charge them for it).
I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
roughbarked said:
Huh!
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:Bugger.I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
Yeah. You know that the Jewelers I worked with have still got watch repairs and jewellery repairs that people haven’t picked up for 50 years. Still there waiting for them to come back.
Michael V said:
roughbarked said:Ah. Long way from home.
Michael V said:
So where is this waterfall?
Yosemite.
I accidentally took a nice stereo pair looking up the Yosemite valley at sunset in 1993. Slides. I must check them out.
Michael V said:
Michael V said:I bought my Ricoh in 1984. Came with a 55 mm lens.,
roughbarked said:Bugger.I had a Ricoh. One of their first SLRs. Some stupid repairman who allegedly went broke, never gave it back to me, stating that if I had left it with him for three months it was his. I still have the 50 mm lens.
Mine was in 1971. 50 mm lens.
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
pommiejohn said:
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
roughbarked said:
pommiejohn said:
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
Yeah.
Nice shots of the snowflakes. The hardest part is that fact that you have to do it outside in the freezing cold.
roughbarked said:
pommiejohn said:
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
From the dark ages of film photography I seem to remember close-up rings which were inserted between camera & lens,
pommiejohn said:
roughbarked said:
pommiejohn said:
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
Yeah.
Nice shots of the snowflakes. The hardest part is that fact that you have to do it outside in the freezing cold.
Set the timer and put it on a tripod with wireless feed to your computer screen?
Ta, pj. Won’t the 28mm (reversed) give greater magnification though?
In effect he is photographing through a magnifying glass, I think.
Anyway – off to put the washing on the line, and then dust off the old SLR case and do some experiments…
Tamb said:
roughbarked said:
pommiejohn said:
IO haven’t read the whole thread MV, but RB is correct about working distance. The longer the focal length of the lens the greater distance from the subject you can be. This is handy for macro photography.
The reason they reverse the lens is because it’s cheaper than buying a macro lens. Essentially a standard lens is designed to take big things ( landscapes, people, buildings) and make small images on film of them. A macro lens is designed to take small things and make big ( or at least the same size ) images of them. Turning a standard lens around gives a similar effect.
Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
From the dark ages of film photography I seem to remember close-up rings which were inserted between camera & lens,
These are called extension tubes and I mentioned this aspect with extension between body and lens or lens and lens.
the diopter filters.. http://www.marumi-international.com/general/page4.html
Michael V said:
Ta, pj. Won’t the 28mm (reversed) give greater magnification though?In effect he is photographing through a magnifying glass, I think.
Anyway – off to put the washing on the line, and then dust off the old SLR case and do some experiments…
any magnifying glass taped to the front of a lens will give a result.
Do expect the focal range to change within the image like someone bubbled it up in the middle though.
roughbarked said:
Tamb said:
roughbarked said:Can also use what were once called diopter lenses which screw into the front of the lens. magnifying filters..
From the dark ages of film photography I seem to remember close-up rings which were inserted between camera & lens,
These are called extension tubes and I mentioned this aspect with extension between body and lens or lens and lens.
the diopter filters.. http://www.marumi-international.com/general/page4.html
Tamb said:
roughbarked said:
Tamb said:From the dark ages of film photography I seem to remember close-up rings which were inserted between camera & lens,
These are called extension tubes and I mentioned this aspect with extension between body and lens or lens and lens.
the diopter filters.. http://www.marumi-international.com/general/page4.html
Thanks roughie. Yes, extension tubes. I must have missed your previous mention of them.
http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/a-poor-mans-guide-to-budget-macro-photography—photo-2857
Anyway. My first set of extension tubes cost me $5 and I used them for more than a decade until I changed from screw thread to Nikon bayonet mounts. I still have an adapter to attach them to the Tamron with but no point because I have Nikon extension tubes.
roughbarked said:
Tamb said:
roughbarked said:These are called extension tubes and I mentioned this aspect with extension between body and lens or lens and lens.
the diopter filters.. http://www.marumi-international.com/general/page4.html
Thanks roughie. Yes, extension tubes. I must have missed your previous mention of them.
I didn’t actually mention them specifically. Though I did mention extension.http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/a-poor-mans-guide-to-budget-macro-photography—photo-2857
Anyway. My first set of extension tubes cost me $5 and I used them for more than a decade until I changed from screw thread to Nikon bayonet mounts. I still have an adapter to attach them to the Tamron with but no point because I have Nikon extension tubes.
I stayed with my Pentax Spotmatic for about 30 years before I got into digital. I donated all my old stuff to a local photographic museum. http://www.spycameramuseum.com.au/Site/Home.html#.UpfSVCef_YQ
Tamb said:
roughbarked said:
Tamb said:Thanks roughie. Yes, extension tubes. I must have missed your previous mention of them.
I didn’t actually mention them specifically. Though I did mention extension.http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/a-poor-mans-guide-to-budget-macro-photography—photo-2857
Anyway. My first set of extension tubes cost me $5 and I used them for more than a decade until I changed from screw thread to Nikon bayonet mounts. I still have an adapter to attach them to the Tamron with but no point because I have Nikon extension tubes.
I stayed with my Pentax Spotmatic for about 30 years before I got into digital. I donated all my old stuff to a local photographic museum. http://www.spycameramuseum.com.au/Site/Home.html#.UpfSVCef_YQ
I would have stayed with the Spotmatic if I’d owned one. The problem always was the expense of photography as a hobby when RealLife™ usually gobbles most of the moolah that comes past me. ands that I’m accident prone and dropped my Ricoh (which was to my my choice over the spotmatic due to the vertical metal shutter) from a tree whilst negotiating the climb down from a birds nest. The camera strap came undone and the lens broke from the camera body at the lens mounting plate and rolled into the irrigation canal.
Tamb said:
I stayed with my Pentax Spotmatic for about 30 years before I got into digital. I donated all my old stuff to a local photographic museum. http://www.spycameramuseum.com.au/Site/Home.html#.UpfSVCef_YQ
I still have my Pentax Spotmatic F with the 1.4 lens. My first proper camera I bought around 1974.
It still works
I bought my Spotmatic after a visit to some South African game reserves.
Got out of the car with my Instamatic to photograph a rhino. Walked up to it so it filled the frame. Took the pic, moved the camera away from my eye to find the rhino about 3 metres away. Went straight back to Joburg & bought an SLR with a big lens.
pommiejohn said:
Tamb said:I stayed with my Pentax Spotmatic for about 30 years before I got into digital. I donated all my old stuff to a local photographic museum. http://www.spycameramuseum.com.au/Site/Home.html#.UpfSVCef_YQ
I still have my Pentax Spotmatic F with the 1.4 lens. My first proper camera I bought around 1974.
It still works
My son had an F. Mine was a Spotmatic II circa 1970.
Tamb said:
pommiejohn said:
Tamb said:I stayed with my Pentax Spotmatic for about 30 years before I got into digital. I donated all my old stuff to a local photographic museum. http://www.spycameramuseum.com.au/Site/Home.html#.UpfSVCef_YQ
I still have my Pentax Spotmatic F with the 1.4 lens. My first proper camera I bought around 1974.
It still works
My son had an F. Mine was a Spotmatic II circa 1970.
I’ve fixed Spotmatics. They had a problem with the film wind mechanism. However I never owned one. Loved the way they felt in the hand though. Nice cameras.
All those old cameras could still work well if a digital back was fitted. Let’s face it, film is just too expensive unless someone else is paying for it.The Pentax’ biggest drawback was the very noisy shutter.
Sneak up on a dik dik, line up the shot, push the button & clunk dik dik now a dot in the distance.
Tamb said:
The Pentax’ biggest drawback was the very noisy shutter.
Sneak up on a dik dik, line up the shot, push the button & clunk dik dik now a dot in the distance.
Yes.. for a cloth shutter.. it was a noisy mechanism.
It was the shutter that caused me to purchase the Ricoh.. The cheapest vertical metal shutter on the market at the time.
Interesting.
It turns out that the 55mm lens used in the standard direction with close-up lenses fitted on the front of it works the best, as far as I can see. And the camera’s automatic focus seems to work best that way. I got shakey photos of Purslane flowers (4 mm) at 1/4 frame, and a spider at > full frame. Its body was 9 mm long.
Problem 1: holding it all together. Fixable like the Russian guy did. Possibly even simpler, but using the same principles.
Problem 2: shake. Fixable with tripod. Now, why did I get rid of that tripod? (sigh)
Anyway, food for thought.
Michael V said:
Interesting.It turns out that the 55mm lens used in the standard direction with close-up lenses fitted on the front of it works the best, as far as I can see. And the camera’s automatic focus seems to work best that way. I got shakey photos of Purslane flowers (4 mm) at 1/4 frame, and a spider at > full frame. Its body was 9 mm long.
Problem 1: holding it all together. Fixable like the Russian guy did. Possibly even simpler, but using the same principles.
Problem 2: shake. Fixable with tripod. Now, why did I get rid of that tripod? (sigh)
Anyway, food for thought.
did it turn a light blub on?
