Not sure that this is science, but I’ve worked with corrosion scientists and still have no clue.

Wish to remove rust from many old tools – drills, wrenches, files etc.

I saw on “Backyard Science” TV program that the phosphoric acid in cola cleans rust if left for, was it 1 hour?, and followed by steel wool scrubbing.

I have some phosphoric acid (intended for cleaning grout from tiles), that says for tiles to dilute and then leave on for only 1-2 minutes before wiping off.

So, what concentration phosphoric acid for how long? Followed by what sort of scrubbing? Is it safe to hold the phosphoric acid in an old icecream container? How about a styrofoam container?

Following rust removal, I want to protect the tools. So oil – but which oil would work? Obviously not WD40 (disappears too fast) or grease (too sticky). What about car engine oil? Sewing machine oil?

I personally would be looking at electrolytic rust removal.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

CLR claims to remove it.

I thought that phosphoric acid makes iron phosphate a hard water tight barrier that also stops further rusting happening

as far as I knew it would turn the thing black not clean it , I’ve only ever used it as rust killer not cleaner

i use engine oil. wd40 and the other one….crc56 are not protective coating oils.

Bloody hell, what is wrong with you people?

I’ve been in making the mash.

WB&D

you could use hydrochloric acid on rust I suppose to remove it

> i use engine oil

Good. That’s a good start.

Web videos do show that phosphoric acid does remove rust, even without scouring. But at what concentration over what time?

Phosphoric Acid is one of the active components in ‘Rust Converter’ solutions, and ‘Stain & Scale Removers’ to protect the concrete reo in water supply/tank/pool applications.

H3PO4 is sold as “Rust converter” in auto stores. I can’t be bothered with the chemistry, pretty much everyone here is quite able to do it on their own. It works. It leaves you with a nice hard black surface.

Depending on what the tools are, is it worth trying to resurrect them? If they’re badly rusted, it may not be worth the effort if you need accuracy.

I’ve got some sockets that had H2SO4 on them (long story). They lost their Chrome coating and corroded enough that they no longer have their sizes visible. Being dumped in hot sump oil (and regular WD40) seemed to do the trick.

JFTR, the traditional treatment for rust on hand-tools is a long bath in Molasses.

Keep your tool in a dry metal draw, they will rust far less that way.

Spiny Norman said:

Keep your tool in a dry metal draw, they will rust far less that way.

I give mine a light spray and wipe with wd40 to stop rust

Spiny Norman said:

Keep your tool in a dry metal draw, they will rust far less that way.

You don’t live on a tiny finger of land between Port Philip and Bass Strait, do you?

;-(

Spiny Norman said:

Keep your tool in a dry metal draw, they will rust far less that way.

Better to keep it most

Rule 303 said:

Spiny Norman said:

Keep your tool in a dry metal draw, they will rust far less that way.

You don’t live on a tiny finger of land between Port Philip and Bass Strait, do you?

;-(

…or Cairns.

> Depending on what the tools are, is it worth trying to resurrect them? If they’re badly rusted, it may not be worth the effort if you need accuracy.

For some of them that is very definitely true.

I used engine oil last time, wont bother doing that again.

Instead i’ll just go back to cleaning them in a mix of diesel and petrol, apply a bit of CRC or oil specifically to moving parts as required, but not much of that.

Dad’s crazy about dropping everything in acid, seems to perk him up some, frankly a bit of rust is good, I mean look at concrete reinforcing, even chrome, just think of rusty tools as being like chrome without the shine.

Can’t beat washing in a mix of diesel and petrol IMO. You can buff them some on the wire-brush grinder wheel.

And here ends the story about how to shine etc ones tool.

But at what concentration over what time?
——————————————————————————

You may be over thinking it…

All solvents are divisible by elbow grease/over time…

Preserve your tools in gun oil. oilcloth soaked in it.

Sachets of silica gel. People throw them away all the time.. re-use them by placing them with your tools.

I use a product called Ranex. It is a mild phosphoric acid which doesn’t damage your skin if you get some on you. Just don’t spill it on concrete or limestone.

> Can’t beat washing in a mix of diesel and petrol IMO. You can buff them some on the wire-brush grinder wheel.

So, wire brush and diesel. OK.

> gun oil

Gun oil?

Sump oil.

>Sump oil.

keep the whiteants at bay, get some cancer along the way

>Is it safe to hold the phosphoric acid in an old icecream container? How about a styrofoam container?

Yes in both cases.

transition said:

>Sump oil.

keep the whiteants at bay, get some cancer along the way

Well you can always wear gloves.. I always do..

Same as when I spread it on sandwiches.

>Same as when I spread it on sandwiches

let me know which deli you work at

Rust ~ Never sleeps.