I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Probably getting tired by now.
Go on full lock & move off from rest. Listen for clicking noises. Do this for both locks.

Tamb said:

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Probably getting tired by now.
Go on full lock & move off from rest. Listen for clicking noises. Do this for both locks.

Tamb thankyou, slight clicking noise on right lock, can’t hear for left lock, will need somebody to drive it for me, but the noise on right lock is slight, and there is no feel through the steering wheel.

bob(from black rock) said:

Tamb said:

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Probably getting tired by now.
Go on full lock & move off from rest. Listen for clicking noises. Do this for both locks.

Tamb thankyou, slight clicking noise on right lock, can’t hear for left lock, will need somebody to drive it for me, but the noise on right lock is slight, and there is no feel through the steering wheel.

S’OK mate. I’ve owned a few pommy fwd cars. Made more noise then Ringo Starr.

Tamb said:

bob(from black rock) said:

Tamb said:

Probably getting tired by now.
Go on full lock & move off from rest. Listen for clicking noises. Do this for both locks.

Tamb thankyou, slight clicking noise on right lock, can’t hear for left lock, will need somebody to drive it for me, but the noise on right lock is slight, and there is no feel through the steering wheel.

S’OK mate. I’ve owned a few pommy fwd cars. Made more noise then Ringo Starr.

:-) tamb thankyou, the noise is only noticeable at low speed too.

I tested a car for whether teh 4WD worked. I put it 4WD and teh light didn’t appear on the dash. I got out and put the manual hubs in., tried to drive in 1st low on a dirt road with a light dusting of fine surface gravel. I could hear the back wheels slipping on the gravel.. This would indicate to me that they were trying hard to push a reluctant front pair of wheels.

Am I correct in such an assumption?

bob(from black rock) said:

Tamb said:

bob(from black rock) said:

Tamb thankyou, slight clicking noise on right lock, can’t hear for left lock, will need somebody to drive it for me, but the noise on right lock is slight, and there is no feel through the steering wheel.

S’OK mate. I’ve owned a few pommy fwd cars. Made more noise then Ringo Starr.

:-) tamb thankyou, the noise is only noticeable at low speed too.

You’re not often on full lock at speed & if you are it’s no wonder the CVs are fatigued.
Are the CV boots OK? No use changing the CV if the boot lets gravel etc in.

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Shagged no doubt.
As mentioned above you can check them reasonably well by applying full-lock and listening for a clicking noise. There are shops that sell replacement units, any garage cna swap them easily.

Tamb said:

bob(from black rock) said:

Tamb said:

S’OK mate. I’ve owned a few pommy fwd cars. Made more noise then Ringo Starr.

:-) tamb thankyou, the noise is only noticeable at low speed too.

You’re not often on full lock at speed & if you are it’s no wonder the CVs are fatigued.
Are the CV boots OK? No use changing the CV if the boot lets gravel etc in.

.Next time I’m under it I will get a better look,but what I can see of the boots they seem OK

roughbarked said:

I tested a car for whether teh 4WD worked. I put it 4WD and teh light didn’t appear on the dash. I got out and put the manual hubs in., tried to drive in 1st low on a dirt road with a light dusting of fine surface gravel. I could hear the back wheels slipping on the gravel.. This would indicate to me that they were trying hard to push a reluctant front pair of wheels.

Am I correct in such an assumption?

Not too sure roughy.
Try gentle reverse, come out of 4wd & start again. Often the gear train gets bound up & needs freeing. Don’t be too alarmed if a loud thump sound occurs.

Spiny Norman said:

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Shagged no doubt.
As mentioned above you can check them reasonably well by applying full-lock and listening for a clicking noise. There are shops that sell replacement units, any garage cna swap them easily.

.

Spiny Norman, thanks, I have a friend who has a front wheel drive car, and it rattles something fierce on full lock, and has done so for years, so I guess there is no real urgency.

bob(from black rock) said:

Spiny Norman said:

bob(from black rock) said:

I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage? and how can you tell without dismantleing them?

Shagged no doubt.
As mentioned above you can check them reasonably well by applying full-lock and listening for a clicking noise. There are shops that sell replacement units, any garage cna swap them easily.

You’re doing less than 1600 kilometres.a year Bob

Spiny Norman, thanks, I have a friend who has a front wheel drive car, and it rattles something fierce on full lock, and has done so for years, so I guess there is no real urgency.

Only problem is if the CV joint collapses. Then either the car won’t move or, worse, that wheel will lock causing you to take a sudden detour into the shrubbery.

>Are the CV boots OK? No use changing the CV if the boot lets gravel etc in.

Certainly shortens there life, a lot. If it has damaged boots but CVs aren’t too bad you can clean, repack with lithium grease or whatever and get plenty more mileage.

You can check if locked in 4×4 by pulling on the handbrake :). If you lose steering control or go through the windscreen, well you might guess it was in 4×4, if you survive.

transition said:

>Are the CV boots OK? No use changing the CV if the boot lets gravel etc in.

Certainly shortens there life, a lot. If it has damaged boots but CVs aren’t too bad you can clean, repack with lithium grease or whatever and get plenty more mileage.

You can check if locked in 4×4 by pulling on the handbrake :). If you lose steering control or go through the windscreen, well you might guess it was in 4×4, if you survive.

Sound advice transition. Provided the handbrake works. Or it’s not a tailshaft handbrake.

>Sound advice transition. Provided the handbrake works. Or it’s not a tailshaft handbrake.

Note sound qualifications^. How are you, Tamb.

Go do a bit here, plenty to do before head off, change GB oil in 4×4 in moment, chuck some stabilizer in it too, be getting toward end of its life heading for another rebuild.

transition said:

>Sound advice transition. Provided the handbrake works. Or it’s not a tailshaft handbrake.

Note sound qualifications^. How are you, Tamb.

Go do a bit here, plenty to do before head off, change GB oil in 4×4 in moment, chuck some stabilizer in it too, be getting toward end of its life heading for another rebuild.

Pretty good thanks T.
My 4wd driving is now confined to firetrucks but then it’s really hairy stuff.

the noise is only noticeable at low speed too.
————————————————

Funny that…

Same with the radio, either the sound goes up as you slow or the back ground noise lessens…

> I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 341,342 kms on the clock, how would the CV joints be at this stage?

The CV joints wore out on my Toyota Corolla well before that number of km, but that was a much earlier model.