Date: 27/03/2014 15:16:43
From: CrazyNeutrino
ID: 509667
Subject: Soldering Question
What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
CrazyNeutrino said:
What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
Will depend upon the type of solder used; and I’ve never played around with the new lead free stuff, so I’ve no idea how that handles.
Why do the Septic tanks call it “sodder”?
to annoy people.
Probably the same reason they say ‘erbs instead of herbs.
Hakko mach-I, mod 921, 55W, 370C, 240V, very simple excellent performance iron, seems tough enough too.
bob(from black rock) said:
Why do the Septic tanks call it “sodder”?
Because they’re ignorant monkeys who don’t know any better.
</HHGTTG>
CrazyNeutrino said:
What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
Are they surface mount components? What does the data sheet say about maximum temperatures (there’s always a note about soldering in max. tempx.)? Are you using lead-free solder (tin/silver/copper)? I tend to use about 200-220oC for surface-mount ICs and lead-free solder, and try to keep it down to about 10-15 seconds.
Wocky said:
bob(from black rock) said:
Why do the Septic tanks call it “sodder”?
Because they’re ignorant monkeys who don’t know any better.
</HHGTTG>
bob(from black rock) said:
Why do the Septic tanks call it “sodder”?
Etymology: Middle English soudur, from Old French soudure, soldure, from souder, soulder, to solder, from Latin solidre, to make solid, from solidus, solid. See solid.
diddly-squat said:
bob(from black rock) said:
Why do the Septic tanks call it “sodder”?
Etymology: Middle English soudur, from Old French soudure, soldure, from souder, soulder, to solder, from Latin solidre, to make solid, from solidus, solid. See solid.
diddly, thankyou, they do have some excuse.
I’m putting together a class a preamp based on a kit I got from ebay
there was not much information to go on
this is the link to the kit
its based on a Naim Nac 42.5
my next project will be a
Hiraga super 30W class A amplifier kit
After 20 years or so messing around with various kits and electronics Im still finding I lack skills and such, Im still learning to solder, my soldering is getting better with practice
I have a weller temp controlled 60 watt soldering iron, would this be ok for the transistors?
I haven’t considered the power supplies yet, for the preamp the link says Power supply input : AC single 20-24V, you can series connect a dual 10V or dual 12V transformer to power it
I dont know what a dual 12V transformer is yet
CrazyNeutrino said:
I dont know what a dual 12V transformer is yet
A transformer with two secondary outputs. In this case they’re saying get a transformer with two 12 volt secondaries (if you can’t source a 24 volt) and wire the secondaries in series to get the required 24 volts.
You just have to be careful as the secondaries are ‘polarity dependent”.
sibeen said:
CrazyNeutrino said:I dont know what a dual 12V transformer is yet
A transformer with two secondary outputs. In this case they’re saying get a transformer with two 12 volt secondaries (if you can’t source a 24 volt) and wire the secondaries in series to get the required 24 volts.
You just have to be careful as the secondaries are ‘polarity dependent”.
Ok, thanks for that
CrazyNeutrino said:
What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
I need to know that too, will be soldering transistors to an Arduino micro, using thick solder that is at least 40 years old.
>using thick solder that is at least 40 years old.
Might not take so well if badly tarnished.
Wocky said:
CrazyNeutrino said:What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
Are they surface mount components? What does the data sheet say about maximum temperatures (there’s always a note about soldering in max. tempx.)? Are you using lead-free solder (tin/silver/copper)? I tend to use about 200-220oC for surface-mount ICs and lead-free solder, and try to keep it down to about 10-15 seconds.
ok Ill try to find the data sheets for the transistors and the IC’s
mollwollfumble said:
CrazyNeutrino said:What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
I need to know that too, will be soldering transistors to an Arduino micro, using thick solder that is at least 40 years old.
It may well be the wrong solder type.
Soldering iron for fragile stuff
Thin tip to get into small places
Melt some solder onto tip to ton tip
Melt some solder on to tip again so there’s a blob on it
Apply tip to two surfaces simultaneously and stick the solder stick onto it
The solder flows onto the two surfaces
I have found some soldering tips
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
wookiemeister said:
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
You only want to melt the solder.
>I dont know what a dual 12V transformer is yet
Two windings, same each, joined at the right place (series) doubles voltage (currrent max is not doubled, stays same as single).
Class A amplifiers tend to just have single + and /ground rail, no crossover from one device to another as the signal is reproduced – but additionally a dual tranformer can be used for class B amplifiers too (for example), which take the centretap of where the series winding join and use that as ground, and output of the class B amplifier swings +/ around that (after the tranformer is fed into a bridge rectifier to make DC). They call it push-pull or complementary symmetry in the case of modern arrangements using opposite N and P devices for outputs. The NPN device for example as emitter-follower will have its collector fed via the + rail and drive your cone forward (if speakers wired correctly), then as the signal swings down it will crossover to the P device and be pulled toward the – rail to hopefully follow the music signal without too much distortion. Bit of feedback in a class B and you don’t get any noticable distortion anyway, in fact I’ve seen design-minimised arrangements that work quite well with no feedback.
Might have broke a rule there re denoting P and N devices.
Wocky said:
CrazyNeutrino said:What temperature soldering iron is best suited for soldering ic’s and modern transistors?
Are they surface mount components? What does the data sheet say about maximum temperatures (there’s always a note about soldering in max. tempx.)? Are you using lead-free solder (tin/silver/copper)? I tend to use about 200-220oC for surface-mount ICs and lead-free solder, and try to keep it down to about 10-15 seconds.
10 to 15 seconds? WTF!
OK, I have never used the newer lead free solders but a joint should take no more that 2 or 3 seconds.
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
You only want to melt the solder.
you don’t want too much heat or it will cook the device
a solder should only take a few seconds to complete when the solder melts around the legs
… using thick solder that is at least 40 years old.
why?
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
You only want to melt the solder.
the legs have to be hot to allow the solder to work properlyyou don’t want too much heat or it will cook the device
a solder should only take a few seconds to complete when the solder melts around the legs
Which is why;
You need a solder with the correct melting point and an iron that does not get hotter nor hold heat for too long. The other aspect is that you keep the iron as far away from the device as is possible.
Boris said:
… using thick solder that is at least 40 years old.why?
good question.
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:You only want to melt the solder.
the legs have to be hot to allow the solder to work properlyyou don’t want too much heat or it will cook the device
a solder should only take a few seconds to complete when the solder melts around the legs
Which is why;
You need a solder with the correct melting point and an iron that does not get hotter nor hold heat for too long. The other aspect is that you keep the iron as far away from the device as is possible.
with most electronic devices being soldered onto a board you rarely have the luxury of being as far away as possible.
the classic sign of a bad solder is the bubble type of solder that you sometimes see on a leg
a good soldered joint usually uses very little solder and has more of a concave look to it, it sucks down to the board
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:the legs have to be hot to allow the solder to work properly
you don’t want too much heat or it will cook the device
a solder should only take a few seconds to complete when the solder melts around the legs
Which is why;
You need a solder with the correct melting point and an iron that does not get hotter nor hold heat for too long. The other aspect is that you keep the iron as far away from the device as is possible.
basic tin lead solder 60/40 will be good enough I have the soldering iron set for around 300 degwith most electronic devices being soldered onto a board you rarely have the luxury of being as far away as possible.
the classic sign of a bad solder is the bubble type of solder that you sometimes see on a leg
a good soldered joint usually uses very little solder and has more of a concave look to it, it sucks down to the board
The length of the legs provided is usually enough distance.
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:Which is why;
You need a solder with the correct melting point and an iron that does not get hotter nor hold heat for too long. The other aspect is that you keep the iron as far away from the device as is possible.
basic tin lead solder 60/40 will be good enough I have the soldering iron set for around 300 degwith most electronic devices being soldered onto a board you rarely have the luxury of being as far away as possible.
the classic sign of a bad solder is the bubble type of solder that you sometimes see on a leg
a good soldered joint usually uses very little solder and has more of a concave look to it, it sucks down to the board
The length of the legs provided is usually enough distance.
and before you tell me that the leg shouldn’t be heated , yes it does
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:basic tin lead solder 60/40 will be good enough I have the soldering iron set for around 300 deg
with most electronic devices being soldered onto a board you rarely have the luxury of being as far away as possible.
the classic sign of a bad solder is the bubble type of solder that you sometimes see on a leg
a good soldered joint usually uses very little solder and has more of a concave look to it, it sucks down to the board
The length of the legs provided is usually enough distance.
not if you hold the iron on them for too long
Think I did mention something about too long. ;)
you only need to melt the solder and allow it to cool correctly.by rights it should be the joint that melts the solder , not the soldering iron itself
though I tend to find that trying to do that is fraught with danger
wookiemeister said:
and before you tell me that the leg shouldn’t be heated , yes it does
only enough to accept the molten solder temp.
roughbarked said:
the joint has to be hot enough to melt the solder
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:The length of the legs provided is usually enough distance.
not if you hold the iron on them for too longThink I did mention something about too long. ;)
you only need to melt the solder and allow it to cool correctly.
you should be able to put some solder on the joint and the solder melts and then runs around the entire connection
I normally stick the tinned nose of the soldering iron onto the joint briefly
stick the solder onto that junction and the solder should flow around the connection
our tafe teacher showed us that it should only take a very small amount of solder to make a very strong connection – enough to hang off
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:the joint has to be hot enough to melt the solder
wookiemeister said:not if you hold the iron on them for too long
Think I did mention something about too long. ;)
you only need to melt the solder and allow it to cool correctly.you should be able to put some solder on the joint and the solder melts and then runs around the entire connection
The joint only needs to accept the solder. Otherwise we’d be bolting lots of tiny brackets on. You aren’t welding.
anyway there should be enough info here
theres heap of specific advice on the net
you should practice on some scrap boards and components before doing it for real
wookiemeister said:
anyway there should be enough info heretheres heap of specific advice on the net
you should practice on some scrap boards and components before doing it for real
Oh I’ve got heaps of cast off electronic watch and clock boards to practice on..
>10 to 15 seconds? WTF!
radiator repair perhaps, I could silver solder a half inch copper pipe joint in that time.
>OK, I have never used the newer lead free solders but a joint should take no more that 2 or 3 seconds.
fairly much.
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
You only want to melt the solder.
It’s true that hopefully there will be heat transfer from the solder to connection but the correct way is that the whole connection should be hot, this way the connection doesn’t suffer fron reliability problems – high resistance/ cracking
wookiemeister said:
roughbarked said:
wookiemeister said:
Don’t heat up the legs too much or you’ll cook the device
You only want to melt the solder.
No, the whole connection needs to be heated before applying the solderIt’s true that hopefully there will be heat transfer from the solder to connection but the correct way is that the whole connection should be hot, this way the connection doesn’t suffer fron reliability problems – high resistance/ cracking
It only needs to get hot enough for long enough to accept the solder. No hotter and no longer and as has been indicated here, that should be at or less than 2 seconds duration.
Having the junction hot allows the flux to work properly i think
Then the solder gets laid down once the flux had cleaned the connection
One last point
If you are doing soldering , do it in a well ventilated area
Have a fan at your back that will take the fumes away from you, breathing them is not good
You can get one of those magnifying light things that allows you solder whilst zooming in on the area