Ok I am at work on the windows again, the old putty needs to be removed but it’s very hard.
P and I were discussing the matter and he suggested chiselling? Much of the old putty has fallen off but that which remains is truly stuck. I now have putty and would like to fix the windows whilst the weather is cool and likely to stay dry for a couple of weeks.
can’t help you here, never done it myself!
My father put the panes in with fresh putty, about 1966, which is getting on for 50 years ago. The window above where the slow combustion was, has dry rot you wouldn’t believe but is still a sound frame. I’ve scraped and sanded back to good wood, and plan to treat with 1:1 turps:linseed oil but it’s been a bit cold for that lately. Also, the putty needs to be removed and replaced. I see where “somebody” has siliconed part of the frame, to stop the window from leaking I suppose…this is a nuisance but I don’t think I will undo the work.
Dinetta said:
Ok I am at work on the windows again, the old putty needs to be removed but it’s very hard.P and I were discussing the matter and he suggested chiselling? Much of the old putty has fallen off but that which remains is truly stuck. I now have putty and would like to fix the windows whilst the weather is cool and likely to stay dry for a couple of weeks.
Chisel is an accurate method of removing the hard, still stuck on bits. However if the putty is stuck on hard, damage may occur to the wooden parts. This is undesirable because it can cause loose (rattling) window panes, leaky window panes and simply look unsightly.
So. There are a few references fore softening old putty on the internet. Here is one.
If a window pane starts to rattle in the wind, you know it’s time to repair it. The pane itself may be perfectly good, so its the putty that needs changing. When window putty ages, it becomes hard and difficult to remove by scraping. Because window putty consists of linseed oil and clay, this technique uses a mixture of linseed oil and bleach to break down the material and make is easy to remove.
1
In a clean container, mix one pint of household bleach with one pint of linseed oil.
2
Apply the bleach/linseed oil mixture to the putty so that the putty becomes very wet. Wait one hour before applying another coat. Wait 24 hours.
3
Check the putty by scraping at it with a putty removal tool. If the putty doesn’t disintegrate rapidly or scrape off easily, apply another coat of the mixture and wait another 24 hours.
4
Check the putty. If the putty is still not dissolved, continue applying the mixture until the putty dissolves.
5
Sand wooden window components to ensure a clean, smooth bonding surface for new putty.
Things You Will Need
Tip
* Follow up with a special putty removal tool to remove the residual putty from the window.Warning
* Do not use heat guns to soften putty.from: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/dissolve-window-putty-98740.html
Also read this: and any other relevant links from the pages.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remove-old-wood-putty-34279.html
ie: you may also need this one: http://homeguides.sfgate.com/remove-putty-window-glass-34159.html
There are a couple of youtubes but I can’t view them to see how good they are.
here are those links.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0nGM4EVOMM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SrqsiG4J_8
Also here is another link to read:
http://www.myoldhouseonline.com/forum/topics/2114602:Topic:781
Note that using heat guns will increase the risk of broken glass.
Thanks RoughBarked…quite a tip regarding the linseed oil:bleach combo
I’m guessing you’d only make as much as you think you’d need? (not a keeper)…
The problem is most of the putty has fallen out naturally and so I ‘ve decided to redo entire windows, especially as I have a ladder high enough at the moment…
One would have thought the heat gun would be detrimental to the wood, I never thought about the glass…
Off to look at the videos…thanks
With the heat gun, care via nozzles and shields can restrict the effect of the heat to the putty only. However, glass may still be broken via any of the methods. It is one of those jobs that one must apply all care and then later deal with the responsibility.
Well I had a go with the chisel, the putty is coming of quite easily from the stove window. So is the dry rot. This window has been neglected since …. the early 1970’s, if not earlier…the other windows are not so bad…I started to apply the linseed and turps combo 1:1, the wood is coming up beautifully, I think it might even be silky oak. Texted this to P who texted back so fast it must be a record, and he said to scrape off “all” the paint and not paint over the wood but to treat it ..hope he means what I am doing…
The ladder is not very stable, I’m not sure how I can do the very western edge of the window…need a new brush as this one is not softening under the influence of being soaked in turps…
Dinetta said:
Well I had a go with the chisel, the putty is coming of quite easily from the stove window. So is the dry rot. This window has been neglected since …. the early 1970’s, if not earlier…the other windows are not so bad…I started to apply the linseed and turps combo 1:1, the wood is coming up beautifully, I think it might even be silky oak. Texted this to P who texted back so fast it must be a record, and he said to scrape off “all” the paint and not paint over the wood but to treat it ..hope he means what I am doing…The ladder is not very stable, I’m not sure how I can do the very western edge of the window…need a new brush as this one is not softening under the influence of being soaked in turps…
Tie the ladder to something, tightly. Put sandbags on the bottom rungs.
Silky Oak (Grevillea robusta) is usually used indoors rather than outdoors.
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
Well I had a go with the chisel, the putty is coming of quite easily from the stove window. So is the dry rot. This window has been neglected since …. the early 1970’s, if not earlier…the other windows are not so bad…I started to apply the linseed and turps combo 1:1, the wood is coming up beautifully, I think it might even be silky oak. Texted this to P who texted back so fast it must be a record, and he said to scrape off “all” the paint and not paint over the wood but to treat it ..hope he means what I am doing…The ladder is not very stable, I’m not sure how I can do the very western edge of the window…need a new brush as this one is not softening under the influence of being soaked in turps…
Tie the ladder to something, tightly. Put sandbags on the bottom rungs.
Silky Oak (Grevillea robusta) is usually used indoors rather than outdoors.
scratch the latter.
Before the advent of aluminium, Grevillea robusta timber was widely used for external window joinery, as it is resistant to wood rot. It has been used in the manufacture of furniture, cabinetry, and fences. Owing to declining G. robusta populations, felling has been restricted.
Recently G. robusta has been used for side and back woods on guitars made by Larrivée and others, because of its tonal and aesthetical qualities.
roughbarked said:
Before the advent of aluminium, Grevillea robusta timber was widely used for external window joinery, as it is resistant to wood rot. It has been used in the manufacture of furniture, cabinetry, and fences. Owing to declining G. robusta populations, felling has been restricted.
Not as robustu as we would have liked.
If they weren’t so valuable as shade on hot summer days, being on the western side of the house, I’d be thinking by now that those tiny seedlings I put there 35 years ago are about ready to fell and mill for timber. They are indeed approx 15 m tall and 1 m in diameter.
roughbarked said:
If they weren’t so valuable as shade on hot summer days, being on the western side of the house, I’d be thinking by now that those tiny seedlings I put there 35 years ago are about ready to fell and mill for timber. They are indeed approx 15 m tall and 1 m in diameter.
Silky oak furniture is interesting but not to my liking. It would be a waste to mill the trees IMHO.
We had one in the backyard where I grew up. It made a terrible mess and those leaves always got stuck in the rake.
Speedy said:
roughbarked said:
If they weren’t so valuable as shade on hot summer days, being on the western side of the house, I’d be thinking by now that those tiny seedlings I put there 35 years ago are about ready to fell and mill for timber. They are indeed approx 15 m tall and 1 m in diameter.
Silky oak furniture is interesting but not to my liking. It would be a waste to mill the trees IMHO.
We had one in the backyard where I grew up. It made a terrible mess and those leaves always got stuck in the rake.
A terrible mess is the same as one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
Silky Oak leaf mould is one of the greatest compost ingredients or simply as potting mix. Grows great orchids. The trees produce copious amounts.
Remember though that the weak and spindly seedlings will all be big trees in five years unless they are weeded out while young.
This shows approx., 3 m of trunk. The other 12 m simply disappears up there.
roughbarked said:
Speedy said:
roughbarked said:
If they weren’t so valuable as shade on hot summer days, being on the western side of the house, I’d be thinking by now that those tiny seedlings I put there 35 years ago are about ready to fell and mill for timber. They are indeed approx 15 m tall and 1 m in diameter.
Silky oak furniture is interesting but not to my liking. It would be a waste to mill the trees IMHO.
We had one in the backyard where I grew up. It made a terrible mess and those leaves always got stuck in the rake.
A terrible mess is the same as one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
Silky Oak leaf mould is one of the greatest compost ingredients or simply as potting mix. Grows great orchids. The trees produce copious amounts.
Remember though that the weak and spindly seedlings will all be big trees in five years unless they are weeded out while young.This shows approx., 3 m of trunk. The other 12 m simply disappears up there.
This is not the tree we had. The size and flowers were similar, but the bark was smoother. Around the base was regularly raked then mowed, so any seedlings (and the neighbour’s encroaching bamboo) were kept in check.
Speedy said:
roughbarked said:
Speedy said:Silky oak furniture is interesting but not to my liking. It would be a waste to mill the trees IMHO.
We had one in the backyard where I grew up. It made a terrible mess and those leaves always got stuck in the rake.
A terrible mess is the same as one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
Silky Oak leaf mould is one of the greatest compost ingredients or simply as potting mix. Grows great orchids. The trees produce copious amounts.
Remember though that the weak and spindly seedlings will all be big trees in five years unless they are weeded out while young.This shows approx., 3 m of trunk. The other 12 m simply disappears up there.
This is not the tree we had. The size and flowers were similar, but the bark was smoother. Around the base was regularly raked then mowed, so any seedlings (and the neighbour’s encroaching bamboo) were kept in check.
Younger bark is smoother. ie: a tree that has no water interruptions would have generally smoother bark.
Fascinating thread for me…P’s bed frame (the bed head and foot) is silky oak, and he has a 2 drawer of some description that is also silky oak…if the roof came over into eaves, instead of stopping at the gutters, the windows would not be affected. As it is, there is aluminium shade structures over the windows now, which was handy when a hail storm went through about 15 years ago..but no protection over this window as the slow combustion chimney went right up past it…
Is silky oak a water-searcher?
I’m currently attempting to move the silicon that some lazy sod sealed the window with, on the inside…
Dinetta said:
Fascinating thread for me…P’s bed frame (the bed head and foot) is silky oak, and he has a 2 drawer of some description that is also silky oak…if the roof came over into eaves, instead of stopping at the gutters, the windows would not be affected. As it is, there is aluminium shade structures over the windows now, which was handy when a hail storm went through about 15 years ago..but no protection over this window as the slow combustion chimney went right up past it…Is silky oak a water-searcher?
Yes.
Drat…
Dinetta said:
Drat…
Is the tree close to the house?
Oh goodness me no, I am looking at the western fence and down the back, but there’s sewerage pipes along the middle of the back yard and I think they’re also along the “front” of the back block…The tree close to the house is some local native tree, thick corky bark and slim leaves that hang down…I’m not sure about it’s root system but doubt that it’s a water seeker…still needs to go, tho’…
On another note, there is a white cedar right beside the concrete tank and I plan to chop that down within a month or so…clear the way for a new mango tree…
Dinetta said:
Oh goodness me no, I am looking at the western fence and down the back, but there’s sewerage pipes along the middle of the back yard and I think they’re also along the “front” of the back block…The tree close to the house is some local native tree, thick corky bark and slim leaves that hang down…I’m not sure about it’s root system but doubt that it’s a water seeker…still needs to go, tho’…On another note, there is a white cedar right beside the concrete tank and I plan to chop that down within a month or so…clear the way for a new mango tree…
I had to dig up my front path and cut out a large root that was quite a few metres away from the tree. Pipes are easily blocked or damaged by vigorous tree roots.
roughbarked said:
I had to dig up my front path and cut out a large root that was quite a few metres away from the tree. Pipes are easily blocked or damaged by vigorous tree roots.
Citrus trees should not be a bother?
J1 down the back has drippers on her trees 24/7/365…right at the base…I feel like saying “You should arrange the dripper around the drip line” (which is what I would do” but not sure of myself …
Dinetta said:
roughbarked said:I had to dig up my front path and cut out a large root that was quite a few metres away from the tree. Pipes are easily blocked or damaged by vigorous tree roots.
Citrus trees should not be a bother?
J1 down the back has drippers on her trees 24/7/365…right at the base…I feel like saying “You should arrange the dripper around the drip line” (which is what I would do” but not sure of myself …
Citrus should be OK. Yes, the primary feeding area of citrus trees is at the drip line.
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
roughbarked said:I had to dig up my front path and cut out a large root that was quite a few metres away from the tree. Pipes are easily blocked or damaged by vigorous tree roots.
Citrus trees should not be a bother?
J1 down the back has drippers on her trees 24/7/365…right at the base…I feel like saying “You should arrange the dripper around the drip line” (which is what I would do” but not sure of myself …
Citrus should be OK. Yes, the primary feeding area of citrus trees is at the drip line.
The “drip line” is where the water will naturally fall with rain but seeing as there is a constant water supply close to the base then that is where the feeder roots will grow I would think. If the water supply stops for some reason and the trees then had to rely on rainfall then it could be a problem until new feeder roots grow at the traditional drip line, although I expect that there will still be some there because of rainfall. Am I making sense here? Basically the roots will grow where the water supply is.
bluegreen said:
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:Citrus trees should not be a bother?
J1 down the back has drippers on her trees 24/7/365…right at the base…I feel like saying “You should arrange the dripper around the drip line” (which is what I would do” but not sure of myself …
Citrus should be OK. Yes, the primary feeding area of citrus trees is at the drip line.
The “drip line” is where the water will naturally fall with rain but seeing as there is a constant water supply close to the base then that is where the feeder roots will grow I would think. If the water supply stops for some reason and the trees then had to rely on rainfall then it could be a problem until new feeder roots grow at the traditional drip line, although I expect that there will still be some there because of rainfall. Am I making sense here? Basically the roots will grow where the water supply is.
While the tree is young it is best to keep the watered zone close to the tree but as the tree grows the feeder roots will seek watered zones further away. Forcing the roots to grow back towards the water will weaken the strength of the root system.
roughbarked said:
bluegreen said:
roughbarked said:Citrus should be OK. Yes, the primary feeding area of citrus trees is at the drip line.
The “drip line” is where the water will naturally fall with rain but seeing as there is a constant water supply close to the base then that is where the feeder roots will grow I would think. If the water supply stops for some reason and the trees then had to rely on rainfall then it could be a problem until new feeder roots grow at the traditional drip line, although I expect that there will still be some there because of rainfall. Am I making sense here? Basically the roots will grow where the water supply is.
While the tree is young it is best to keep the watered zone close to the tree but as the tree grows the feeder roots will seek watered zones further away. Forcing the roots to grow back towards the water will weaken the strength of the root system.
agreed.
bluegreen said:
roughbarked said:
bluegreen said:The “drip line” is where the water will naturally fall with rain but seeing as there is a constant water supply close to the base then that is where the feeder roots will grow I would think. If the water supply stops for some reason and the trees then had to rely on rainfall then it could be a problem until new feeder roots grow at the traditional drip line, although I expect that there will still be some there because of rainfall. Am I making sense here? Basically the roots will grow where the water supply is.
While the tree is young it is best to keep the watered zone close to the tree but as the tree grows the feeder roots will seek watered zones further away. Forcing the roots to grow back towards the water will weaken the strength of the root system.
agreed.
not that this has anything to do with windows :P
bluegreen said:
bluegreen said:
roughbarked said:While the tree is young it is best to keep the watered zone close to the tree but as the tree grows the feeder roots will seek watered zones further away. Forcing the roots to grow back towards the water will weaken the strength of the root system.
agreed.
not that this has anything to do with windows :P
I doubt that citrus would be ideal for window sash wood.
Well I was saying to Jim that the mango tree may be of use to local woodworking groups…been dead for 4 years now but no signs of borer…
Showed Mr D my handiwork, he just about drooled…he said to sand the paint back as much as possible then go ahead and treat it with the linseed/turps combo…the same for the window sill which is either ironbark (?) (doubt it) or a local eucalyptus (more likely)…this means all that windows fixings can be maintained without the bother of paint…
I notice a window in my ex-bedroom gets stuck on the sill…I have been humming and hawing, what to trim the window or the sill…have decided to trim the sill as the window frame would be difficult to replace but for the sill, I just need some eucalyptus or other hardwood …
Took out a Bunnings Handy Hints (or similar) from the library and it’s good for a novice like myself…had to give it back as couldn’t renew the loan but I can take it out again early next week…
Reckon that, in our lifetime, wood will become a luxury item again, as it was in Egypt in the ancient times…
Keeping this where I can find it…
Have been applying WD40 to the bolts on the wheel barrow wheel…might try tapping with a hammer now to see if that will loosen it, but I fear that the bolt and nut are together, forever…I need to see if I can find a wheel, should be standard…might have to go to the B shop…shudder…
Dinetta said:
Keeping this where I can find it…Have been applying WD40 to the bolts on the wheel barrow wheel…might try tapping with a hammer now to see if that will loosen it, but I fear that the bolt and nut are together, forever…I need to see if I can find a wheel, should be standard…might have to go to the B shop…shudder…
Tell me about this wheelbarrow?
Are the bolts simply bolts holding the axle of the wheel to the wheelbarrow or are these bolts actually holding the rim of the wheel together?
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
Keeping this where I can find it…Have been applying WD40 to the bolts on the wheel barrow wheel…might try tapping with a hammer now to see if that will loosen it, but I fear that the bolt and nut are together, forever…I need to see if I can find a wheel, should be standard…might have to go to the B shop…shudder…
Tell me about this wheelbarrow?
Are the bolts simply bolts holding the axle of the wheel to the wheelbarrow or are these bolts actually holding the rim of the wheel together?
Oh they are holding the axle of the wheel to the wheelbarrow. I need to get the wheel out so I can take it to a hardware store and obtain an accurate replacement. If I can just replace the tyre and tube (plus the bolts, it looks like) that would mean new life for the wheelbarrow…the barrow is in good condition, so is the frame…it’s just the tyre that’s derelict…
Dinetta said:
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
Keeping this where I can find it…Have been applying WD40 to the bolts on the wheel barrow wheel…might try tapping with a hammer now to see if that will loosen it, but I fear that the bolt and nut are together, forever…I need to see if I can find a wheel, should be standard…might have to go to the B shop…shudder…
Tell me about this wheelbarrow?
Are the bolts simply bolts holding the axle of the wheel to the wheelbarrow or are these bolts actually holding the rim of the wheel together?
Oh they are holding the axle of the wheel to the wheelbarrow. I need to get the wheel out so I can take it to a hardware store and obtain an accurate replacement. If I can just replace the tyre and tube (plus the bolts, it looks like) that would mean new life for the wheelbarrow…the barrow is in good condition, so is the frame…it’s just the tyre that’s derelict…
Have you tried with a spanner on each end of the bolts or are they coach head bolts? ie; coach head have a convex smooth head with the square under the head and these are difficult to get a spanner under the head.
roughbarked said:
Have you tried with a spanner on each end of the bolts or are they coach head bolts? ie; coach head have a convex smooth head with the square under the head and these are difficult to get a spanner under the head.
They are coach head bolts. Smooth on top with no groove for a screwdriver…tight as…I’ve tried gripping with a pair of pliers at either end but that didn’t work…so I have been spraying with WD40 every couple of days, hoping it will soak in…
Dinetta said:
roughbarked said:
Have you tried with a spanner on each end of the bolts or are they coach head bolts? ie; coach head have a convex smooth head with the square under the head and these are difficult to get a spanner under the head.
They are coach head bolts. Smooth on top with no groove for a screwdriver…tight as…I’ve tried gripping with a pair of pliers at either end but that didn’t work…so I have been spraying with WD40 every couple of days, hoping it will soak in…
You only need small amounts of WD40 on the actual thread. Allow to soak in and reapply. Coach head bolts make it more difficult. The easiest answer is to take the angle grinder and cut the nuts off. Then the bolt can be tapped out relatively easily. Of course you will need four new bolts.
You make it sound violent chuckle
Yes I think I will have to cut off the nuts and replace the bolts…there are only two bolts…so now I get to learn how to operate the angle grinder…
Dinetta said:
You make it sound violent chuckleYes I think I will have to cut off the nuts and replace the bolts…there are only two bolts…so now I get to learn how to operate the angle grinder…
There are other alternatives.
One can use a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt and a spanner on the nut. Lengths of pipe may be added to increase the leverage potential. If you’ve grabbed the end of the thread of the bolt in the vice grips to assist starting the nut coming undone, then you will need to use a hacksaw to cut the ruined thread off the end of the bolt so that the nut can come all the way off. When cutting threads, it is advisable to run a file around the burred part so that this doesn’t ruin the nut as it comes past.
Another alternative is in the nature of the coach head bolt but this depends upon the structural stability of the beam the bolt goes through. Each coach head bolt has a square under the convex head. This is normally designed to lock the bolt through a wooden beam but if the beam is metal then a square should have been cut to drop the head of the bolt in. This actually should mean that the wheelballow handle is the spanner on the other end of the bolt. However it does depend on whether the wood is rotten or the metal is rusty or indeed if the manufacturer was lazy and simply banged the square through a round hole in the beginning.
Thanks RoughBarked…I’ll have a look in a little while…need to buy some woof tucker, big brown eyes get on your nerves after a while..but I’ll take the pliers down then and see how it goes…
I’ve just had an argument with P…some window frames were the perfect fit when installed, but now drag on the sill…“some turkey” as P puts it has chiselled the sill until the windows can slide along…I think this is the best solution…however P says I should plane under the window frame instead….
My point of view is that these frames are not available, or not easily available, any more and should not be touched, and therefore it makes sense to chisel a few mm out of the window sill, as the window sill can always be replaced. P said that the window sill is replaced with a great deal of bother, frames and such, as it is part of the building of the house…he says that that’s what a carpenter would do, and spoke of doors as an analogy…you would plane under the door (we’re talking VJ pine doors here) and not chisel the floor…but I don’t think that’s a good comparison…of course you would plane under the door…
Dinetta said:
I’ve just had an argument with P…some window frames were the perfect fit when installed, but now drag on the sill…“some turkey” as P puts it has chiselled the sill until the windows can slide along…I think this is the best solution…however P says I should plane under the window frame instead….My point of view is that these frames are not available, or not easily available, any more and should not be touched, and therefore it makes sense to chisel a few mm out of the window sill, as the window sill can always be replaced. P said that the window sill is replaced with a great deal of bother, frames and such, as it is part of the building of the house…he says that that’s what a carpenter would do, and spoke of doors as an analogy…you would plane under the door (we’re talking VJ pine doors here) and not chisel the floor…but I don’t think that’s a good comparison…of course you would plane under the door…
Well I wouldn’t argue too much with P’s argument. He is correct. The sash window frame can be removed planed and refitted without major work. Planing the sill requires the whole window frame (which is indeed part of the wall) to be removed so that the work can be done properly.
Dinetta said:
I’ve just had an argument with P…some window frames were the perfect fit when installed, but now drag on the sill…“some turkey” as P puts it has chiselled the sill until the windows can slide along…I think this is the best solution…however P says I should plane under the window frame instead….of course you would plane under the door…
Some turkey is an apt description.. as chiselling the sill will only increase the drag as well as make it look ugly.
Of course you will plane under the door(sash) of the window as it is the same as a door in a door jamb. You wouldn’t chisel the floor.
Now as to all wood bearing on wood instances, the surfaces must be lubricated or they will tend to bind. This is particularly the case in the instance of wooden drawer runners. Now the best lubricant is bees wax though there was a question on who wants to be a millionaire about what the product known as Dubbin is used to restore and condition. To which the answer was clearly leather but there was an additional choice of furniture which I could argue is also an obvious use though not actually the advertised intended use for the product. Dubbin not only softens and conditions your shoe leather but it is also the perfect choice for fixing sticky wooden parts that rub on each other that can easily be in your laundry cupboard already.
So I have to buy myself a plane…wood plane that is…I don’t see how the windows can be removed, they look built-in to me…thanks for your response RoughBarked…
Dinetta said:
So I have to buy myself a plane…wood plane that is…I don’t see how the windows can be removed, they look built-in to me…thanks for your response RoughBarked…
Have you heard of sandpaper and sanders?
Got both, RoughBarked…I had a look at the mm needed to remove, need to measure it, about 3 – 5 mm…
I asked P about removing the windows and he said he’s looked at that … normally they’d be screwed in but in this case they aren’t…so can’t be removed…
Dinetta said:
Got both, RoughBarked…I had a look at the mm needed to remove, need to measure it, about 3 – 5 mm…I asked P about removing the windows and he said he’s looked at that … normally they’d be screwed in but in this case they aren’t…so can’t be removed…
As with everything. They went in, so they can come out. The trick always is, first to find out how they went in.
Both the folk who put them in are long gone…Dad went to his reward 25 years ago and the builder who was “helping” him is gone too…
Definitely not screws, they have flat heads…I’ll see if I can get a picture somehow, P has a new camera as his last one died of fair wear and tear and too much $$$ to repair…oooh was that a rhyme?
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Dinetta said:
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Yes. Washing it first is always a good idea. Vinegar is good too. I wouldn’t use coarse salt as that is going to possibly cause unnecessary scratching.
Dinetta said:
Both the folk who put them in are long gone…Dad went to his reward 25 years ago and the builder who was “helping” him is gone too…Definitely not screws, they have flat heads…I’ll see if I can get a picture somehow, P has a new camera as his last one died of fair wear and tear and too much $$$ to repair…oooh was that a rhyme?
Dinetta said:
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Isn’t it.. salt and vinegar, or something? I’m sure salt was in the cleaning mix for copper. Or am I just hungry…
Happy Potter said:
Dinetta said:
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Isn’t it.. salt and vinegar, or something? I’m sure salt was in the cleaning mix for copper. Or am I just hungry…
salt, with either vinegar or lemon juice, yes.
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Yes. Washing it first is always a good idea. Vinegar is good too. I wouldn’t use coarse salt as that is going to possibly cause unnecessary scratching.
Fine salt? I use rock sea salt for everything but could easily buy a pack of fine salt, if required…
Dinetta said:
roughbarked said:
Dinetta said:
Cleaning Copper…any ideas? It’s a shade type thing for over the fireplace at the old place, I’m very sure it is not varnished copper as it comes up as it should in a small test area that I’m working on…I have read on the internet and the most recommended seems to be lemon halves stuck into salt…this is a piece of copper about 1.25 metres long and about 8 inches wide…quite the area to be cleaned…I’m thinking I should wash it with detergent in hot water first, get rid of the smoke grime…
Yes. Washing it first is always a good idea. Vinegar is good too. I wouldn’t use coarse salt as that is going to possibly cause unnecessary scratching.
Fine salt? I use rock sea salt for everything but could easily buy a pack of fine salt, if required…
Doesn’t really matter once it is all dissolved. I was merely mentioning that so as to bring that thought to the fore.
roughbarked said:
Doesn’t really matter once it is all dissolved. I was merely mentioning that so as to bring that thought to the fore.
Thanks, appreciated…