Usually if the paths are in, the sheds built, a few taps installed, a compost bin and maybe some garden edging and windbreak trees in place, you can see the future garden with your imagination, and are feeling well pleased. You should now look at creating fertile soil.
The fertility of the soil is in two parts – the dead bit and the living bit. The dead bit is the minerals – sand, clay, rock, loam, calcium, magnesium, boron and all those chemical elements. The living bit is the worms, grubs, burrowing critters, microscopic mites, fungi etc. The living bits add to fertility by burrowing, pooing and leaving their remains behind on death. The living soil is the reason you need to think twice about using any poisons or artificial fertilisers.
Creating good soil is not rocket science. I just dump 10cm of manure and another ten centimeters of mulch on the soil each and every year. Provided there is sufficient moisture, your soil will gradually become a composty worm farm. I have no problems with no-dig, hot composting, worm farms, bio-dynamic preparations, mineral mixes, double dig, seaweed, chook poo, pigeon poo, dynamic lifter, green manure or any organic method of enriching the soil. The only thing you must do is put back more fertility then your plants take out. Do that, and every year your soil will get better.
You can spend a lot or a little money. A lot of money will be quicker, but don’t be surprised if someone says ‘you would have paid less if you had bought your vegetables/flowers from a shop’.
With limited resources the soil starts to be excellent in the third year. By that time you are adding homegrown compost from your own green waste.
The principal advantage of homegrown food is freshness – but its late and I’m in no hurry to finish – so more later.