http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/documents/Biosecurity_EnvironmentalPests/IPA-Leucaena-PP85.pdf

I want to do the Cut’n‘Paint method on those that I can’t pull up, especially those that have escaped to the paddock…

We have Grazco® and access to diesel…

Can anybody tell me what to do, as in cutting down the tree/sapling, what to apply the poison with (no sprays please) and best time to do this? I might be doing it on my own, particularly if Sonny JIm gets employment…

Dinetta said:

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/documents/Biosecurity_EnvironmentalPests/IPA-Leucaena-PP85.pdf

I want to do the Cut’n‘Paint method on those that I can’t pull up, especially those that have escaped to the paddock…

We have Grazco® and access to diesel…

Can anybody tell me what to do, as in cutting down the tree/sapling, what to apply the poison with (no sprays please) and best time to do this? I might be doing it on my own, particularly if Sonny JIm gets employment…

The best go is to cut them near ground level as you can with a saw and paint glyphoste on the Cambium layer or indeed across the whole cut.. This will ensure that it never comes back.. I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

Painting them with diesel is the similar thing but diesel does not biodegrade as well.

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/documents/Biosecurity_EnvironmentalPests/IPA-Leucaena-PP85.pdf

I want to do the Cut’n‘Paint method on those that I can’t pull up, especially those that have escaped to the paddock…

We have Grazco® and access to diesel…

Can anybody tell me what to do, as in cutting down the tree/sapling, what to apply the poison with (no sprays please) and best time to do this? I might be doing it on my own, particularly if Sonny JIm gets employment…

The best go is to cut them near ground level as you can with a saw and paint glyphoste on the Cambium layer or indeed across the whole cut.. This will ensure that it never comes back.. I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

Painting them with diesel is the similar thing but diesel does not biodegrade as well.

Does glyphoste have a commercial name? And in the article, it suggests combining the poison with diesel…why would this be?

I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

I really must impose on somebody and ask for them to put up some pictures I have taken of our thickets…there is really only about 3 biggish trees (and two stumps) and the rest are saplings…the pictures will give a better idea of the volume of leucaena involved…if I do half an hour a day I figure I could get them under control within a month…some days I wouldn’t be working on them, of course…

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/documents/Biosecurity_EnvironmentalPests/IPA-Leucaena-PP85.pdf

I want to do the Cut’n‘Paint method on those that I can’t pull up, especially those that have escaped to the paddock…

We have Grazco® and access to diesel…

Can anybody tell me what to do, as in cutting down the tree/sapling, what to apply the poison with (no sprays please) and best time to do this? I might be doing it on my own, particularly if Sonny JIm gets employment…

The best go is to cut them near ground level as you can with a saw and paint glyphoste on the Cambium layer or indeed across the whole cut.. This will ensure that it never comes back.. I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

Painting them with diesel is the similar thing but diesel does not biodegrade as well.

Does glyphoste have a commercial name? And in the article, it suggests combining the poison with diesel…why would this be?

Glyphosate = Roundup

Diesel is -a-for-a-tha-bettera-da-kill. morea stronga …

But it isn’t essential at all.
mix roundup 50/50 with water .. you’ll only need a paintbrush and a tiny amount of the chemical mix in the bottom of a jam tin. Paint all your stumps. even if you leave a branch below the cut.. with leaves on.. you shall be able to have the satisfaction of watching it die.

Dinetta said:

I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

I really must impose on somebody and ask for them to put up some pictures I have taken of our thickets…there is really only about 3 biggish trees (and two stumps) and the rest are saplings…the pictures will give a better idea of the volume of leucaena involved…if I do half an hour a day I figure I could get them under control within a month…some days I wouldn’t be working on them, of course…

Simply an esimate of acreage would be good enough.

In my instance mentione above it was the remnants of anative pant nursery where some two or thyree thousand Eucalypts had grown out of tubes and through foam boxes .. through carpets and sheets of tin.. then broadened their girth to average 150 mm and greater. It wasn’t an easy job but it only took a few days and I was not long out of hospital with three broken vertebrae and two ribs.

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

I have doug around trees and cut them below ground level applied this technique and recovered them a day later.. prepared and sown seed lawn on top.. worked fine.

I really must impose on somebody and ask for them to put up some pictures I have taken of our thickets…there is really only about 3 biggish trees (and two stumps) and the rest are saplings…the pictures will give a better idea of the volume of leucaena involved…if I do half an hour a day I figure I could get them under control within a month…some days I wouldn’t be working on them, of course…

Simply an esimate of acreage would be good enough.

In my instance mentione above it was the remnants of anative pant nursery where some two or thyree thousand Eucalypts had grown out of tubes and through foam boxes .. through carpets and sheets of tin.. then broadened their girth to average 150 mm and greater. It wasn’t an easy job but it only took a few days and I was not long out of hospital with three broken vertebrae and two ribs.

oooookayyyyy…maybe my thickets are miniscule after all…half an acre? a hundred or so of the saplings, which seems a lot to me….suddenly the job isn’t so big after all, after reading the above…all my bones are intact … I thankfully…touch wood…I guess the main thing is just to get started…

I guess the main thing is just to get started…

>

Procrastination.inc

roughbarked said:

I guess the main thing is just to get started…

>

Procrastination.inc

absolutely!

With the chainsaw, my boys have told me to “do the chain oil” before I use it, so I’ll have to wait for Sonny Jim to come back and elaborate…the boyz explain things so much better than Mr D… and they’ll tell me a couple of times without getting impatient…with the different machines, if I don’t use them for 6 months, I forget how each one starts…I can do the fuel mixes but the lads like doing it so why argue?

Is Grazo® the same stuff as Roundup®?

Dinetta said:

With the chainsaw, my boys have told me to “do the chain oil” before I use it, so I’ll have to wait for Sonny Jim to come back and elaborate…the boyz explain things so much better than Mr D… and they’ll tell me a couple of times without getting impatient…with the different machines, if I don’t use them for 6 months, I forget how each one starts…I can do the fuel mixes but the lads like doing it so why argue?

Is Grazo® the same stuff as Roundup®?

I wouldn’t be chucking poison in the chain oil.. as chain oil is usually good enough anyway on many trees and chemicals in the oil may damage the bar and chain plus.. it sprays eveywhere when you rev it up.

***With Dow AgroSciences’ recent launch of PastureGard™ herbicide, it introduced the new active ingredient fluroxypyr to rangeland and pasture applications. Surmount herbicide extends that introduction by teaming fluroxypyr with the active ingredient in Grazon® P+D herbicide (picloram).

Fluroxypyr enhances the power of picloram on several especially troublesome weeds.***

^ *not the same as glyphosate no. In fact it will likely stop you growing new tree and shrubs.

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

With the chainsaw, my boys have told me to “do the chain oil” before I use it, so I’ll have to wait for Sonny Jim to come back and elaborate…the boyz explain things so much better than Mr D… and they’ll tell me a couple of times without getting impatient…with the different machines, if I don’t use them for 6 months, I forget how each one starts…I can do the fuel mixes but the lads like doing it so why argue?

Is Grazo® the same stuff as Roundup®?

I wouldn’t be chucking poison in the chain oil.. as chain oil is usually good enough anyway on many trees and chemicals in the oil may damage the bar and chain plus.. it sprays eveywhere when you rev it up.

No, I’m not speaking of adding poison to the chain oil (do people really do that?) …I was just explaining why I don’t just pick up the chainsaw and go…need the nod from the boyz first…it took me so many years to get that chainsaw and I don’t want to break it…

Very good info re Grazo®…thank you very much for all the information on this topic…Roundup® it is then, as I wish to get a native shrubbery going again in one corner…

Chainsaws were designed to cut green wood .. as long as you stick to that premise.. the chainaw should last a very long time.

make sure you clean the area you want to cu before you do it… but if they are only saplings and you have an axe in hand why choose a mechanical saw to increase the risk of losing a limb?

roughbarked said:

Chainsaws were designed to cut green wood .. as long as you stick to that premise.. the chainaw should last a very long time.

make sure you clean the area you want to cu before you do it… but if they are only saplings and you have an axe in hand why choose a mechanical saw to increase the risk of losing a limb?

(A) axes need handles
(b) axes are blunt

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Chainsaws were designed to cut green wood .. as long as you stick to that premise.. the chainaw should last a very long time.

make sure you clean the area you want to cu before you do it… but if they are only saplings and you have an axe in hand why choose a mechanical saw to increase the risk of losing a limb?

(A) axes need handles
(b) axes are blunt

Well fix it dear henry dear henry dear henry.. ;)

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Chainsaws were designed to cut green wood .. as long as you stick to that premise.. the chainaw should last a very long time.

make sure you clean the area you want to cu before you do it… but if they are only saplings and you have an axe in hand why choose a mechanical saw to increase the risk of losing a limb?

(A) axes need handles
(b) axes are blunt

Well fix it dear henry dear henry dear henry.. ;)

LOL!

That’s what I’ve got two teen-aged sons for…

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Dinetta said:

roughbarked said:

Chainsaws were designed to cut green wood .. as long as you stick to that premise.. the chainaw should last a very long time.

make sure you clean the area you want to cu before you do it… but if they are only saplings and you have an axe in hand why choose a mechanical saw to increase the risk of losing a limb?

(A) axes need handles
(b) axes are blunt

Well fix it dear henry dear henry dear henry.. ;)

LOL!

That’s what I’ve got two teen-aged sons for…

I tried that.. they both ran away from home .. One as far as Norway. ;)

What’s the difference between Zero and Roundup?

I looked in Mitre 10 today, there is Roundup spray and Zero Spray, and also available was Zero woody weed killer that can be painted on, as you suggest.

I want to avoid sprays. I have enough trouble with the cotton defoliant killing my wanted trees without adding my own bit of herbicide.

Can Grazco be painted on? I’d like to get rid of it somehow.

Basically I’m asking if the stuff is sprayable, can I not spray it and just paint it on the cut?

Hi RoughBarked, I didn’t see you there…

but I really have to go as I have promised the dawg that I will get up early and take her for a walk tomorrow morning.

Ciao

Dinetta said:

What’s the difference between Zero and Roundup?

I looked in Mitre 10 today, there is Roundup spray and Zero Spray, and also available was Zero woody weed killer that can be painted on, as you suggest.

I want to avoid sprays. I have enough trouble with the cotton defoliant killing my wanted trees without adding my own bit of herbicide.

Can Grazco be painted on? I’d like to get rid of it somehow.

Basically I’m asking if the stuff is sprayable, can I not spray it and just paint it on the cut?

As far as zero and roundup go I think Zero is just a more diluted version from memory…well weaker at least. I don’t know Grazco

AnneS said:

Dinetta said:

What’s the difference between Zero and Roundup?

I looked in Mitre 10 today, there is Roundup spray and Zero Spray, and also available was Zero woody weed killer that can be painted on, as you suggest.

I want to avoid sprays. I have enough trouble with the cotton defoliant killing my wanted trees without adding my own bit of herbicide.

Can Grazco be painted on? I’d like to get rid of it somehow.

Basically I’m asking if the stuff is sprayable, can I not spray it and just paint it on the cut?

As far as zero and roundup go I think Zero is just a more diluted version from memory…well weaker at least. I don’t know Grazco

glyphosate was registered to Monasnto as Roundup but the patent ran out so that other companies could use the name glyphosate.

Zero is a diluted form yes.

grazco may or may not be painted on.. I cannot forsee why it couldn’t at the moment .. but I know little about things that I already decide are not what I need to know about. I have no idea whether it is systemic or not. Google will tell if one looks long enough.

Picloram is a systemic herbicide used to control deeply rooted herbaceous weeds and woody plants in rights-of-ways, forestry, rangelands, pastures, and small grains. It is manufactured by DowElanco.

Otherwise known as Grazon

So.. yes you can paint it on.. as to whether it needs diesel mixed with it.. I doubt it.