Date: 23/02/2008 20:49:01
From: Lucky1
ID: 3793
Subject: Crop rotation beds

Bed 1

Then broad beans with later planting of peas, climbing beans, french beans. As legumes are harvested replace with cagbages, caulies broccoli & sprouts.

Bed 2

root crops, beetroot, carrots, parsnips, onions, garlic & leeks. To avoid forking of roots….no extra ferts to be added.

Bed 3
sweetcorn, pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers. Be generous with fert trough out the season.,

bed 4

green manure…… then tomatoes, capsicums, eggplants….. then lime ready for the legumes.

That is from Uncle Pete’s book The Practical Australian Gardener….

Hope this helps anyone who needs it.

With a 2 bed rotate….. just don’t plant it in the same area the following year. Even by missing the same spot for 1 season you are breaking the disease hold in your garden…… the higher the bed rotation amount…. the higher chance there is of not developing a disease in your soil.

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Date: 23/02/2008 20:50:13
From: Lucky1
ID: 3794
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

Think I’ll take this book with me on Friday and see if I can’t get Uncle Pete to sign it………. wish me luck as every other stalker will be out for him too…..

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Date: 23/02/2008 20:53:51
From: bluegreen
ID: 3795
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

Lucky1 said:


Think I’ll take this book with me on Friday and see if I can’t get Uncle Pete to sign it………. wish me luck as every other stalker will be out for him too…..

He’ll sign it for sure. They will have a time when he will be available for autographs. There’ll be a queue but worth it. Make sure you have your camera and you may get a photo with him like I did, which I then took back a couple of years later and he signed it. :D

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Date: 23/02/2008 20:57:13
From: Lucky1
ID: 3797
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

bluegreen said:


Lucky1 said:

Think I’ll take this book with me on Friday and see if I can’t get Uncle Pete to sign it………. wish me luck as every other stalker will be out for him too…..

He’ll sign it for sure. They will have a time when he will be available for autographs. There’ll be a queue but worth it. Make sure you have your camera and you may get a photo with him like I did, which I then took back a couple of years later and he signed it. :D

I’m taking my big 512 MB card and 2 sets of charged batteries………… I have printed off info of what is on and where………. Gosh wonder if I’ll sleep Thursday night????

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Date: 24/02/2008 09:38:02
From: pepper
ID: 3829
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

i can see why people are calling in complicated. pete follows toms with legumes here – yet the patch shows bed 3/4 following toms with corn and pumpkin.

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Date: 24/02/2008 09:39:57
From: pepper
ID: 3830
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

He’ll sign it for sure. They will have a time when he will be available for autographs. There’ll be a queue but worth it. Make sure you have your camera and you may get a photo with him like I did, which I then took back a couple of years later and he signed it.
————
groupies LOL
- i wander if sophie wants her shoes shinned – grovel.

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Date: 24/02/2008 09:48:47
From: Happy Potter
ID: 3833
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

pepper said:


i can see why people are calling in complicated. pete follows toms with legumes here – yet the patch shows bed 3/4 following toms with corn and pumpkin.

Yep Pepe, the more I read the more confused I get.

It’s Pete’s bed system I have been reading up on , but looking up other’s too, and they are all different.
I will draw up a small box grid thingo and print it and add what I have growing there atm, then change it for the next season’s.

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Date: 24/02/2008 10:02:41
From: pepper
ID: 3836
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

Yep Pepe, the more I read the more confused I get.
———
my 4 bed rotation is-

- toms (caps, basil, eggplant, parsley)
- onions (leeks, garlic)
- corn (beans, pumpkin)
- the rest ( lettuce, spinach)

my beans, carrots, cueys, climbing peas,radish etc are sort of rotated on the trelissed beds.
no room for spuds or melons so they go elsewhere.
and perenials – rhubarb, strawbs, berries etc go elsewhere.
and i like to mix a few flowers in with veges to attract bees and detract pests.
i have memorised it but its not so simple that i can stick to it religiously.

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Date: 24/02/2008 10:46:01
From: Lucky1
ID: 3839
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

pepper said:


He’ll sign it for sure. They will have a time when he will be available for autographs. There’ll be a queue but worth it. Make sure you have your camera and you may get a photo with him like I did, which I then took back a couple of years later and he signed it.
————
groupies LOL
- i wander if sophie wants her shoes shinned – grovel.

Oh you sweet talker you;)

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Date: 24/02/2008 16:13:35
From: pepper
ID: 3843
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

Sophie has said in the ‘Sunday Mail’ that in Australia autumn (not spring) is the best time for planting.
Her reasoning is that lots of plants go dormant in the aussie summer whereas in europe they are dormant over winter in the snows.
she’s referring to the native plants i guess.

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Date: 24/02/2008 16:34:29
From: bluegreen
ID: 3844
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

pepper said:


Sophie has said in the ‘Sunday Mail’ that in Australia autumn (not spring) is the best time for planting.
Her reasoning is that lots of plants go dormant in the aussie summer whereas in europe they are dormant over winter in the snows.
she’s referring to the native plants i guess.

I have heard that about native plants – except for in the areas that snow I suppose…

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Date: 24/02/2008 16:48:38
From: pepper
ID: 3845
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

g’day BG
her article is a bit thin on names – she only says tropical plants should be excluded – and learn more at the expo !
her theory is to plant in early autumn and then collect seed in spring. this ties in with jerry’s seed collection idea on GA this week. so i presume she is actually thinking that plants will acclimatise over a period of years.

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Date: 24/02/2008 16:54:52
From: bluegreen
ID: 3846
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

there are 2 things to consider about crop rotation:

First is to provide as big a time gap as possible between like crops to break disease cycles, and second is to maximise the use of available nutrient in the soil.

So one year you enrich your bed with lots of manures etc. and plant hungry plants like leafy veg. The next year you might plant tomatoes or something that doesn’t need so much nitrogen but still likes a rich soil. Following that you might grow root vegetables that don’t want a rich soil. After that you could grow legumes that will start putting nitrogen back into the soil for a year of leafy veg. and so the cycle goes.

I think though that it only works well with a minimum of 4 beds and you are able to grow (and eat) a diverse range of crops.

For myself I really only have 2 beds and in spring/summer I mainly grow tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum (which are all related) with maybe one zucchini plant and some beans. Autumn/winter is restricted to maybe silverbeet, kale, leeks and garlic. I prefer to plant something that I can get continuous picking from rather that something like corn that seems to need to be picked all at once. So I just try and mix stuff up and not put things in the same spot the following year.

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Date: 24/02/2008 16:56:56
From: bluegreen
ID: 3847
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

pepper said:


her theory is to plant in early autumn and then collect seed in spring. this ties in with jerry’s seed collection idea on GA this week. so i presume she is actually thinking that plants will acclimatise over a period of years.

certainly in SA it might be the way to go due to your hot dry summers where everything struggles.

Like in Australia cyclamens are active in winter and dormant in summer, but in the US it is the other way around.

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Date: 24/02/2008 17:26:19
From: Lucky1
ID: 3848
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

I think though that it only works well with a minimum of 4 beds and you are able to grow (and eat) a diverse range of crops.

For myself I really only have 2 beds and in spring/summer I mainly grow tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum (which are all related) with maybe one zucchini plant and some beans. Autumn/winter is restricted to maybe silverbeet, kale, leeks and garlic. I prefer to plant something that I can get continuous picking from rather that something like corn that seems to need to be picked all at once. So I just try and mix stuff up and not put things in the same spot the following year.
———————————————————————————-
Yeah I am the same as BG…….. I don’t actually have 4 beds….. I do try and make new beds and paths different sizes, depending on what I am growing.

I do keep notes (photos) of what I grew where. That way I am rotating them in some way.

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Date: 24/02/2008 17:27:26
From: pepper
ID: 3849
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

The choice of winter crops is also influenced by what grows easiest in your area. In the frosty Adelaide hills we found that brussel sprouts grew to a metre high and you could harvest the little cabbage like sprouts over a long period.
We therefore learnt to use them in cooking. They are excellent in minnestoni – a rich soup for a cold winters night. They also steam well in a saucepan with butter and pepper and then cheese added at the end when they are soft.

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Date: 24/02/2008 17:35:22
From: pepper
ID: 3850
Subject: re: Crop rotation beds

I do keep notes (photos) of what I grew where. That way I am rotating them in some way.
—-
i leave a corn stalk in until next spring – so long as i know that rotation is anticlockwise i know where the rest grow. i disagree that corn is an all at once crop. if the cob is a bit overripe you can run a knife down it and use it as kernels in stir fry or mexican.
why am i talking of food ? – must be dindin time.

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